walter_degroot

<p>a few years ago I joinded the mamiya form<br> BUT all i have is two mamiya auto 16 cameras.<br> I saw that the Mamiys M42 cameras seemed to be popular but pricey.<br> While searchig I say that the company made several different mounts besides the M42.<br> this was a turn off. Even my Miranda Sensorexed are easier to find than some of the Mamiya ( non-m42) cameras.<br> <em> m sure If I had one of there I would get the " not only no but hell no"</em><br> <em>response I get when asking about Mirandas<br /></em><br> <em>As A result the M42 cameras may be ok<br /></em><br> <em>but the others-- oddball by sesign.<br /></em><br> <em>thisisnot to say they can be useful camewras.<br /></em><br> <em> </em><br> <em>the re are other makes/ that appeal to m,e more.<br /></em><br> <em>only pentax k and canon fd are easy to deal wih.<br /></em><br> <em>If I was starting over I would possibly choose minolta or Nikon.<br /></em><br> <em> </em></p>

<p>I was recently asked for enlager manual info<br> after the crash i no longer have it<br> bu here is one cource<br> http://www.jollinger.com/photo/enlargers/</p>

<p>MOST PHOTOGRAPHY S 1- INSIDE A BUILDING<br> OR 2- OUTSIDE IN DAYLIGHT.<br> Insidwe often with a flash. the walls change the erxposure by reflecting light. n a church or large hall or a sports arena ( often lighted)<br> exposure must be adjusted to allow for the lack of reflection<br> from the walls of an average room.</p> <p>Outside in daylight the sunlight acted as a fill-background light.<br> You may notice snaps taken in a suburban back yard or at a picnic grove display the background as not as bright as remembered.<br> this is because the flash is brighter and causes the distant backgrownd not to be properly exposed.<br> outdoors i the open. the fl;ash and the tolerance or film or the digital sensor will expose groups of people more or less properly.<br> but skylines hills or scenes- even if lighted- wil b poorly exposed.<br> in this case some thought and manual settings- not always possible with modern cameras- will be required/<br> not to go back into history<br> BUT Modern Photograp[hy published a guide for many common situations.<br> Many modern cameras are not well suited for most night-time scenes.<br> I know that a gude ( no line) for my Old Canon G2 showed it night-tie scenic<br> capabilities it has a fast lens.</p>

<p>i have my old GE golden crown pr-3.<br> it is easy to use and pretty much a universal meter.<br> set the asa ( iso) with a magnifier and the rest is easy- wven with poor eyes.<br> mine still seems ok after 40 years.<br> pointer, as far as I recall, has no lock.<br> the standard is the weston meter but the [<br> I also buily a Knight-kit cd s meter.<br> It needs some kid of mercury or zinc-oxide cell (2)<br> it features a Honneywell taught-band meter.<br> which makes it resistant to bumps.<br> ( allies radio corp)<br> an at the time was known as the "<br> poor man s luna six)<br> it sold for under $20.00</p>

<p>free as in free but hard to figure out<br> well i tried but did not finf a way to download nything/<br> maybe it is just my eyes?</p>

i have sort of a pet peve. my first three cars were Studebakers. Possibly because the dealers were friends. But I left the Studebaker site because nobody left the cars stock. they always had to change something. Other cars were altered and grilles replaced ( someties the results were ugly)\A few models from the 1950 s and 1960 s could use a little "enhancement" But most, at least according to my thoughts" were just fine as they were originally made. We owned a "sort of" Victorian home., and subscribed to the "old house Journal" a rear page was always dediucated to "":old house remuddling" I generally feel the same way about many car modicications. OF COURSE the man, who in the 1950 s had an old old car with a exposed radiator cap with a cap gun attached to the chrome radiator cap and fired with a long wire. that was cool. Or the man with an old chevy coupe who cut out the firewall and installed a mammon straight 8. or the 1950 ford with a flathead 1948cadilac engine. I loved those "sleepers"

<p>I agree that Black cmeras are beauties and "<br />classics"</p> <p>I almost bought a black Miranda sensorex from essex camera service when they were in Jersey city.<br> but I a more reminded of the letter in Modern Photography.<br> Black cameras were considered to be PRO and many wanted a blkack camera.<br> Modern, I think in a column gave instructions, very specific instructions"<br> on howto remove the top and bottom vovers and prep ad spray the metal and bake it.<br> it was carefully described/<br> However some Yahoo<br> took his crome cam,era and witout paying attention to this.<br> aimes a spray can at his camera.</p> <p>turns out according to what he wrote<br> he ruined the camera.<br> what a waste.<br> and not paying attention.<br> he was mad at th m,agazine for even suggesting this.</p> <p>I never went so far.<br> I DID ues a yellow china marker to fill in the white engravings on my Konica c-35 RF camera.</p> <p>I wonder if that guy ever got his camera working again?</p>

<p>loading a tank is a manual skill. just like learning to tie shoos in Kindergarten.,<br> I started with 120 film and an old tank in 1948.<br> the wider grooves halped<br> later in 1950 127 film and a FR Special tank.<br> I still have that tank and some new ones. from 1960 on I used only 35mm film.<br> the sharp hook in the senter and leaning how to be gentle handling film helped as lot.<br> the nikkor and other metal reels are more of a challenge.<br> but practice in daylight wilth some film and you will get the hang of it.<br> Once learned, it is a manual skill youwill not forget.<br> prectice.<br> it is easy to becoe disoriented in the dark.<br> you do not need eyes to do this. same as tying shoes.<br> the worst thing to do is forcing the film ona reel.</p> <p>Even though I seldom load film. I find when I do, the hand skillis still there.<br> do not become discouraged.</p>

<p>I HAVE A FEW B@W ROLLS PLUS TWO BULK ROLLS.</p> <p>i have too many 35mm cameras to count.<br> i also have 20+ rolls of color print film in the freezer.<br> since the new walmart opened and has no mini lab,<br> i have not used any colo film and only 2 or 3 rolls of b@w.<br> there seem to be no mini-labs.</p> <p>the other factor is my eyes.<br> oct 11 is when i am supposed to have a cataract operation.<br> we will see.<br> meanwhile i take out the film cameras<br> the argus af, the kodak signet, the miranda s, pentaxes and the canons.<br> they will, I hope , eventually get used<br> I also have digicams. Including a 10mp Olympus xz-1. donaTED BY A PHOTO-NETTER<br> THANK YOU AGAIN. <br> THIS MAY BE ALL THE CAMERA i WILL EVER NEED/</p> <p>lest I forget a seagull 203 and a speed and crown graphic 4X5 and a 4 x 5<br> usmc combaT GRAPHIC.<br> IF I LIVE SEVERAL MORE YEARS I HOPE TO USE THEM ALL<br> OH YES A BOX OF 20" P&S 35MM</p>

<p>this was the year after i was married.<br> i dragged my poor wife to camera stores.<br> i finally let her tay home and resy.</p> <p>I was still using the Classic IV and the argus c-3.<br> Later I bought a miranda D as it had a removable prism.<br> BUT the external coupled diaphragm ( a la exacta)<br> meant any future lenses would be preser.<br> Later my brother gifted me with a Miranda sensorex and I boughht more lenses.<br> I am still mostly interested in close ups and for that reason have the waist level and critical viw=ew finders.<br> Back then either Kodachome or Plus-x were my films.<br> Kodachrome and even plus-x are now gone.<br> Kodak does not make B&W paper.<br> but I am still thinking the same way.<br> I have fully automatic cameras as well as 4 digitals, but the early full auto cameras sometimes confuse me.<br> aaagh modern photography magazine and bert Keppler. How I miss them.<br> Pop photagraphy magazine is the pits<br> That is if they still publish it.</p> <p> </p>

<p>i was just on the 'bay<br> looking atused cameras.<br> i purchased som pc memory<br> and the $10.00back popped up/<br> sure why not<br> i did not object to giving out my e-mail affress and street address.<br> BUT<br> when they asked for my passwrd<br> and bvank card number, i hit the red x<br> and exited.<br> i know i can send money to a person<br> with only heir email address ( one they use for their paypal account)<br> but my numbers are supposed to be kept secret.<br> if ebay wanted ( or paypal) wanted to send me monet they don't need this info, only <br> my email address.</p> <p>is this a trick to get to my ( little)<br> money?</p>

<p>i have two mamiya auto 16 cameras and one<br> other simpler sub-min camera. I even ( somewhere) have empty cartriges<br> for the mamiya cameras.<br> and a flange for the FR tank to develop 16mm film.<br> I never used any or then.<br> I l;ooked for a Mamiya " enla head"</p> <p>this is a device that resembles an enlarging lens.<br> it has condensers at the top<br> and a slot for 16mm film and a 25mm enlarging lens.<br> screws into your enlarger and sort-of converts it to a usable 16mm enlarger.</p>

fashe bulns strted in the 30s 40 s and early 50 s as 121 and 22 the 11 was like a 60 watt bulb the 5 bu;lns use a base like an auto tailhht bulb with the same base as a household bulb. L there were smallet bulbs with a 3.8" dialmeter base? with a groove there was a common adapter that ft the bayonet sopcket. and permitted the use of the - was it m2 and m3b bulbs? likely theargus flash holder early on used the screw base bulbs'and later the bayonet -auto style- bulbs. when I had a c-3 and an electronic flash, I used a cord with two ouls that fit the glash contacts. I had mine apart and I think I found a way to change the timing. but i did use the old electronic flash but do not recall if I could expose at faster speeds. try flashing while the backl is open to check timing it costs a LOT less.' besides with today's fast films the flashj is far too bright. The lens was sharp and you will be pleased with the phots making an adapter could be a probkem. but better to display the camera flash and bulbs in a display case. there is an argus forum that can be a big help

<p>i only own minolta p@s cameras.<br> i like minolta, but did not get involved with a 4th lens mount.<br> browsing the big bay site, I see lots of Minolta cameras of that era.<br> I did "study" the brand enough to know the difference so the full apeture<br> lenses would be my first choice if i were buying a minolta.<br> i see lots of minoltas. and you should be able to get another for a low price,<br> i, of course, would try hard to repair the screwed up camera.<br> it would really botherme to have an almost working camera.<br> enjoy film photography.<br> i have yet to use all the canon cameras i sort of inherited</p>

<p>i had corres[pndense wit anthony in the uk<br> regarding a sigma 135mm miranda sensorex lens<br> he said he would send a paypal invoice to cover costs.</p> <p>my eyes, as you may know, are very poor.<br> and i looked for but did not see an e-mail.</p> <p>i don't really know how this works<br> but i have sent cash tppeople in the past.<br> i just sent it to an email address.<br> I hope anthony sees this and I can<br> get this lens. </p>