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zafar1

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  1. <p>When you are creating environment portrait, your choices are dictated by the environment. In this particular scene, even if you light the subject with flash, there is no way to light those dark buildings. So if you want to get a dramatic view of bridge in the background,<br> 1. Forget about including buildings in the frame (along with bridge properly exposed). <br> 2. Use flash light for lighting the model, however most likely you need to use high-speed sync so that you can slightly underexpose background for dramatic results. Using HSS means that your flash power is limited, so most likely a flash on camera will not properly illuminate the subject. So you need to put flash on a stand, move it closer to the model at about 45 degrees right or left) and use some sort of wireless sync to trigger. Properly done, you can get an image like this (or better)<br> https://i.ytimg.com/vi/uiXkgJ8xW2s/maxresdefault.jpg<br> 3. Place the subject against a dark background (building walls) and use back light to highlight the subject outline (e.g. hair). This will most likely overexpose bridge, but you will still get bridge lines which you can use for better composition. The trick is to choose a dark background, and let highlights go to town. You will just need fill flash in this case, which can come from external flash mounted on camera.<br> There are many ways to skin the cat, you don't have to have bridge properly exposed to have it adding to the picture. A good picture is not about proper exposure, it is how different elements work together.<br> That said, I will confess that while I can think about all of this sitting on my couch, I can't remember all of this when taking pictures (I am not a professional). That is why I shoot in raw (using cameras with better DR) and do some of the highlight pull-down and shadow push-ups in post.</p>
  2. <p>My head is spinning! I moved from Canon to Nikon a couple of years ago and never liked Nikon mount. For one thing my lenses wobble when standing on mount as I am changing them, happens everyday.</p> <p>Canon made the right decision of killing the old mount. With Nikon it is long term agony and for someone like me who does not have 20 years of history with Nikon, a diploma is needed to understand what works with what.</p>
  3. <blockquote> <p>Thanks for the sound input on this question. So, here's a logical follow up to it: is there a full-frame fast wide zoom for the D610 (or even the D800e) that compares by price, quality and range to Sigma's 18-35 f1.8 zoom for APS-C? Any brand?</p> </blockquote> <p>Why are you interested in 18-35 f/1.8? Usually people want wide aperture lens for low light or for Bokeh. In both cases a 24-70 f/2.8 on FF will be equivalent of 18-35 f/1.8 on APS-C (and will have more zoom range).</p> <p>Tamron 24-70 VC is supposed to be good and and closer in cost to Sigma 18-35.</p>
  4. zafar1

    Pacific Sunset

    Artist: Darin Basile www.daflye.net; Exposure Date: 2009:12:28 18:12:30; Make: Canon; Model: Canon EOS 5D; ExposureTime: 1/200 s; FNumber: f/5; ISOSpeedRatings: 800; ExposureProgram: Aperture priority; ExposureBiasValue: 4294967295/3; MeteringMode: Pattern; Flash: Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode; FocalLength: 135 mm;
  5. zafar1

    Inside the flower

    Copyright: © Zafar Kazmi;
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