Aoresteen

Thanks all! I returned the camera. The seller agreed to take it back. I am on the hunt for another one.

I just bought a Canon 5D (first version Mark I) and I can not get the rear LCD to come on. The top LCD comes on. Focus doesn't seem to work (lens is set to AF) although it focus when I turn the camera on. The battery is fully charged. I have an empty 2GB CF card in it. I downloaded the user manual for the Canon 5D but could not find anything in the manual on turning the LCD on or off. I tried to playback an image (page 107). Nothing happens - the 5D does not access the CF card. I have two Canon EF lenses: 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 Ultrasonic and the 75mm-300mm f/45.6 III. Both lenses work fine in my EOS 630, EOS 630, and EOS Rebel S film cameras.This is my first Canon digital camera. Is there a way to re-set the camera without using the menus (which I can not see) ? I read the manual and on page 150 shows a way to clear the settings but that assumes that you can see something on the rear screen. Before I return the camera, I want to make sure the 5D doesn't have a simple way to get it fully working. TIA! Tony

Harry did wonderful work on my Rolleiflex 2.8C - He installed a Maxwell screen during the service. Highly recommended.

I have two of them. B&W 110 film is available from B&H. It's Lomography film. The rolls I got in 2019 were made in China. I just got 20 rolls in and it is now made in Germany.

I have a lot of love for Vivitar glass. Series 1 lenes of the 70s & 80s are very fine lenes. I have the 28mm, the 70-210 zoom 3rd version Komine (the best version), and the 135mm f/2.3. I have about 6 other Vivitar lenses as well from the 70s & 80s. They are all fine performers. As mentioned above in the 90s and later quality declined. As to your 35mm lens need, Vivitar glass will work just fine. The absolute best M42 35mm lens I own is the Pentax Super-Multi-Coated 35mm f/3.5. And I have the SMC Takumar 35mm f/2.

While cleaning up my camera area a few days ago,, guess what I found? Yep, a Rolleikin. I bought it about 11 years ago and put it on a top shelf and forgot about it. Maybe I should give it a go.

Waldemar, Sorry I missed your reply 6 years ago. Common adapters like the Heavystar one do not have the grove cut in them so that the Leica clip-on shade 12585 can clip on & reverse ove the lens for storage.. I just bought another 1952 Sumitar for my IIIf and I will have to have SK grimes make another ring. They also made me a 40mm to 39mm step-down ring with the grove cut into it for use on my Canon L39 lenses. I should have kept the first Sumitar adapter SK Grimes made for me! Live & learn!

My IF & IIIF have very specific uses. My Voigtlander 15mm sits on the IF as the lens is not RF coupled. The 15mm viewfinder sits in the cold shoe. Works very well. The 21mm Voigtlander sits on my IIIF body as it is RF coupled so I can check close focus when needed. The 21mm viewfinder sits in the cold shoe. Why waste an M viewfinder when using the 15mm or 21mm? You have to use an aux finder anyway. (yeh I should have bought a Bessa R4M when they came out :( ) I use Leicavits on both of my L39 bodies. That's why I just bought a Canon VI-T to use mostly with my Canon 35mm f/2 lens. Trigger winds rock! I have been known to put a 50mm lens on my IIIF and use it as a walk-about set up.

The main reason was that Fuji could produce the lenses Hasselblad wanted and at a price lower than Zeiss. And they could produce the bodies with the QC that Hasselblad expected. Win/Win for Fuji & Hasselblad.

Last April I was in Santa FE NM and we were on the square. I saw a sign for a drugstore that said they sold FILM. Humm. I walked in and sure enough they had fresh Kodak C-41 35mm film. I bought a roll just because they had it.

Or a Bronica with a dodgy leaf shutter :)

I had SK Grimes make a special adapter to use 39mm filters and have a groove cut in it to use the Summicon-M clip on vented shade. I should have kept it but I sold it with the lens.

Ok, tested Rockwell's tip on my 630 with HP-5 and it worked. Problem solved. Thanks to all.

Thanks. That occurred to me but why should I have to do that to adjust the ISO? I found a note on Ken Rockwell's site for the EOS 650/620 that says: "If you want to force it (ISO) manually, flip down the rear door, hold down the two ISO buttons, look at the top LCD and spin the dial." That works with my EOS 650 and I need to test it with the 630 when I have a roll of DX film in it. Now why isn't that in the 630 manual? It's easy to do with the 650. Canon EOS 620 & EOS 650 I will post my results when I load a roll of film again in the 630.