zoltan_arva_toth

Thanks everyone for your contribution.

Thanks Mike - it's [mostly] the building I was unsure of too. I think I originally composed it into the frame as a counterpoint to the mountain. However the way I cropped it looks almost random and the whole thing is just too brightly lit - as you say, it's more of a distraction than a useful element of the composition.

Title says it all, really. I took this photograph almost 10 years ago, on a trip to Italy. Ricoh TLS 401, Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar 50mm f:1.8, Kodak ColorPlus 200. I cannot, for the life of me, decide if this pic is any more than a holiday snap. It sure takes me down memory lane. But does it look any good to you guys?

Thank you all for your valuable feedback!

I have an image that I have cropped in two different ways and cannot, for the life of me, decide which one works better. The tonal reduction to almost pure black and white is intentional. It's just the cropping / framing / composition I can't make up my mind on. Version 1: Version 2:

Thank you both - I will tape the edges of the door and try a different lab.

I have a Pentacon Six, and I must say when everything "clicks" - pun not intended -, it produces fantastic results in tandem with its Carl Zeiss Jena Biometar 80mm f/2.8 MC standard lens, like these: However, some frames are affected by what seems to be light leaks. Exhibit A (cropped to 645): And here's the full frame, with the problem intentionally exaggerated so that it's easier to see: Do you think this is a light leak? Or is it a development/lab issue? As I've said, this is something that affects some frames and not others - but there always seem to be 2-3-4 affected frames per roll.

Morning at the Railway Station Pentacon Six + Biometar 80mm f/2.8 Kodak Ektar 100 Cropped to portrait orientation and corrected for a (slight) perspective distortion.

<p>Some folks swear by the following workflow: scan colour negatives as 16-bit/channel linear TIFFs with VueScan --> open them in Photoshop --> use the ColorPerfect plugin from CF Systems to get perfect colours. Of course you need Photoshop for this, and you also have to buy the plugin. Version 2.21 is recommended for Photoshop CC.</p>

<p>These scans are plain horrible - try another scanning service. (Of course this doesn't mean everything's fine with the film itself - look at the negative and see if it looks "thin." But really, the artifacts in these scans are truly unnatural.)</p> <p>For reference, this is what a half-decent scan of ISO 400/27° film (Kodak Portra 400) looks like when downsampled to 1600 pixels wide:<br /> <a href="

<p>Now that you posted an image of the film itself, it's clear that the frames are indeed blank/unexposed rather than overexposed. Could be a faulty shutter/aperture mechanism, or an issue with film winding.</p>

<p>The 9000F is a flatbed scanner so you cannot expect miracles from it.<br /> This is one of my better Kodak Portra 400 scans, made with a Plustek OpticFilm 8100 - which is a dedicated film scanner, although not a high-end one by any means (for one thing, it lacks adjustable focus):<br /> <a href="

<p>Might be overexposure. On a truly sunny day, an ISO 400/27° film needs to be exposed at 1/500 or maybe 1/250 sec at f/16, and an even faster shutter speed is needed for shooting at wider apertures. Your shutter speed was 1/60 which is way too slow for any aperture setting available on the lens you used. You likely gave the film too much exposure to light. (Note: overexposed slides are blank (thin/ washed out) and overexposed negatives are dense.</p>

<p>John,<br> well, it's unheated <em>and</em> uncooled - and while winters can be freezing cold, summers are usually hot.</p>