Wilmarco Imaging

Have a look on dyxum.com. Post a WTB if needed. Large percentage of European members there, so lenses may be located there.

Nice images. The seals on the rotating adapter look good as mentioned above. Seeming like a film loading/back closing situation. Take care that both (2) latches are securely latched after you close the door, after loading the film. The light leak is emanating from the top of the camera, or film back, in the image of the negative strip.

Remove the rotating adapter, and post careful photos of both sides of the revolving adapter, and the rear of the body.

Valerie, the last two portraits are more expressively lit in my view. Keep practicing and studying others' work. Michael is giving some good feedback.

The artifacts move with the film back orientation, is that correct? It seems the artifacts are aligned with the long edge of the film, correct? The artifacts are on the bottom edge of the image in a landscape composition, correct? Which model film back are you using? All generations of film backs are compatible with the Pro SD body. It looks like a light leak to me. It does not look like a shutter or iris defect. Suggested areas to check: - revolving adapter securely attached to the body. Check the chrome lever at the bottom. - film back securely attached to the revolving adapter. Check the upper and lower slide locks. - light seals between revolving adapter and body - light seals between film back and revolving adapter - light seals in the film back, if you are using a Pro S or Pro film back Cock the body and lens together, then remove the lens. Pull the darkslide out of the film back, and trip the body. Now the light baffle should be raised. Use a high intensity flashlight around the film back-to-revolving adapter interface, and look from the lens axis to see if you see light coming into the body. Re-cock the body before re-mounting the lens. Other areas to check, after checking the above: - waist level finder or prism finder securely attached to body - lens securely attached to body

The limiting factor is the photographer.

Good evaluation Michael.

Agree in principle with most of Ben's comments. A camera with a PC port, such as the Rolleiflex 3.5F, is nothing special in terms of how it interacts with strobe lighting. Agree that a wireless (radio) trigger is the preferred option, because of improved mobility and convenience. I don't agree that a wired trigger is a bad idea. It works, just not as conveniently. A flash meter is nearly mandatory, unless you plan to test exposure (bracket) extensively. The Syncro-Compur shutter is a leaf type that syncs at all speeds. Go for it, have fun, and post your results.

Valerie, take for example the portrait on Mr. Noles' site with the subject: Kimiko Glenn. Some of the elements in this portrait are similar to your self portrait. 1. Mr. Noles appears to be using two vertical and seemingly narrow strip boxes. One to camera left and one to camera right. Fairly close to the lens axis. Your lighting setup is considerably different from Mr. Noles'. 2. Mr. Noles' subject exposure is relatively high. This is a constant throughout the images. What varies is modeling/directionality and background. Your key (main) light (strip boxes or soft box) needs to be stronger, relative to the background. 3. The hair light in Mr. Noles' images is fairly hot. You need to increase the strength of the hair light in your image. 4. Ms. Glenn's hair is pulled back in the direction of the hair light, which allows the hair light to partially illuminate the face. Your hair is not pulled back and shadowing that side of your face. A couple of suggestions: - use strip boxes with a stronger output - position the subject farther from the background - use a stronger hair light - use a flash meter to measure exposure of the key light, hair light and light falling on the background. Work so that you achieve significant separation in values. Portraits are a learned skill. Many small adjustments over time will allow you to achieve the style you seek.