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tim_hodges

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  1. <p>Sorry I meant to say I DON'T want to lug all this equipment around!</p>
  2. <p>I have been using the Canon M range for some time now. I currently have a Canon M3 with an EVF with which I am very happy.<br> As a professional I have a 5DS and a 5D MkIII for my work, but when I go on holiday I just want to lug all this equipment around. So as a travel camera it meets my needs. I take four lenses, 11-22, 22mm, 18-55 and 55-200mm and the whole lot goes neatly into a small messenger type bag, along with a light manfrotto monopod.<br> I sometimes take a 50mm 1.4 prime with an adapter and/or a 200mm 2.8.<br> I am waiting to get my hands on a M5 to see if it is worth the upgrade.<br> The M3 has a metal body compared to the M5 which has a plastic body.<br> The M3 EVF swivels to a vertical position<br> The inbuilt flash is the same power.<br> The main difference with the M5 apart from the inbuilt EVF, is the Digic 7 processing and dual pixel autofocus.<br> I will say though, with the EVF eyepiece removed, makes the system with a pancake 22mm lens, quite compact and very good for street photography as onlookers think you just have an upmarket compact, whereas you have a wolf in sheep's clothing so to speak.<br> The perception I have is that some people are damming the product without giving it a go. OK it is not a sports machine or a camera designed to take birds in flight but as a travel companion it is ideal in my humble opinion.<br> Both the M3 and the M5 will fill this role admirably</p> <div></div>
  3. <p>Whilst I appreciate (and respect)Bob Atkins view, I have found that the M3 coupled with the 22mm f2 lens, makes a super set up for street photography. It doesn't draw attention either. The M3 body plus EVF cost UK £350 direct from Japan. The lenses and adaptor can be picked up fairly cheaply.</p>
  4. <p>The EOS M3 is a great little bit of kit. It makes a super travel camera and the the lenses are not all bad.<br> I had the EOS M before so I just I got the body and EVF kit from Japan. The EVF which makes a huge difference.<br> I have all three M lenses and when I go on my travels, besides these lenses, I take my regular 85mm 1.8 lens plus adapter, which works really well.<br> Focussing has improved and whilst it is being criticised, mainly by people who just read the specs, the M3 is a superb addition to Canon's lineup.<br> Tim</p>
  5. <p>Thanks for your interest thus far. Of course Bob is right that the 7D MkII is the main for the job in sports.....however what about using a 5DS with a 135mm lens f2 to shoot a small subject in the distance, where you would normally use a 300mm telephoto lens.<br> The advantage here is that you could get away with a much lighter lens by using a high crop rate to get the picture you need.<br> OK in theory I suppose, but what are downsides to this hypothetical proposal?<br> Thanks Tim</p>
  6. <p>Hi, this question really follows on from Bob Atkins excellent preview of the Canon 5DS and 5DS-R models.<br> It is a hypothetical one.<br> If I was doing sport photography I would use a Canon 1DX plus a 300mm 2.8 IS lens. An awesome combination but at a price.<br> I could get away with a EOS 5DMkIII in place of the 1DX at a pinch.<br> I could also use a Canon 5DS with a 70-200mm lens and do a heavy crop to match the reach of the 300mm 2.8 lens which will be much cheaper<br> What i would like to know is how would the cropped images compare, in terms of quality, with a full frame image achieved using a 300mm lens, <br> I do not want to get into any augments about focus tracking or shutter bursts - I just want to establish whether this is a feasible option.<br> The Canon 5DS and 5DS-R can be used to take smaller RAW files as does the 5D MkIII so it is versatile in this respect.<br> I look forward to your responses with interests.<br> Tim</p>
  7. <p>Thank you Frode- that is most helpful. It seems that Photoshop has a slightly more intuitive screen than Lightoom and I think this has cracked the problem.<br> Many thanks<br> Tim</p>
  8. <p>Thanks for responses thus far. I am using Lightroom. My custom page is defined correctly. The image is surrounded by a border which I created in photoshop. The image is centralised using photoshop.</p>
  9. <p>This may appeal to those with a mathematical bent!<br> I have brought some photorag greeting cards which are 420 x 148.5 mm with a vertical fold<br> When they folded they measure 210 x 148.5 mm.<br> I have an Epson 3800 printer<br> My task is to print a 7.5 x 5 inch (190.5 x 127mm) image on a greeting card centrally on the greeting card with an equal border all the way round.<br> Now when I load the card I know that Epson cannot do borderless printing for this paper-size. Instead it reduces the image size to 96%<br> It also seems to want to put an 8mm border on the long edge and a 3mm border on the short edges <br> Try as I may I cannot do get the image centered.<br> How do I achieve this?<br> Tim</p>
  10. Thanks for taking time to respond. I know that in reality one cannot tell the difference say between ISO 100 and 200 and high ISO 's say, 1600 and 3200 deliver amazing results when the situation demands that sort of low light capability. I was just really interested in the theory without trying to be a pixel peeper. I will ask Canon. Many thanks again Tim
  11. <p>Can anyone tell me if what is the best ISO to use to get the best image quality on a Canon 5D MkIII?<br> I think it is ISO100 but a friend reckons it is ISO200 which is the same as Nikon.<br> Thanks<br> Tim</p>
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