Pyro & Beginner...?

I have just start a LF-photography (I buy Wista 8x10). I think to

develope negatives in trays and use VC-paper in contact prints.

Any reason why not start with Pyro? Or do I just use D-76? I also

want to use negatives in future with alternative prints (PT/PD). Film

is Tri-X 320 (4164). Jari

I don't use pyro myself, Jari, so I may not be a good judge here. But, it would seem to me that you might be better served by getting acquainted with LF using conventional chemistry first. (You'll have a larger base of people who can assist you through any problems you might encounter.) Then, once you have your LF techniques at a comfortable level, explore pyro and other alternative processes.

Why not? You might as well go for it. Just remember that you need to wear plastic gloves (if you're developing in trays) and mix the developer immediately before using it. Good luck.

If you can find a copy of "The Book of Pyro", by Gordon Hutchings, you will have a good start for using pyro developers. His instructions are quite complete. Pyro developers (including the author's formula, PMK)are a little different from ordinary developers, but are easily usable if you learn how. That said, it's hard to go wrong with D-76. Best of luck!

Pyrocatechol HD seems to be one of the easiest and cheapest to use. Check it out at www.unblinkingeye.com

I would think that it would be the very best decision that you made to begin with a Pyro developer. If you bought the 8X10 to make fine prints, If I were you, I would begin by using either the ABC Pyro or the Pyrocat HD formulations and contact print on Azo in Amidol if you want the very best in fine prints. There is a lot of information regarding the developers, the process, etc on michaelandpaula.com and also the unblinkingeye.com sites. My experience indicates to me that it is never wise to "sneak up on a matter"...instead engage the matter, learn and then you will make fine prints.

If you hope to work in Pt/Pd in the future, by all means start out

using pyro. A negative developed to a high contrast level in PMK

pyro will print beautifully in platinum, and also will print well on

variable contrast silver paper or on a soft grade of standard,

graded, silver paper. As long as you use reasonable care and

always wear gloves tray development in pyro is simple and easy

and delivers negatives of unsurpassed quality. Negatives

developed in standard HQ developers (D76, HC110, etc) for

printing in silver will be too low in contrast to print successfully in

Pt/Pd.

I don't use pyro, but remember that for about 50 years that was the most popular developer. If you want to start with pyro, there's no reason not to. Just read up on the proper precautions and go for it.

I've used it a couple times but wasn't happy with the infrared negatives as they didn't quite have the highlight 'glow', though I was able to print them. Normal negs look great though.

Also, the 2 separate chemicals are stable for 10 years.

I got the chemicals and Gordon Hutchings book from 'Photographers Formulary' in Montana. 1-800-922-5255

I started Black and White photography just about a year and a

half ago. I used a 4x5 camera and developed negatives in pyro.

So, far I have never used any other developer. That may show

you that it is not that hard to use and the benefits are to many to

avoid it. You will need a scale to mix your own chemistry. Check

michaelandpaula.com for formulas and procedures. All I

learned, I learned from their forum. Once you get the basics your

prints will glow!

Do not come back and complain about your addiction to

photography and your obsession with quality. There is no

escape from that. Enjoy

Jari,

 

I just started doing black & white this year in January with PMK Pyro (4x5 and 35mm). I have had not trouble with the PMK and find it very easy to use now. As stated in an earlier post, get the Book of Pyro to read first. This will explain how the Pyro works on film, possible trouble you may have and solutions to any problems you may find along the way. It really does help. I bought PMK Pyro already mixed (kits cost about USD $25.00 for enough to make 50L.) so distilled water is all I had to buy to start.

 

Tri-x needs to run at asa 250 because Pyro affects film speed for shadow values. Use distilled water for your developing or times will vary because of impurities in your tap water, you don't need it for the rest of the process. Wear gloves. Remember, agitation cycles are critical with this developer. If you use the recommended 15 seconds, there are never any problems.

 

I know you will enjoy seeing the first negative you print. A great combination is Efke 25 with PMK. There is no grain and tones are rich and full.