wm._j._rentenbach

<p>The way I see it, it's one part stock and four parts of water. ......... I'm a photographer not a chemist and I dislike confusion (got enough to think about) so 40 ml stock A, 40 ml stock B and 400 ml water total of 480 ml is the way I calculate it for Pyrocat HD. Works for me.<br> For D76 one part stock and one part water .... 8 oz stock and 8 oz water. Always works for me.<br> Bill</p>

<p>TF 4 is plain old hypo (sodium thiosulfate) and keeps till exhausted. I dilute it 1:4 or 1 lb. per gallon of water if using anhydrous crystals, It's slower acting than TF5 (ammonium thiosulfate) and I Fix for about 10 minutes or till the film clears. I pour it back in the storage bottle and reuse it until after it starts becoming milky then dump it. It's safe to use and also used in swimming pool care. It's also quite inexpensive and easy to mix but has smell which some people object to which I personal don't mind at all. I usually wash for at 10 to 20 minutes then soak the film In a wetting agent for 30 seconds and hang to dry. clothes pins work fine top and bottom. Some, like me, will wipe the excess water off. This is how I've done it for at least 60 years. My old negatives are still fine without stains.<br> Bill</p>

<p>Camping light fluid is the same as lighter fluid. We used to buy It at gas stations during my youth at 35 cents a gallon, also was used as an inexpensive cleaning fluid. Can be pretty dangerous stuff but I still use it for cleaning and store it with care.</p> <p>Bill</p>

<p>I've tried scanning directly on the glass but the negative curl was pretty bad so I tried a glass to flatten it and got good results and that worked except for the newton rings it produced. Someone mentioned raising the film around the thickness of a nickel. That worked ok but a pain making and using a mask so I bought a negative carrier from Epson. <vbgrin> Worth it eh ? Anti Newton glass is hard to find and expensive but should work just fine to flatten negatives. I did not see any bluriness when I scanned with the anti newton glass . The only problem was the newton rings. I'm still looking for a way to make a film holder better than Epson and I'm getting close.<br> Bill</p>

<p>I thought this would be an interesting forum .... not so.... Probably won't be back, too much rudness !!</p>

<p>Hi j.<br> I've been reading the light farm and it's very interesting reading thanks for sending this information to me. I still wonder about how film manufactures can coat their film without causing the grains to clump. The old paper processing is interesting and very artistic. I sure would like to go back in that direction making prints again. My darkroom does not get much work done in it any longer except for film development since the advent of scanning negatives, then using photoshop and paint shop pro which are very good for making prints except for getting rid of "film grain clumping" .<br> Billl</p>

<p>Thanks John ... I need to study this a few more times before I can ask any further questions. Your answer to my question is excellent and appreciated. I had wondered what Fuji's extra fine grain might mean..</p>

<p>How is the film coating process done to prevent grain from clumping? Bill</p>

<p>Thanks Mr. Sexton, <br> I hope this problem is not with other brands such as Ilford and fuji as this seems to be from a paper backing that who knows where the paper is from.<br> Bill Rentenbach ... old time photographer and still a non professional ... <a href="mailto:br49431@yahoo.com">br49431@yahoo.com</a></p>

<p>8 days since your post ... What did you use? Mineral spirits would be what I would have used. You can get it as odorless if you want and It will not hurt the film . Nose oil eh? I used to do that and it did help a scratchy negative. I tried other thin oils on 6x7 format and got some beautiful enlargements from it. Like 24x30 prints. So the mineral spirit and oil did not hurt the film at all. Actually improved it.<br> Bill</p>

<p> I agree with Pete. I blew it up to have a peek at the shape of the grain. Looks like reticulation to me also. I blew it up using Paint Shop Pro X6 and did a simple adjust - one step noise removal and was suprised at the result... The tones just plain smoothed out and a nice photo of a beautiful model.<br> BTW off the topic. I haven't used a stop bath for many years. I used to have very small clear spots on my negatives when using a stop bath. a pain when making prints but todays software cures that quickly along with noise or grain removal. I still use water.<br> Bill</p>

<p> I agree with Pete. I blew it up to have a peek at the shape of the grain. Looks like reticulation to me also. I blew it up using Paint Shop Pro X6 and did a simple adjust - one step noise removal and was suprised at the result... The tones just plain smoothed out and a nice photo of a beautiful model.<br> BTW off the topic. I haven't used a stop bath for many years. I used to have very small clear spots on my negatives when using a stop bath. a pain when making prints but todays software cures that quickly along with noise or grain removal. I still use water.<br> Bill</p>