thomas_bruce_dyrud

<blockquote> <p ><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=361342">Andrew Rodney</a><a href="/member-status-icons"><img title="Subscriber" src="/v3graphics/member-status-icons/sub10plus.gif" alt="" /><img title="Frequent poster" src="/v3graphics/member-status-icons/1roll.gif" alt="" /></a>, Jul 21, 2015; 06:32 p.m.</p> <p>If you scan color, then yes, ProPhoto is what you want! Here's why:<br /><em>The benefits of wide gamut working spaces on printed output</em><br /><em>This three part, 32 minute video covers why a wide gamut RGB working space like ProPhoto RGB can produce superior quality output to print. </em><br /><em>Part 1 discusses how the supplied Gamut Test File was created and shows two prints output to an Epson 3880 using ProPhoto RGB and sRGB, how the deficiencies of sRGB gamut affects final output quality. Part 1 discusses what to look for on your own prints in terms of better color output. It also covers Photoshop’s Assign Profile command and how wide gamut spaces mishandled produce dull or over saturated colors due to user error. </em><br /><em>Part 2 goes into detail about how to print two versions of the properly converted Gamut Test File file in Photoshop using Photoshop’s Print command to correctly setup the test files for output. It covers the Convert to Profile command for preparing test files for output to a lab.</em><br /><em>Part 3 goes into color theory and illustrates why a wide gamut space produces not only move vibrant and saturated color but detail and color separation compared to a small gamut working space like sRGB. </em><br /><em>High Resolution Video: <a href="http://digitaldog.net/files/WideGamutPrintVideo.mov" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://digitaldog.net/files/WideGamutPrintVideo.mov</a></em><br /><em>Low Resolution (YouTube): </blockquote> Thank you! Very helpful. But I'm mainly scanning b&w negatives thats why I asked if "grey" was ok to use as a colour space or if I'm better off with one of the others :) <blockquote> <p ><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=4575983">peter carter</a><a href="/member-status-icons"><img title="Subscriber" src="/v3graphics/member-status-icons/sub7.gif" alt="" /></a>, Jul 21, 2015; 08:41 p.m.</p> <p>The option is under the filter tab, in professional mode.</p> </blockquote> Yes I know, but the option is not there anymore when scanning b&w negatives. It only shows up when I'm in colour negative or positive mode :)

<p>Thanks for your reply.<br> There is no option to turn on or off infrared scan in Vuescan when scanning b&w negatives. Only in color negatives and positives. I just got a new computer and it makes two passes on the new one with software and driver newly installed aswell.<br> By using "grey" as colour profile do I loose some informtion or editing ability in Lightroom or Photoshop compared to Adobe RGB or Pro Photo RGB or is it better since the negatives are b&w. In Photoshop it says that the profile is called Gray Gamma 2.2<br> Thanks for helping!</p>

<p>Hi<br> I've been scanning for about a year now and I think I'm starting to get a hang of it. There is still some things I'm not sure about. One is what colour space should I use when I output? I tried to goole, but there is so many different answers. At the moment I use colour space "grey". Is this ok or should I use Adobe RGB or Pro Photo RGB? I output as a "TIFF file" and have the "TIFF profile" checked. Is it important to have the "TIFF profile" checked? I was trying to get a gamma of 2.2.<br> I use Lightroom CC to edit my scans.<br> I recently upgraded from an Epson V600 to a Plustek Opticfim 120 and when I scan my b&w negatives Vuescan always scan the negative twice. Is this normal? I can't remember Vuescan doing that with the Epson V600. I have "multi pass" and "multi exposure" turned off. I can't uncheck infrared when in 16bit grey so I assume that it is turned off.<br> Hope someone can help.<br> Thanks!</p> <p>Thomas</p>

<p>Hi<br> I have a Plustek Opticfilm 8200i and just got a Plustek Opticfilm 120. The Plustek 120 have the possibility to batch scan two strips of six 35mm negatives compared to the manual Plustek 8200i. It would be really nice to speed up my workflow, but not to loose any resolution. My question is would I be loosing or gaining any resolution with the Plustek 120 when it comes to 35mm?<br> It says on Plusteks website that the 8200i have an optical resolution of 7200dpi and the Plustek 120 have an optical resolution of 5300dpi and input resolution of 10600dpi with output resolution of 5300dpi.</p> <p>I know that they do not produce that much resolution, but if I get better or the same resolution out of the negatives from the Plustek 120 it would be nice. I tried scanning and seeing by eye, but i find it hard to se the differences so if anybody knows and would like to help me with an answer I will be very happy :)</p> <p>I also have a related question about the Plustek 120. Should I scan at 10600dpi and output 5300dpi or scan at 5300dpi and output 5300dpi. Is it the same, better or worse?<br> I use Vuescan (newest version)</p> <p>That you very much for your help!<br> Thomas</p>

<blockquote> <p ><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=686984">Jonathan Reynolds</a> , Feb 22, 2015; 12:13 p.m.</p> <p>I had this same issue a couple of years ago. I don't have it now. The only change I have made to my processing is that I now filter the fixer (after dilution), as well as the final wash water with its added wetting agent. I'm pretty sure either the fix or the wetting agent was growing tiny crystals in the bottle of concentrate.<br> I hope this helps. The problem was especially noticeable with Delta 100 for some reason.</p> </blockquote> <p>That helps a lot! Thanks. Will also start filtering my fixer. I had crystals on the bottle. Some of them could have fallen in to the fixer. Any good suggestions to how I go about filtering? Do I have to buy some special equipment?<br> I also have some rolls of rollei infrared film. Is it ok to store them at room temperture aswell?<br> Thanks for all your help!! Hopefully some of the suggestions you gave me will eliminate the problem :)</p>

<p>Ok. Thanks! I took my film out of the fridge today. Hopefully there will be no more issues from now on :)</p> <p>My house can sometimes get very warm inside in the summer. I live in Norway and the summers are usually not very warm, but the last couple of summers there have been tempertures around 35-37 C and in some rooms in my house been at least 30 C :) I'll find a spot where it's not too bad.<br> Thanks for all your help!<br> Not sure if I should throw away the film that was in the fridge.... :( I get so disappointed when I end up with ruined pictures. No sure I wanna take the chance...</p>

<p>Ok. Thanks for the info. I will start storing my films at room temperture from now on. My fridge is one that is custom built into the kitchen by the previous owner and there is a large fan that is always dripping water so I think the moisture in that fridge is very high. </p> <p>I mostly shoot BW film, but also some slide and colour. Is it ok to store slide film in tempertures between 15-30 C , and colour negatives?</p> <p>Thanks for helping!</p>

<p>No I do not reuse chemicals and I use a Paterson Tank with a Paterson Force Film Washer to wash my film. I also use Photo-flo wetting agent.<br> My film is medium format stored in my fridge unopened in a supposedly air tight box with cilica gel balls to keep it dry. My fridge has a bit of moisture though.... I'm new to film only done it for little over a year. Is it ok to store my negatives at room temperture? And for how long is that ok? Room temperture various from +18 C to +25 C depending on if its summer or winter.</p>

<p>Using water straghit out of the tap. The water is very clean where I live.</p>

<p>Hi<br> I have a question regarding some strange white spots one my scanned negatives (i assume they are black on the actual negtives. I don't have a loupe so I can't really see them before I scan).<br> It only happens to some rolls and it has only happened to my 100 iso films like Delta 100 and FP4 plus, not my Delta 400 and HP5+ films. It started about a year ago. After several rolls that were just fine after development of Delta 100 some rolls started having these white spots and when trying to adjust the negatives in lightroom the looked awful and just changing slightly on some of the sliders in lightroom they started to break up/apart.<br> I could not figure out what I was doing wrong. I tried searching online but could not find any good answers. I tried with new chemicals and longer fixing and washing times but nothing helped. I then changed to FP4 plus and the problem was gone until a couple of months ago. Then the same thing happened to the FP4 plus rolls aswell, but not to the 400 iso films (delta and hp5+). <br> I tried refixing and washing but that didn't work. Same with new and old chemicals.</p> <p>How I develop my negatives:<br> (I use the massivedev chart app)<br> 1.Presoak - 1min<br> 2.Develop HC110 - 1+32<br> 3. Ilford/Kodak rapid fixer - 7min<br> 4. Washing - 10-15min</p> <p>Here is a 100% crop - left side more contrast added:<br> <img src="http://s14.postimg.org/4pst1u369/problem_med_negativ.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>Hope someone can help me figure out how to fix this from happening again and if there is a way to save the negatives I've already developed.<br> Thanks for your help!<br> Thomas</p>