ulrik_plate1

<p>Thanks fellas. Louis you are living testiment to why i freaking love online forums. Qualified answer that one!<br /><br /></p>

<p>Thanks fellas. Louis you are living testiment to why i freaking love online forums. Qualified answer that one!<br /><br />The gear will go on on eBay. I find stuff like this locally and sell it to someone who (hopefully) will put it to good use. I have had a bunch of 600SEs so know that model very well.<br> As a side note the 600SE remains one of my personal favourite cameras of all the cams I sell. I see pretty much all the good analogue stuff but the 600SE is one of those rare models that adds its magic dust to the images. The technical back/lens will probably just be run as a $1 auction and perhaps someone can mod it into something useful.</p>

<p>Got this camera in a lot with a 600SE and what looks to be a passport camera of sorts. I haven't seen the one on the right before so can anybody on here shed some light on the model and what it was used for? It looks like it should be screwed onto something.<br /><br /><img src="http://www.lauritz.com/Item/ItemImage/ItemImagePage.aspx?LanguageId=1&ItemId=4199971&ImageNo=1&ImageCount=6" alt="" /></p> <p> </p>

<p>Valuable information there Henry and Joe! I totally agree the positioning of the kids was pretty bad. I had hired a so called pro photographer to do the groups as I was shooting the portraits. He pretty much bluffed when applying. Couldn't even sort kids by height and forgot the class sign in half the shots. This is actually one of the better ones! But of course it is my responsibility and next time around I'll be really really anal when instructing my co-shooters.<br /><br /><br> Henry, how powerful a strobe do you usually use for a shot like this? I think I had 2 x 450W bounced 45 degrees into the ceiling and a 250W for fill. Would be so much easier with a single head.<br> Ron, I often use the trick you describe at least for fill when using side lighting. Here the back wall was yellow so couldn't be done here.</p>

<p>Thanks Craig, it looks like increasing the height of the lamps is the key here. </p>

<p>The looking slightly up point is very good Joe! I'm learning valuable lessons here, awesome. Wrt to the crop I could crop it a bit tighter but the style here in Denmark has always been to include the feet in the shot so every parent expects a class photo to look this way more or less. Wrt to aspect ratio one major consideration was the paper formats of the print service, so didn't have a lot of wriggle room on that one.</p>

<p>Thanks Ellis,</p> <p>I'll have to get rid of it in the future definitely. I'm positioning my business as the more aesthetic alternative to the garbage out there, so everything must be spot on. I've got the portraits pretty much nailed and they look awesome, but lighting the groups was a new challenge that needs a little more thinking. Great idea with the photoshop layers I might consider that as I prefer the softer bounced lighting than a direct 1000W single head.</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses! I actually tried to move the chairs close, but with the focal length it meant that the top edge of the curtain was showing and I couldn't back up any further. Perhaps moving them outdoors is really the way to go if there isn't a room provided with sufficient space. I bounced the two main lights into the ceiling to get soft light coming from above but I realize that with two lights coming from each side I will always have problems with shadows not hiding directly behind the people. I also had a the single fill flash positioned right next to the camera which is probably the main culprit for the shadows above the heads. Cheers.</p>

<p>Shot my first school photography gig and had some problems lighting the groups. Tried to move the lights around and increase distance to background, but I just couldn't get rid of the shadows on the backdrop. Can anybody see what I do wrong and suggest solutions for the next time?<br /><br /><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/580/21034359522_d01cca7995_c.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Old thread but though I would share my findings. What Michael said is correct. Take off the focusing rubber and drop some acetone into the tiny hole. Well it didn't work for me I'll admit and I managed to mess up the tiny screw. The info bezel was permanently stuck. Being desperate I simply drilled through the screw using a dremel! This allowed me to unscrew the ring. Then comes another tiny screw in the side of the front lens group, which also needs acetone and a gentle hand with a TINY screwdriver. I got this one loose correctly and could now screw out the entire front lens group. To get inside the front group you have two more acetone needing screws (they are so small that I am not even 100% sure that they are screws). I still couldn't unscrew these elements but after soaking the ridge all the way round the ring came loose. You need a spanner wrench with the pointy ends for this and it is pretty obvious what you need to do once you have it like this. As a side note you will have access to the aperture once the front lens group is out, so if you have problems with stuck aperture this is how you get to it.</p>