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Zootman

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  1. I had Robert Decker repair an F2 Dp1 finder a number of years ago and it is still going strong.
  2. Impressive! I enjoyed some of your other shots as well. Thanks for the link. It is a great reminder that simple cameras can produce marvelous pictures when they are in the right hands!
  3. I had an FM repaired by http://www.garryscamera.com/index.html and was happy with the results. He is extremely reasonable. It would be about $65 to have him repair and cla it.
  4. I have never shot an FA. Even though I love to shoot my F2SB there are times when aperture priority is nice. The F3 feels great in my hand, but I prefer the metering on the Fe2, so the Fe2 gets my vote.
  5. Nikon F3 with 50 1.8 Kentmere 400 in Tmax Dev. Scanned on V500
  6. Konica T3 I just picked up last week with a 50 1.4 lens. This is a scan of a silver print. Old APX 100 in Rodinal
  7. I appreciate your report on this lens and would enjoy more as you have opportunity. The only downside is that your skill as a photographer (I have long enjoyed your black and whites) makes some of us think we could do that if we just had that lens! SCL is right, the prices will go up! Thank you for sharing.
  8. I greatly enjoyed Gene's posts. I would share them with my wife as they were too good to enjoy alone.
  9. I used a lunapro for a long time and still have it, but in recent years I have primarily used a Gossen Digiflash. It does give me basic flash metering when I occasionally need it, and it is small so it doesn't take up much room in a camera bag or a pocket. Here is a link to the newer version of it: Gossen Digiflash Light Meter 2 GO 4007-2 B&H Photo Video
  10. Agreed, I was just responding to his post in which he said that was the purpose of prewash.
  11. Some people do a water pre-wash, but it's value is debated. You definitely don't do it to make the film stick together, that would prevent the developer and fixer from working.
  12. <p>Don,<br> I think the difference is that I was using Tmax 100. The lower speed would age a little better. You might try increasing your exposure a little bit and see if that helps with the grain. I have the advantage of doing my own developing instead of sending to a lab, but I really just used standard times, so no great secrets there.</p>
  13. <p>I have been using some Tmax 100 that expired in 1992 and have been surprised at the results. I have exposed and developed it normally in D76 1+1. Here is a thread with a few shots I took with it http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00e2op</p>
  14. Is your stop, fixer, and wash all about the same temperature? They don't need to be as precise as the developer, but it is good if they don't vary more than about 5 degrees. The only time I have had orange peal was for that reason.
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