tom_boston1

<p>Nikon's i-TTL mode uses one pre-flash to evaluate exposure and a second flash to make the actual exposure. That might be what you are perceiving.</p> <p>Occasionally, if someone in a group photo has a very quick blink reflex, the pre-flash will trigger a blink that shows up on almost every exposure. Either Flash Value lock or Manual exposure are the usual work-arounds for this issue.</p>

<p><br />@Henry - Peter noted that this box did not have the usual B&H tape on the outside. Any comment on how that might have occurred? Is it possible that the box broke during shipping and UPS replaced the box?<br /><br />If B&H stopped using the prominent B&H tape to seal the boxes, that might not be a bad thing. The tape is well enough known that boldly declares "Expensive Camera Equipment Inside"<br /><br />@Sarah who said: "I was hoping the OP was an isolated mishap but now there are two." - So now it's two isolated mishaps. It still isolated. Keep in mind that thousands of packages have been received with no problems by the people reading this thread.<br /><br />@Ray who said: "I think this works sufficiently 95% or more of the time, but for those of us who receive expensive items that way it may be a little unnerving, especially if the outside of the manufacturer's box is damaged" - Since the manufacturer's boxes are designed to be shippable, they probably work far more than 95% of the time.</p>

<p>"Authorized Photo Service" is the place in Morton Grove, IL.<br />"Authorized Camera Repair" is the place in Willow Grove, PA.</p> <p>I'll +1 Morton Grove because I've used them several times but with no prejudice against the Willow Grove place.</p> <p>Does Nikon in Melville still work on the F100? I figure it would have passed its service life by now.</p>

<p>The original image is not available anymore, but is this sounds like the "purple band" problem. Definitely not a bad sector on the card as I've seen one instance of this occurring on dual cards in the camera. And the embedded jpeg has an identical corruption as the processed raw which further suggests the issue is inside the camera and not the card.</p>

<p>I already use Authorized Photo Service and also praise them regularly.</p> <p>Something I recently heard and was trying to confirm was that Nikon authorized repair centers have to provide serial numbers to order genuine Nikon parts.</p> <p>If this is the case, then yes, keeping a supply of genuine Nikon grey market parts makes perfect sense.</p> <p>If an authorized service center works on grey market equipment, do they risk losing their authorized service center status? I suspect not. It wouldn't be any different than an authorized retailer selling grey market. But I'm trying to confirm.</p> <p>I have a call into APS and will update this thread when I hear back from them. The person I needed to speak with was busy with a customer.</p>

<p>Are authorized repair centers allowed to order genuine Nikon parts to repair grey market equipment?<br /> <br /> I saw a claim that ordering parts requires providing a US serial number. But that doesn't make sense to me because it doesn't work if an authorized repair station stocks parts.<br /> <br /> Is it even legal for Nikon to prevent repairs to grey market cameras like this?<br /> <br /> I'd give more weight to what I read here than to most other sources on the internet.</p>

<p>I have the same kind of thing going on with a different species. Shaded backyard. Lots of green lawn reflecting. D810 with 500/4 at ISO 800, 1/500", f/8.0 and a decent amount of cropping.</p> <p>Original white balance was too green. Corrected against the breast here.</p> <p>Maybe there's some physical characteristic of the feathers beneath the chin that cause it to reflect light differently. Or maybe it's just the angle of the reflection.</p> <p>I don't think this species has natural coloration like this. Unfortunately, the bird was not still enough or close enough to inspect closely.</p> <p>The effect would be less noticeable if I corrected the underexposure.</p><div></div>

<p>The problem is that the subjects are out of focus. When the flash head is not bounced (i.e. in the straight ahead direction) Nikon's Creative Light System depends heavily on focus distance information to calculate flash output.<br /><br />The focus landed further away than your subjects so the camera system calculated flash output based on that further distance. I've seen this happen a number of times and always figured it's part of what the D means (distance) in 3D matrix metering.</p>

<p>The F100 is $100 USD at keh.com - They don't seem to carry the F50 or F80. That should tell you something about the relative value of the bodies.<br /><br />I had the F100 sticky grip problem too. I thought I was brilliant cleaning it by wrapping the surfaces with clear shipping tape and "peeling" off the stickiness. But maybe taking it out of the box was the only thing that fixed it.</p>

<p>Exactly how large is a "large cache" of photos? A cheap flat bed scanner might have higher resolution, but a DSLR will copy each image 50x to 100x faster. <br /><br />Some sheets of polarizing filters in front of the video lights might help reduce reflections off the photos. But mounting lights at a 45 degree angle will help that too.</p> <p>If you only have a couple of hours with the photos, a good DSLR setup might be the way to go.</p> <p> </p>

<p>In my experience, NiMH rechargeables work fine in the MB-D12 (D800/D810, 8 cells) and the MB-D15 (D7100, 6 cells) as well as the MB-D10 (D700, 8 cells). The setup menus for all of these cameras have a setting to tell the camera what kind of AA cell is installed in the grip. Nikon wouldn't provide this menu setting if NiMH batteries weren't compatible.</p> <p>In addition, the NiMH cells are quite capable of providing increased frame rates for those bodies that support it (D810, D700)</p> <p>Norbert misspoke, perhaps due to a language barrier, when he said "nimh rechargable batteries it usually is about 15% less of power than it is supposed to be." - Working NiMH batteries provide exactly the voltage they are supposed to provide. The peak voltage when new or freshly charged might be less than alkaline cells (~1.4 vs. ~1.6) but the power curve and total amount of power available from NiMH cells is favorable. If I use alkaline cells in the grip, they are last far less than NiMH cells do.<br> <br> I've no doubt that the Sanyo Eneloop batteries are up to the task in your MB-D14.<br> </p>

<p>Regarding lens #2 above, I wonder if the tape over the focus scale window suggests the lens had this repair done (loose internal ribbon cable blocking autofocus at close ranges)<br /><br /><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VmNfT3MhdM&noredirect=1">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VmNfT3MhdM&noredirect=1</a><br> <br />I recently took my old 80-200 out of its case and it no longer focuses closer than 7 or 8 meters. I don't know how endemic that loose ribbon cable is, but I think it's the issue that I have with my lens. I haven't tried to fix it yet though.</p>

<p>Shun, this isn't how I was planning to ship a lens. This is how a lens was shipped to me.<br> <br />I think it was a good price. And the trunk did arrive intact. Of more concern is whether the trunk case provided sufficient protection to the lens. Is hidden damage that I won't find until later possible?<br> <br /> Thanks for your input!</p>

<p>And if the cushioning is dimpled a little bit, that's how it protects the equipment. Should I get the cushions replaced? Thanks!</p><div></div>

<p>Lots of extra space in the outer box does not matter because the CT-504 is so protective.</p><div></div>