wendell_kelly

The Retina is a straightforward design and any good repair shop should be able to do a competent CLA. Be sure to specify a full cleaning/then relubrication of the shutter and a thorough cleaning of the RF/VF optics.

Only one Speed Graphic?

How much of a modification is this on your camera; what is involved? On some cameras, the Leicaflexes for example, recalibration for silver oxide batteries is just a matter of adjusting two potentiometers in the measuring circuit; nothing is removed or added. A fussy future owner could easily return the potentiometer screws to their original positions were that important to him.

You aren't alone. When I travel, I bring an M6 and a 120 camera. The 120 is sometimes a Fuji 690 but I'm using a Rolleiflex E2 these days for reasons of weight and the bulk of the film that I need carry in my luggage. Shooting with a Rolleiflex is a good way to meet new people, especially in Europe. Back home I use a 4x5 or a 5x7 along with a Barnack Leica or the M6. A view camera is also a good way to meet new people. My wife does use a digital camera, a Fuji x100s, which serves her well, especially for grandkid snaps.

I can't remember the packaging other than I ordered the stuff from Freestyle, it was 35 years ago for me; I did process the transparencies in Dektol. Because I made my transparencies as I would a paper print, I was able to make test strips to determine exposure. The 8x10 size of my transparencies can make up for shortcomings in the photographic emulsion.

I also used the Freestyle material when the lecture slides were to be used with an overhead projector. I didn't make contact prints but formed the image in an enlarger, just like an 8x10 print. I had no problems doing this and the tonality in the image could be quite good.

I used to do this quite regularly to prepare slides for R&D review presentations; it was particularly useful for electron microscope images. This was in the days long before Powerpoint presentations and digital imaging. I used Panatomic-X then. More recently I've used Ilford FP4 to make Stereo slides. substituting permanganate for the chromate bleach.

I believe the Ultron 35mm/1.7 had some build quality issues which could a necessitate an expensive repair to secure a loose lens element. Some users report disappointing softness at the larger apertures. The 35mm/2.5 is a popular lens and a good performer; I use it myself. I find it also makes a good WA enlarging lens for printing cropped 35mm negatives on the larger baseboard.

There is also the 3.5E2 which has all of the features of the 3.5F except for the meter. The E2 cost is usually less.

Your objectives/requirements aren't all to clear to me other than you seek to produce good 6x9 negatives.Is it price, size, or a wish to use a 1950"s camera? Price, and pocket portability, put to one side here, you will not find a superior series of 6x9 cameras than the Fuji 690 series of cameras. Sharp lenses and reliable mechanics. I've carried these, 690W and 690SW with me in the Southwestern US and in Europe and have, without exception, been pleased with the images which I brought home. Crisp 16x20 enlargements are routine with the negatives from these cameras. Downside- the cameras are big (you knew that, it is 6X9 format) and heavy. No complications from pinholed bellows in a folder camera. Your choice, just be aware that the Fujis are an attractive alternative.

I'm a bit late joining this discussion; that being said- First choice: a Leica IIIF with a Canon(aka Serenar) 50mm f1.8 and any decent meter ( a Weston Ranger is really nice). I've had this gear on hand/in hand since 1964. In a pinch a Leica IIIc will do - I rarely, if ever, use a flash. If you have problems with this set of gear, the problem isn't in the hardware. Second choice: A Leica M3 with a Hexanon M 50mm/f2 (50mm Summicron V3 or Zeiss Planar 50mm/f2 also OK). This combination is easier to reload the film in dim light and after dark. Second choice only because the camera and lens are bulkier and heavier to carry all day. Good light all-

Dtto. It's a good idea to wind the film around the take-up roll at least on full turn (with the camera open) to be sure the film is snug on the take up spool.

Some camera repair shops have sheet leather in stock and cut a new covering to fit a camera as needed. I just had this done at Cameraworks in Latham NY for a Leica IIIg; the cost was $40. Precision Camera in Chicago is a Widelux specialist, you might contact them.