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<p>Ferdi: Wow! I really wonder what happened. Luckily the camera is still usable and I have taken some nice shots with it. It is just a hassle to use since I have to manual set the counter and it reaches 12 with four frames left (but then again, not really a big deal). </p> <p>It belonged to my grandfather and who died in 1980 and it hasn't really been used since. I know his wife did get it serviced sometime in the 80's at a place called PTS in Tucson AZ. A google search didn't turn anything up though... Perhaps at this time the side was replaced.</p> <p>I took some more photos of it that you can see here: <p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Thank you for the responses! It looks like the lever that resets the counter when the back is open is missing... I opened up the back and there is absolutely nothing around the rim. Should this be located near the film advance knob?</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> Does anyone know how to reset the film counter on a rolleicord that does NOT have a counter reset button? </p> <p>I have what I believe to be a Rolleicord model iiC (serial #: 971***; Triotar 3.5 taking lens and Heidoscop-Anatigmat 3.2 viewing lens, both of which have bayonet filter mounts) but this camera has NO FILM COUNTER RESET BUTTON as many of the other models do. It has a german exposure chart on the back so I think it is was a domestic german model. <br> <br> The only way that I have figured out how to reset the counter is by manually rolling the wheel that catches on the film to move the counter back to 1 when I start a new roll of film but this is a real pain and I end up at 4 on the counter by the time I reach the first frame. I then have to remember to shoot 4 frames after the counter hits 12. There must be something that I am missing...</p> <p>Thanks! Any help would be appreciated! </p><div></div>

<p>Thanks for your responses, Edward and Henry. Problem solved!</p> <p>I tried to take remove the film back--no luck. Couldn't get the lens off either. BUT, when I undid the insert from the film back something clicked and now the film crank works! Also, it is synced to the body now and advances the film as well! </p> <p>Thank you guys for your help! I went into panic-mode when everything locked up but now it all seems to be fine. </p>

<p>As I said, everything was working except for that the film advance crank did not advance the film, it only cocks the shutter--an existing problem with the camera that has been successfully dealt with in the past by manually advancing the film with the dial on the film back.. My first three frames were shot this way and it seemed to work when testing the camera out without film.</p> <p>Unfortunately my friend who leant me this camera did not have a dark slide so I can't take off the film back without exposing my film, which I would do as a last resort but would rather not. And yes, I have indeed familiarized myself with the manual. </p> <p> </p>

<p>Hi there. I took two shots on a Bronica SQ-B that my friend leant me and everything went fine (except that the film advance crank only cocks the shutter but doesn't advance the film, but this is an issue for another day). After the third shot the mirror locked-up and now I cannot cock the shutter. </p> <p>Any ideas what might be wrong or how i can fix this?</p> <p>By the way, I was able to advance the film to the next shot manually using the manual film winder on the film back (which I did for my first 2 shots and what my friend who owns the camera has always done). I cannot actuate the shutter nor can I cock it but the film advance crank will move freely in the opposite direction. </p>

<p>Rodeo Joe, this is all great to know. Since cutting the power the power down gives such short flash durations it sounds sounds like the best way to freeze action in daylight while getting enough power to light up the subject would be to gang a few strobes together at 1/2 or 1/4 power when shooting at say 1/500th of a second or so. </p> <p>Craig, the idea is that you need fill lighting as well as to stop action. Unless the ambient light is just perfect, it is very difficult to get a skateboarder who is properly exposed without harsh shadows on their face/body. That is why I am not necessarily better off without a flash and just shooting at a fast shutter speed of 1/1000 -1/2000th. </p>

<p>Awesome! Thank you Rodeo Joe, this really clears up what I was wondering. So it sounds like it is nothing to worry about shooting with a shutter speed of 1/500th of a second even if the flash duration is about 1/300 of a second. Great to know.</p> <p>As for that sunpak you found, which model is this? And just how fast is it exactly?</p>

<p>Thank you guys for the responses! </p> <p>Craig, yes I have heard that the vivitar 283 and 285 are real classics. Glad to know that those have worked when syncing at 1/500th. </p> <p>Wayne, thank you for clarifying about the flash durations. My concern is that I will be shooting skateboarding photos, often in daylight making the 1/500th shutter speed very useful for cutting down ambient light and I would like to have a low amount of motion blur ie. a short flash duration. So correct me if I am wrong, but you are saying that I will loose a little of the flash if shooting at full power at 1/500th (I suppose I would compensate by increasing the aperture or just shooting at 1/2 or 1/4 power to avoid this)? </p> <p> </p>

<p>Hi there. I was offered a vivitar 5200 for very cheap that I would use with my Bronica SQ.</p> <p>Would I be able to use this flash even with my shutter speed set at 1/500th? I imagine that the t.1 flash duration is probably around 1/200 at full power. </p> <p>Anyone know what will happen if you use a flash when the FD is slower than the shutter speed you are syncing it to?</p> <p>Thanks! </p>

<p>I have been shooting skateboarding for some time but have always felt rather limited by only using available light. I want to start shooting with flash off camera on a bronica SQ-B with an 80mm lens. I am looking for something with a short flash duration that can freeze action well without getting expensive studio lights such as lumedynes or einsteins.<br> The bronica’s high sync speed of 1/500^th of a second will be great for cutting down the bright daylight but correct me if I am wrong, the flash duration is what is responsible for freezing action. <br> Any recommendations for affordable flash guns (without TTL—no need for it) that have a short flash duration at full power? Or is my best bet just to get multiple speedlights and power them down to make them faster? I was thinking that a fast duration at full power would be useful for keeping the flashes at a safe distance from my subject and balancing the sun.<br> I was thinking about the Yongnuo 560 which according to this article (<a href="http://gock.net/2012/01/flash-durations-small-strobes/">http://gock.net/2012/01/flash-durations-small-strobes/</a>) has a pretty short flash duration when powered down but at full power seems adequate (at about 1/300s). And here (<a href="http://speedlights.net/2010/07/14/yongnuo-yn-560-speedlite-review/">http://speedlights.net/2010/07/14/yongnuo-yn-560-speedlite-review/</a>) there is a chart showing how these are among the fastest at full power when rated using t.1. Anyone use these for skating/other fast action shots with good results?<br> It is difficult to find accurate information about flash duration as there is a lot of speculation on the web and there are two rating systems (t.5 and the more reliable t.1) that complicate matters more.<br> Thanks!</p> <p> </p>

<p>Colin, thanks for the info. Very interesting about the focus knob.</p> <p>As for winding the film, the problem is that there is NO counter-resetting button as you can see in the available pictures. When I am winding the film to the first frame the 1 in the counter appeared before my film even reached the 1 in the red window so when I got to 1 in the red window, the counter had already reached 4. </p> <p>Luckily though, I figured out that it is basically one full turn of the film advance knob to properly advance to the proceeding frame so even when my counter is at 12 I can get my three last shots by advancing the film by about one full turn after each exposure. </p> <p> </p>

<p>I took off the screws and cleaned it out with a little bit of alcohol. I then tried putting in a roll of expired film to see how it works. It turns out that the counter only does work when there is film in it. The film catches on a little wheel that turns the counter. </p> <p>Also peculiarly, the only way I could reset the counter was by manually turning the wheel inside the camera with my finger. There is clearly something that I am missing or that is not working properly but the camera works! I found that when advancing the film there would be a "click" at about a full turn of the film advance knob corresponding to a frame on the counter and at this point the button would spring out and I would have to depress it to advance the film to the next frame. Unfortunately, there is no zero on the counter so by the time I got to the fist frame the counter was already at 4. </p> <p>Thanks for everyone's input! Really glad to have this camera figured out (or figured out enough, anyway)!</p>

<p>Thanks everyone for your responses. If I do oil the button or get the spring back in place should this fix the problem that the counter will not move when I turn the film advance wheel? </p> <p>I can manually turn the wheel inside the camera that operates the counter (in picture below) but when I turn the film advance wheel (there is no film in the camera) the counter does not operate. What is the mechanism that connects these two systems? This is why I was wondering if the presence of film is what engages the counter wheel. </p><div></div>

<p>When I press the button (firmly) it does not go right back to the normal position. It just stays depressed about 2mm and I can advance the film. </p> <p>Will this be a problem if it does not return to the normal position and will the counter be engaged? And does this button in the center of the film advance wheel have anything to do with engaging the counter or just allowing the film to be advanced?</p> <p>Thanks!</p><div></div>