t.g._lewis

<p>I love shooting video with my D7000, but something like dance in a theater, a dslr is going to be seriously over-matched, IMHO.<br> Been shooting dance for $ since the days of tube cameras/vhs porta-pack recorders. I curently run a Sony EX3 with a Canon 18x lens for my follow shot and a Sony EX1 for my wide set shot. I run both cameras into a Panasonic HMX-100 sdi HD switcher real time, and record on a Panasonic HMR-10 sd card recorder. Just started using a Zoom H5 recorder as an audio mixer (feels like cheating, but it's sweeeeet).<br> I put a cardioid hand mic with a Sennheiser snap-on transmitter laid right on the stage to pick up the taps and any yips and yaps from the dancers.<br> I get a line-out from the house for the music, arranged for with the sound guy days before.<br> I run a cardioid on top of the EX1 for applause and a plan B, if things go seriously South. And yes, it all goes into the H5, and I output from the aux out to the Panny switcher. Was using a Mackie 804, but the H5 fits in my dang pocket!<br> BUT all this is really heavy and expensive, and YOU could nicely fit a used, low-hours EX1, sourced from Ebay, for under $2k, learn how to program it through googling, get a GOOD tripod made for video, and put a Sony as 200 action cam right next to the stage and get a cool angle for adding in post. Or not. Single-cam works well if you do it right; you're always following the dancers, making sure they're all always in frame, and your frame only as wide as it needs to be. The EX1 has a friendly lens, and you'd still have money for a Vari-zoom back zoom control. You'll also want an MxM sd card adaptor and some fast, big-a$$ sd cards as Sony's SxS card media is still, uh, not cheap. But be warned: Sony EXs record an MXF file type, and not all editors can use it.<br> And learn how to white-balance manually. Stage/theater lighting can go as low 2,000K, and now upwards of 7,000K if they're using leds, and sometimes in the course of the same flippin' show...</p>

<p>I highly recommend the Rode Stereo Pro; I call it my little black tennis ball. Had it for about 3 years, and I use it a bunch of different ways--including putting it on a boom stand, balancing the feed with their nifty mini to xlr adaptor, and running 30 ft. of xlr cord back to my Sony EX3. Killer job of picking up 3 seated interview subjects.<br> I use it with a Sennheiser snap-on transmitter to mic the stage for dramatic plays.<br> For a dslr, it's got the got the right plug (stereo mini), it's self-powered (9v), has a low-cut filter, and a three-position output level switch. It's also decently cardioid in pattern, but yeah, if it's in the hotshoe, it picks up lens movement noise--or heavy breathing--but not bad. They also have a short mini to mini extention cord to move a bit away if you've got a rig.<br> I own about thirty different mics, and the Rode's my favorite. It's not cheap, but you get what you pay for. <br> And no, I don't own stock. I do, however, do a fairly decent Aussie accent...</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hello! First post here; just joined a moment ago. I've shot a fair amount (many hours actually) of video on a D7000, somewhat similar to your D750. This is what I would suggest: Set shutter speed to 1/30, start with the lowest F-stop you can, and start with your ISO as low as possible. In direct sunlight, this may be tough and you might consider using an ND filter. Go to "live view" and see what you're getting for brightness. Half-press the shutter button and see if the picture brightens substantially as it tries to find focus (yes you're in AF while you're doing this). This temporary level of brightness is now your target for bringing up your ISO a step at a time to get the "brightness" of the video close to where it should be. When you get to the point where the brightness is pretty much the same or just a skosh darker, when you half-press the shutter release, you're close enough for rock'n roll. Now set your focus back to manual, and use the + button while in live view to zoom in (it's actually cropping in) on your subject and make sure it's razor sharp, then use the - button to crop back out and set your frame.<br> Now the BIG SECRET (well, not secret to Kirk Darling, apparently): Go into your favored Picture Control setting (I like portrait or standard) and set your sharpness AS LOW AS IT CAN GO. Trust me, the picture will still be plenty sharp. This takes away the electronic edge from the image, and is a huge improvement. Try this and I think you'll find that ANY increase in sharpness from the bottom setting is a step away from good looking footage. After that, I'd also take the contrast down one box, but again, this is all based on my experience with the D7000.<br> Beyond that, take it out and test. Lots and lots of testing with increasing/decreasing the rest of the settings in Picture Control, and see how you like the results. And as Matthew McManamey mentioned above, make sure you're looking at your images on a good HD TV, as well as a computer monitor.<br> Also, back off your subject, and then zoom in for composition, as much as possible to allow for a nicely soft background. You want your focal plane on your subject, and everything else should be soft. This is huge part of the "film look". And if you really want your footage to pop, you're going to have light it... That part of film making hasn't changed.</p>