tomweis

Yes I'm aware of the older Vivitars' high trigger voltage... my post was tongue in cheek. No, I wrote, "...a Nikon SB910 or an old SB25 work fine on the Coolpix A". The camera hot shoe is fine.

Thanks for your input, everyone! @ mike_halliwell - Turns out the Godox X2T transmitter has a menu item labeled "Shutter" and the two options are "Curtain" and "Leaf". I may go to a store and test one. @ Mary Doo - Right, none of my four Godox TT685Ns work on the Coolpix A. I have four flashes because I use two bodies at events, each with a flash, and I frequently set up two room lights at events (wedding receptions, bar/bat mitzvah parties). I also use 2 - 4 flash units on stand(s) during the family portrait sessions at those type of events. Actually, I have 8 Godox TT685 series flashes; 4 for Nikon and 4 for Olympus. The nice thing is that they all use the same radio system so they all can be triggered from any camera system using a Godox/Flashpoint transmitter. @ bgelfand - I tried all my tests in manual mode (both flash and camera). I use manual mode 90% of the time as a matter of course. @ steve_gallimore|1 - Godox firmware or Coolpix firmware? The Coolpix has the latest firmware for that model (which is sort of old now). The flashes are at V3.2. Godox firmware V3.3 for the TT6895N says only "Compatible with Camera D780’s hotshoe agreement." I don't own a D780 so I hadn't bothered with this. Besides, it only works on a Windows PC - thanks Godox! - and needs a third party piece of software to unzip the RAR file. Apparently, Godox software people are stuck in 1987. At any rate, I doubt it would fix my issue. @ rodeo_joe|1 - trigger voltage... maybe. I can try an old Vivitar 285. ;) @ mike_halliwell - Other than the old Vivitar 285, I have no other flashes to test.

Thanks, Bill. I'm OK with 4x6 prints at least for now. The feature I like about the DP-QW410 is that it weighs only about 15 pounds - easy to pack, easy to carry. At 30 seconds per prints it's not the fastest, but it's not the most expensive either. This will be my first "photo booth" type of event. If I find myself booking these shoots in the future I may add a faster printer with more print size options. Thanks for the tips about keeping the printhead clean and protecting it from damage!

Thanks for all you answers! I called Mitsubishi to see if they had a driver for macOS Big Sur, and they do not. The guy I spoke to said that Mitsubishi does not make the CP-M1 any longer and has no plans for a replacement. I'm so glad I didn't buy one! I went with the DNP DP-QW410 instead. We'll see how it work out.

I have a Nikon Coolpix A, and my Godox TT685N (for Nikon) does not fire when on the camera's hotshoe. Neither does a Godox radio transmitter. All my Godox TT685Ns (I have 4 of them) work fine on a D810, D800, and D5300, but not on the Coolpix A. However, a Nikon SB910 or an old SB25 work fine on the Coolpix A. The only thing I can think of is that the Godox can't sync with a leaf shutter. Anybody know why the Godox TT685N flash won't work on a Coolpix A?

Hi - has anyone here used the Mitsubishi CP-M1 at an event for a photo booth, etc..? Pros/Cons? Print quality (both color and B&W)? It weighs 30 pounds which is sort of a bummer, but I'm curious to know if anyone here has actually used it at a gig and made hundreds of prints with it. Thanks!

You're not handy at all? Don't bother opening the flash. Contact Quantum Instruments to see if they can fix it ( qtm [dot] com/repairs ) and ship it to them if they can work on it. You could get a nasty shock from the capacitor(s) if you don't know what you're doing, and since you don't know electronics diagnosing the faulty components in the first place isn't really possible. Good luck!

Wow. I know this thread is over a year old, but I owned an NVS-1, and the "strobe on a rope" bare bulb cable for it, and the "refluser" reflector/diffuser card. I also had Jon Falk’s book “Adventures in Location Lighting”. I was a photojournalism student at Indiana University’s Ernie Pyle School of Journalism, and graduated in 1993, and come to think of it, I think Falk was a guest speaker in one of my PJ classes. I don't remember why I sold that gear... Thanks for the trip down memory lane!

I used to send my Lumedyne batteries to a Batteries Plus location near me (Long Island, NY) where they would re-cell the battery units. Instead of soldering they have a device that will zap a metal tab to a cell without damaging the cell with heat (like a soldering iron can)... I don't remember what they called it. Anyway, the price was right and less of a hassle than doing it myself! But I sold all my Lumedyne stuff years ago when I realized the flash duration of the regular packs is SO LONG that I was losing a significant amount of exposure when syncing at 1/250th of a second shutter speed. This also means that the Lumedyne gear really can't freeze action unless you invest in one of their special and expensive "Action" short flash duration packs (which also can't run off an AC adapter). Even portrait photos looked not as sharp or crisp as I would like when using the "regular" Lumedyne packs I owned, and I attribute that to the long flash duration. The AC adapter attaches to the bottom of a pack like a battery and it weighs a TON - lots of copper in that transformer. It does not shorten recycling speeds. The Lumedyne system also does not have a radio receiver built into it. You have to attach (tape, rubber band, Velcro, etc.) a PocketWizard receiver to the flash head where the sync port is located. It's sort of kludgey... The Lumedyne modeling lamp is a joke - only useful in a dark room, and only certain flash heads have a modeling lamp. The switch for the lamp is on the head so if the head is out of reach on a tall stand or boom you're out of luck. Honestly, if you need a portable battery powered light system, I'd look at Elinchrom Ranger, various Godox/Flashpoint units, and Alien Bees (with their Li-Ion battery) - all of which have shorter flash durations and all of which have some sort of radio system baked in. Heck, you can do a lot with just speedlights too. Just my 2 cents...

Expose for the skin (in this case maybe +1 stop with a spot meter). Bring the subject to the edge of the shady area so light from the ground kicks up into the subject. No fill light or reflector needed.

Thanks for your help, Michael! My web searches kept returning Smugmug, Pixieset, Shootproof, etc. and I wanted to know what else is out there.

Hi, I do some school portrait photography, and I'm interested in having an online photo gallery to sell prints to families of the students. However, I require a gallery where each student's photos are private. In other words, a gallery where each family can only see photos of their student, not the rest of the class. I suppose this would require a unique login code for each student. Does anybody know what software or online service companies like Lifetouch, Fox's School Portraits, Stomping Ground use to keep a student's photos separate from everyone else's?

In no particular order: Image Processing Applications / Software ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++ AKA: alternatives to Photoshop +++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Pixelmator Pixelmator Pro CameraBag RAW RAW Therapee DxO Optics Pro 10 Paint.net ON1 Photo 10 Pixlr Editor Serif Affinity Photo GIMP Capture 1 Corel PaintShop Pro X8 Corel AfterShot Pro 3 ACD Systems ACDSee Pro 6 and ACDSee Photo Editor MacPhun Luminar 1.0 and Luminar 2018 MacPhun Creative Kit 2016 PhotoScape Fotor Picasa Inkscape Alien Skin Software Exposure X2 Cyberlink PhotoDirector 7 Zoner Photo Studio 18 Aftershot Pro Topaz Labs - many products, many plugins The Best Photography Software for 2017 is... Best photo editing software in 2017 | TechRadar ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++ AKA: alternatives to Lightroom +++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Photo Mechanic Version 5 Cyberlink PhotoDirector 8 Ultra XnView MP Darktable darktable | the photo workflow software ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Stick with the 70-200mm f2.8 if you can't afford the Sigma 100-300mm f2.8 or you don't want to sell your 100-400mm. However, the reason to use f2.8 lenses isn't only for low-light night games, it's also to isolate the action against the background with shallow DOF even during day games. So shoot at f2.8 even during the day. I don't know the cost of the Sigma VS how much you'd get for the 100-400, but I would take the Sigma 100-300 over the slower 100-400 even if it means using a monopod which is pretty standard practice for long lens sideline photography. http://tomweisphoto.com/Z/forum_photos/20170719_NYCFC_VS_TorontoFC_(Tom-Weis)_17.JPG

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++ Alternatives to Photoshop +++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Pixelmator Pixelmator Pro CameraBag RAW RAW Therapee DxO Optics Pro 10 Paint.net ON1 Photo 10 Darktable darktable | the photo workflow software Pixlr Editor Serif Affinity Photo GIMP Capture 1 Corel PaintShop Pro X8 Corel AfterShot Pro 3 ACD Systems ACDSee Pro 6 and ACDSee Photo Editor MacPhun Luminar 1.0 MacPhun Creative Kit 2016 PhotoScape Fotor Picasa Inkscape Alien Skin Software Exposure X2 Cyberlink PhotoDirector 7 Zoner Photo Studio 18 Aftershot Pro Topaz Labs - many products, many plugins The Best Photography Software for 2017 is... Best photo editing software in 2017 | TechRadar ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++ Alternatives to Lightroom +++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Photo Mechanic Version 5 Cyberlink PhotoDirector 8 Ultra XnView MP ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++