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viniciuscruz

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  1. @tomspielman Thanks for the tips man! The whole thing about Super 8 seems really cool, did you ever got a chance to shoot something in this format?? Truth is I got overly curious and loaded the roll on my Fm-2. After leaving the roll in the fridge for a while it just didn't seem so bad, and the first frames that I pulled the base actually looked Ok (no visible fungus). Probably gonna send it for developing some time soon, since I have no means of developing it myself. I`m curious of the " mess" it might come out from this expired slide film that`s probably gonna be processed on C-41 chemistry (easier and cheaper). I`ll get back to you guys if get some workable pictures.
  2. [uSER=2403817]@rodeo_joe|1[/uSER] You're right ; it is loaded from bulk (for lack of better words I used " hand rolled" ) into anonymous (actually is a Kodak Gold cassette) cassetes. I know it is a positive slide 100 film because someone wrote on top of de cassete. Never heard of film wraped in rizla paper, it's usually other stuff. Isn't any film cassete reloadable though? For now I'm gonna hold off on shooting it, probably will open it up some other time just to see how the film base looks.
  3. @tomspielman That sounds like a good ideia, I'll end up losing a roll but at least I'll have some ideia of what it looks like. Even in the casa of throwing those rolls in the bin I'm probably gonna open them up for curiosity. For anyone wandering, I live in Brazil and things here are a lot different when it comes to supply; film is expensive here. A roll of Kodak Colourplus 200, which is the cheapest still in production film I've found, cost around 5,8 u$. And that's a cheap consumer grade film. Tri-X cost around 14 u$. So I'm always looking for cheap film, I've recently found I guy who sells very cheap movie films reloaded in 35mm cannister. I'm very interest but afraid because of the Rem-Jet and further difficulties in processing the film (would have to be in C-41, good luck trying to find someone in Brazil with the chemistry for the original movie film process). When it comes to lab, it's very limited. I live in a capital altough is not one of the huge ones (São Paulo and Rio), so I'm pretty much stuck with C-41 minilabs. I've been trying to contact a professional photographer that has an actual darkroom and see if he could give me some classes on it. I'm shooting film mainly for the novelty it represents to me, and I've been reading a lot about develpoment and printing darkroom process. Haven't been able to actually develop a film myself; the only film developing tank I've found in Brazil is being sold for 90 u$ (That's just stupid) so I've been holding off on buying the supplies until something better comes off. " Fortunately " developing C-41 in minilabs is pretty cheap, you can get it as cheap as around 2-3 u$ a roll.
  4. Thanks for the reply. I got lost on the whoke positive film explanation; as far as I understand those are E-6 process films, which is rare to get processed, so I thought about cross processing in C-41 at a common lab. I sounds silly but Im curious of what gonna come out of it. And E-6 films are pretty expensive around here, so it would be a way of fooling around with cross processing. But, oh god, they stink. (the film)
  5. Hey guys and gals. Today I found 2 rolls of hand-rolled positives that were lying down in the geology lab I study. They were hand-rolled back in the day professors still used 35mm positives for slides presentations. I asked around and there was no problem and I grabbed both of them, once I got home I notice the really strong vinegar smell the films had, researched a little bit and found out about the " vinegar syndrome". My question is; is it okay to load those films and expose them? I'm just curious about what is gonna show up but a little scared to screw something in camera/lab. I'm aware that there's probably a lot of fungi on the film base, and the speed (which was originally 100) is probably much lower now..
  6. Thanks everyone for the help and replies. So far I think exercise itself has fixed the problem. If it comes back in a severe way I'll probably be sending it to tech, since I wouldn't exactly know the amount or where to apply the lube.
  7. Hi Rick, no offense taken, truth is I couldn't afford paying for the fix at the time (althought I don't think he was charging something absurd). Also, this camera had been fixed before for the same problem (before my father let it sit in his office) and the problem came back, altought I'm sure the problem came back because the camera remained idle after it was fixed. Also, after looking at many threads it seemed like something I could possible fix myself so I decided to try it out myself.
  8. Thanks everyone for the replies. I don't think I'll have acess to a grinder anytime soon, and grinding a screwdriver to make it fit in a JIS screw seems beyond the scope of my skills. I've only tried #0 phillips so far, I'm guessin the #00 is a smaller head? Ben, in my case I have the aluminum shutter, and I know it sounds really sketchy but it works. I actually saw a guy in a repair shop do it right in front of me and was also surprised and "safe" he made it look. I do believe exercise alone might fix it, I don't have a motordrive to shoot 1000 though.. guess I'll do it manually a bit everyday... I believe some lube would definitly help (the guy in the repair shop also told me so) but for that I would need to acess the bottom plate I believe. Anyway, it's working now but I'm always afraid of loading film and have a shoot ruined by having to pull the curtain down manually..
  9. Hi guys and gals. Recently I got an old Nikon Fm2n from my father that had been sitting in his office for almost a decade I believe. When I first tried the shutter release button and the wind lever were stuck. After looking throught a few threads here I found that the problem was with the shutter curtain, which would not come fully back up and thus would not release the mirror and the wind lever. I was able to fix it by gently pulling the curtain down and letting it come back up, which brought the mirror down and let me wind the lever again. Problem is, the fix is not only sketchy but also temporary. If I leave the camera laying for a day or less the curtain locks again. Now I know this is a fairly common problem on Fm2n from what I've read. Some people suggest that you take the bottom plate down and " play " with the shutter release parts of the camera. My question is;the shutter curtain problem I have on my Fm2n is the same problems described on these threads? Stuck in FM2 shutter release button and advance lever FM2n shutter and advance stuck It seems like it can be fixed by tweaking, and maybe applying some grease, with the mechanism behind the bottom plate of the camera. The second question I have; I live in Brazil and it's almost impossible to get a JIS screwdriver, and so far I haven't been able to take the bottom plate of with a phillips screwdriver. Can it be open with care using a smaller phillips screwdriver perhaps? I know this is fairly common problem and there is a few threads about it, I'm curious on why the curtain dosen't come back up if I leave it lt laying around for a bit.
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