thomas_goehler

and be sure to only use it when the lens is NOT in the A position!!!!

Use one of the various Canon EOS M models plus a cheap adaptor for 10 bucks and you will be happy.

You might want to check Foto Hügle in Dessau.

Canon AE-1 (black), FD 1.8/50mm SC (Chrome nose), Arista EDU 200

I have been using my FD lenses very successfully on EOS M bodies with a cheap China-made adaptor. I guess, there will be soon adaptors like this for EOS R too.

sorry, wrong thread

Image quality is defined by the lenses, not by the bodies. So if you want more or better quality, you must invest in lenses.

Don't forget that due to the crop factor of 1.6x a 35mm lens will perform like a 56mm on an APS-C system such as the wonderful M5. if you want the same angle like the 35mm shows you on FF, I'd recommend the EF-M 2/22mm. In case, you knew all this, just disregard my posting.

Of course they did, see the reply just above yours. The EF 2/35mm IS USM is the latest version, replacing the old one from the late 80s/early 90s. It is a truly great lens with a stellar performance and very fast AF.

Why not get an EOS M body? The M10 is very cheap at the moment. The FD to EF-M adapter sells for around 15 bucks on ebay and then you can use all your FD glass without any problems. The attached photo was shot with an EOS M plus the FD 2.8/135mm.

<p><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/364/32212410406_6d733a5fb1_c.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="649" /></p>

<p>The Exa 1C wasn't manufactured in the 1970s, but from 1985-87 and it was the last Exa to be built. And my one has a lever for film transport.</p>

<p>Can you check whether the aperture-check lever is engaged? It's the lever to the left of the lens if you have got the cam in your hand with the lens pointing away from you. It should not pe pushed towards the lens.</p>

<p>If it was an L lens, it'd say "L" on the front ring. It's as simple as that.<br> I own the nFD 1,2/50mm without the L and I'm pretty happy with it. I find it a little better than the 1.4 vesrion I had before, but perhaps that difference is rather academic.</p>

<p>Actually, removing the mirror foam particles is no big deal. Take a Q-tip, soak it with alcohol from the dugstore and gently swipe across the remnants of the mirror foam. Make sure that nothing falls onto the focusing screen should you hold the camera upside down. Replacing the mirror bumper with new material might be a bit trickier, but perhaps you have somebody to help you so that you do not have to pay a lot for something that actually takes about 10 minutes with material worth less than 5 bucks.</p>