troyammons

<p>I figured it out.<br> Infinity at 28mm is about 15' away.<br> Disassembled it and apparently it was repaired or an attempt made and not reassembled correctly or maybe modified into a more macro lens. <br> My vote goes to bad assembly.</p>

<p>At 28mm it front focuses about 30'<br> At 85mm its still front focused but not as bad - like maybe 5'.<br> This is with an LAEA-4 on an A7R but since its apparently a lens problem thought I would post here.<br> I also have a 70-210 on the same adapter and it is fine.</p>

<p>I read an internet post a while back about a guy that had a thread adapter made so he could use front filters. Very specific how he did it.<br> Cant find it now but its on the internet.<br> The OD of a 77mm filter is slightly smaller than the inside of the lens food so maybe you could do something with that.</p>

<p>Probably ESP coated, IE eletrostatic powder coated and baked.<br> There is a substance called Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black Metal Finish you could touch it up with.</p>

<p>I just cleaned a Canon FL 200mm F3.5 I got off ebay as a junker.<br> With some of these old lenses like this the entire front barrel will unscrew off the body of the lens with the front elements intact. Thats the easy part.<br> My 200mm FL has a single slotted set screw in the side and if you loosen that the entire front assembly unscrews. <br> I disassembled it from the front down to the aperture, then took the mount off the back and got some of that assembly out of the way and removed the rear group and cleaned the exposed the aperture without removing it.<br> I really pulled my hair out on this one, because it was difficult to figure out how it came apart. <br> Just prior I had cleaned a Mamaiya 135mm F2.8 which is easy by comparison and a nice lens and it was much easier to take apart. Similar in that the entire front barrel unscrews. <br> I did learn one thing. I dont want to work on any Canon FL lenses. <br> Be cautious if you remove the rear silver ring because apparently some lenses have ball bearings under the ring. Mine did not.<br> You might want to watch a few of this guys videos. Your lens is not on there, but you might find some useful info.<br> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC89vHLITb7DWKe07_hSWYBw</p>

<p>I am looking for something for occasional use that is not too expensive.<br> I want a removable lens mount camera, like M or M39 etc.<br> Want something that will take a superb 35mm lens and looking at the Voigtlander 35mm F1.2 lens which in that case would take a M mount although I have a couple of M39 lenses I can use with an adapter.<br> Want a large or at least largish viewfinder with frame lines for maybe WA through 50mm or so.<br> Want an in body meter, match needle preferred.<br> Something that works with a modern available battery.<br> Would like to have aperture priority and also manual modes.<br> Want something that if the meter breaks it can be repaired. IE would prefer no Minolta CLE I guess unless they are very solid and mostly break proof.<br> Want a lever wind handle, IE no knob.</p> <p> </p>

<p>I cant comment on the Tokina except it will be heavier, but the Canon FD 300mm F4 L is one of the sharpest 300mm lenses I have ever owned. Its sharp WO. If you are using it on digital you may have to remove the internal filter as it caused reflections with my camera.</p>

<p>I like to shoot a roll of film every now and then and I have a few film bodies, but lately I have been picking up a few very nice and sharp FD lenses and would like an all manual manual FD body.<br> I used to have an AE1 but never really cared for it. I would like to be able to shoot Aperture mode or fully manual.<br> Manual body and a decent top shutter speed swing needle metering etc.<br> Which would be a good one ?</p> <p> </p>

<p>Lens is set to A.<br> Body on S or C just continuously hunts and never locks on.</p>

<p>Cleaned the contacts, no change.<br> Have another regular F4 body coming so that should tell the story if its the lens or not.<br> Would rather have a regular F4 anyway, so will send the F4S back.</p> <p> </p>

<p>That is the only AF lens I have without an internal motor.<br> It has to be the motor function inside the body since the body focuses this lens. </p>

<p>Have used a few manual focus lenses and the internal range finder works great, and I have used a 18-35mm internal focus lens and it focuses but has an internal motor.<br> I now have a Nikon 55mm f2.8 AF micro-nikkor and it will not lock focus on my camera body no matter what. The body came from KEH so I assume this is some sort of problems with the body ?? or is it a problem with the lens. I assume the body since the body decides when the lens is in focus.</p> <p> </p>