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vania_plemiannikov

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  1. Interesting, I always thought stand development was one of the worst cause of streaking and other sort of development artifacts... I could try that. I really thought changing developer was the key but no. It's not solved yet although it's acceptable as long as there is no wide empty space like sky or snow. I don't see the issue on portrait or studio work but landscape is another story. Slightly better with Jobo constant hand agitation on roller base. Next test will be to add some wetting agent either to the developer or the pre-wet.
  2. For futur reference to those who might find it interesting, here is a copy of an email to Ilford which sums up all my testing. In the end I just cannot develop with HC110/Ilfotech HC anymore : I also wanted to let you know the result of my extensive testing. To cut to the point I managed to isolated the cause and I am about 99% sure the steaks are caused by the developer as testing with ID11 are streak free. But of course things are a little more complicated. The developers that cause this are HC110 and Ilfotec HC. I have tried 2 bottles of Kodak one and 1 bottle of Ilford and all gave the same streaks, rolls after rolls, with more or less intensity depending on the agitation pattern. Usually the more agitation with just enough developer to cover the reel(s) the less streaking. A 1 minute initial agitation have a strong positive impact. Pre-wetting might provide some improvement but it did not have a clearly noticeable effect. I have not tried another type of liquid developer yet. I have tried every possible agitation method except continuous and always get some form of streaks. I have used many different tanks and reels as well (Paterson and metal with hewes reels). The puzzling thing is that I gave 2 rolls to a lab that uses HC110 1+47 and they came out normal. I do mix my developer well, at 20°C and usually do a large batch at 1+31 because it last for so long. I have tried different dilutions as well with no effect. My stop bath is a Tetenal acetic acid diluted to 2%. I am thinking about using just water to see if it makes a difference… Fixer is Hypam 1+4. I hope maybe you can make some sense out of this. Please let me know if you do !
  3. Using stainless steel too. I have different tanks with hewes reels. There's no difference with the paterson regarding the current problem...
  4. Strangely enough all the still lives I shoot in doors are streak free probably because they are against a white or black background and the streaks only really show in the skies/snow or large smooth zones vi-vii. Well it's my guess but I don't know left from right anymore.
  5. I sort of did that already. Gave some films to develop to a pro lab that came out with no issue. They are from the same trip than the ones that showed the problem initially. They all have streaks except for the one develop in the pro lab with the same developer as me (HC110). And the guy was kind enough to take the time to show me how he processes his films. His inversion rotation-method was the same as mine. I did not see him actually develop the films though and that might be difficult to obtain... As for friends I don't have any proficient in theses matters.
  6. I like the portrait a lot :-) Thanks for hanging in there and your concern! I have adopted your method and thought it got rid of the problem but the streaks came back with a vengeance. It is incomprehensible I have tried changing all variables but still get them.
  7. Thanks a lot for the detailed description! I use roughly the same method except I invert while rotating as described in Adams book. I will look out this figure 8 motion as I am not sure how this works. I thought I solved the issue by using minimal amount of chemistry to just cover the reels and 1 minute initial agitation but it's back again. I have seen a couple of very experience printers running top darkrooms here in Paris and none of them can figure out what's wrong. It's quite despairing...
  8. So after more testing your inversion method works great with Paterson tanks. With a 3 minutes presoak and 1 minute initial agitation. Then 1 sharp inversion/rotation and back in 5s every 30s. Very even development, no streaks ! Does not seem to work so well with metal tanks though where 3-4 inversions/rotations per 5s seem to provide more even development. Do you use both type of tanks ? With the same agitation pattern ? Thanks
  9. Thanks for sharing ! This is interesting to me. Less agitation is basically what ilford recommended when I contacted them but in practice I have to say that this only made things worse for me. But I started inverting slo-mo as you say. So far the only 2 changes that gave the most satisfying result (although not perfect) comes with more agitation. First one is agitating for the full 1st minute. This is now a necessity or else I get streaks 100% of the time. The second one is using only enough chemistry to cover the reels. 400ml in metal tank. This gives much more even development. Paterson would be the recommended 500ml but I can't get streak free development with those Paterson tanks anymore. My guess is that I can't produce enough agitation but maybe the slo-mo or too many inversions are to blame next test I'll try it your way. Up to now the most satisfying results have come with 4 inversions with a rotation twist in 5s every 30s. If I do less or at a slower pace or just invert without rotation some form of streaking appears. Perhaps this is mostly visible because I shoot a grey card for my tests but still, it's there. In any case it's way much better but still not perfect. I am curious, what is your initial agitation method ? What type of tank/reels do you use ? What developer(s) do you use and what is your typical development time ? Thanks!
  10. Funny somebody asked me about the rubber band already so it must be a common thing but I never heard of it before or felt I needed it... my films are quite tightly sealed. And I would need to cary buckets of them around ;-)
  11. I don't get perfectly even negatives though (when shooting a grey card) but I will work on that.
  12. Someone posted this link on another forum : Having issues: defeat streaky development in 2017 — ERIK GOULD PROJECTS This tends to confirms the origin of the streaks as being link to chemical reaction when introducing the developer and/or during the first seconds. As stated already I have tried both type of tanks Paterson and steel tank with and without pre-soak, pouring the developer in the tank (including the Paterson type) and dropping the reels in the developer in the dark, as well as with or without the Paterson twizzle stick (worst results by far!) But none of these had any effect. So the defect is happening anyhow, unless I agitated for the first minute. This maybe due to the active nature of HC110 as dilution B and I definitely should try a higher dilution as suggested before. I sort of conclude that there is nothing wrong and that I just have to agitate for the first minute with this developer now. I am just very surprised that it is happening now after more than 10 years of use... This does match the recommendation of "Way beyond monochrome" and Steve Anchell's 'Darkroom cookbook" : « Agitation is an integral part of film development. It prevents chemical defects from occurring, builds contrast in the negative, and has a direct effect on image sharpness. The first benefit, preventing chemical defects, is accomplished within the first minute of development. This is because there are certain irreversible chemical defects that can begin within that time. If allowed to begin, they become worse during the course of development. The solution is continuous agitation for the first 50 to 60 seconds. » Thanks all for the suggestions!
  13. It's very kind of you but I gave some films to a lab with no issue already.
  14. I let a film dried horizontally, same issue so it's not that nor any kind of drying marks. The only thing that seems to work so far is an initial 1 minute agitation instead of 30s. It's almost gone but still slightly perceptible.It also tells that this is happening in the early stage of development. It's not the pouring either since I just dipped the film in a filled tank with the same issue.
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