steven_p

I have used both 70-300, af-s and af-p lenses. The FX p model is very good, but it is non-functional on a lot of older Nikons. It will work on a 2007, 12mp D300, but not a D3200, D5200/24mp body. There is also a lot of poly carb in the lens makeup of the P lens. I honestly dislike it because it feels so light & cheap. It is like a giant 18-55 with a metal lens mount. Optics and focus speed make the af-p FX imo the better choice.

I have to walk that one back. The streetwalker pack was flimsy and a pain. I later realized that I have a couple ThinkTank, holsters, for pro bodies. They are excellent.

If the thinktanks’ you mentioned are anything like their streetwalker bags, I would stay away from those, as far possible.

I have the oldest version of a Nikon 500/f4. With age and health, I need a bit of help carrying this beautiful bugger. There is the Tamrac 5793 and the Lowepro 600aw, ( and possibly more.) Which is better or are they a waste of effort? A somewhat comfortable pack allows a free hand to schlep a set of monster legs. Thank you, in advance.

I have used the original BR2 on film and digital bodies and have yet to damage any of the camera body connection pins. I sometimes use a Vivitar bellows, full rig, PB5, look-a-like. It has a convertible copy stand and attachments for slide and 35mm roll copying. (If you would like to see maximum coverage and larger than 1:1, a 24mm, reversed is difficult, but doable.)

My old Ai'd 24mm NC, has been in my MF bag for many, many years. I've had the 2.8D version also, but is rarely used.. The NC 24 always produced good IQ. Banking on a slight improvement, I purchased the "Last Revision, Ai version, which so far has me scratching my head. It isn't near as good in many circumstances. My informal sharpness test involves focusing on a pill bottle at 10-20 feet. My test target had a blue cast stage light with a 6 watt LED bulb and a blue gel (night light) along with ample natural light. The multicoating on the newer 24 and several others that seem to have similar coating cause a distorted blue glow, and shows much less sharpness and contrast. The old 24 handles blue light, fine. Outdoors the corners are better on the older lens, also. My old 24 is dry and screeches when focused, and I thought a pretty all black version would be an improvement in all regards. I mainly like to stay with MF lenses that have a generous focus throw. The later Ais progression of 24's are more difficult to focus manually. What have you used? Which one do you like best. I am mainly using the MF Nikkors on a DF. Thank you in advance.

With the speed of whatever OS and solid state drives, I just drag & drop the NEF's into a temporary folder on the desktop & import to LR from there. OTOH, with the smaller files from the DF, does it really matter? (I'm in the same boat.) My DF is a new camera that I was curious about since it was released. I love it. I had to add a 20mm, and then sorted through all my old MF lenses. I have a separate sack of MF primes, ranging from 20mm to 300mm and pretend I'm back in my FM2/Nikkormat days.

Actually, I have many good batteries. I have 2 chargers, & rotate batteries. The camera(s) are a power hog, but I can get 100+ shots on one battery. The Canon version of the old Kodak is a lot more responsive than my Nikon version. With Firmware 5.4.9, (last beta,) the camera reads a Compact Flash, 32gb Lexar X1066, & I'm getting maximum write speed. I recently frugal, acquired an old Canon 20-35. Online crap says this lens is a dog, but I am quite fine with the IQ Question; (Instead of another top post.) Most lenses I have to keep them mounted pulled counter clockwise, to maintain auto focus & lens info. Which pin on the body is the lens identifier, or perhaps the "ground" pin that couples with the lens?

I think I may track down a Tokina 17-35. (It's excellent on my Nikon.) What's funny, I have a bunch of middle range zooms. When I carry light, a 17-35 and a 70-200 is all that's really needed. (I usually throw a macro in there too. On the Kodak, when using flash in aperture priority mode, it doesn't jump the shutter speed to 1/60, like my Nikons. Is this Canon normal? My little 3rd party flash shows aperture info but doesn't fire. An old Vivitar 285 works fine using the old method of using the flashes sensor.. The camera is in excellent, almost non-used condition. It only has 8K clicks.

Long time Nikon only sort of guy. As the title says.....I got my hands on one of these old dinosaurs. I have the Nikon version and they are quite different. What is a good, frugal choice for a 24 - ? Zoom? I have a 28-80 and a 75-300, slow kit type lenses, but I'm a wide guy. What makes these camera's somewhat special is the sensor. It's only 4500 X 3000 pixels, but Kodak put some kind of "special sauce," making the IQ very, very film like. It's hard to describe. Thank you, in advance.

I forgot to mention, hand held manual focusing the 80-200 is near bliss. I have also discovered that the rear element of the lens is stationary. (I cannot pump up the tires on the Cannondale with my 80-200.)

I loved the output of my D300. It was difficult to get an unsharp image with the now, much outdated lens combos of the time. The 12-24's, 18-70, 16-85 and later to higher end telephotos & Micro lenses. All were wonderful. I thought back then, if they made a 24mp/FX body, with build quality that had IQ similar to the D300, that would be my gold standard. In my case I purchased quite frugally, a D3 with with the "x," suffix. No, it's not high ISO friendly, but Nikon put some kind of secret sauce into the thing that ISO 100-1600 has a bit of an artistic look/quality. I looked back at many different cameras that had unrealistic high price tags. I have a Kodak slr/N, the "x" and a Canon G1x/version 1. The two DSLR's are extremely long dated, however all have an IQ not quite explainable. Though my go to rig is a D800, if I could only own one it would be the D3x. Yes.... Shun me. I deserve it. I had a bad run with several camera bodies when the D300 rave was over. Maybe I'm allergic to plastics, tilt & touch screens and SD cards. Ten cents on the dollar for the cost of a once, $8k Nikon or $5K Kodak is well enough to keep this old man quite delighted. (And when the tool feels right there is no longer any worry or fuss about a new tool.)

Always finding an excuse not to lug the Nikon 70-200VR because of it's length. It screwed up almost every bag I liked. On a whim, I picked up an old push-pull Nikon 80-200/2.8/Non-D boat anchor. "It's a few inches shorter." Used correctly it's sharper across the whole frame, even at 2.8. Question; I think it's not advisable, but is it safe to mount it to a D800 without a support yoke on a tripod? By the serial number, this lens is close to 30 years old, and aside from minimal dust, the innards are perfect. Thank you Nikon. Every now and then your backwards technology saved me from spending $K's of dollars. <humor>

I know it's a big inconvenience, but an SB600-800's can be had for low costs nowadays. Have you tried an external flash? Heck, even most of the old Vivitar 285's have a low sync voltage. Using the flash's dial in aperture setting works well in close distance settings. (I bought an old relic that doesn't have a built in pop up flash, & that "boondoggles" my sense of normal every time i use it.)

My old 135, non-Ai, converted....the blades stuck wide open a long time ago. I bought 2 (perfect) 135's and both were full of cobweb fungus. I ended up buying a Series 1, 135/2.3. I would love to play with a DC 135/2, but it's a bit out of my tax bracket. I have the old 200/4 in my Nikon F sack. It's too pretty to Ai the darned thing. mark4583|1, (It looks like you are playing my Gretsch.)