steve_mutchler

I had not really considered all the time it might take....I was thinking in terms of a feed tray....drop in 36 punch the button and come back after lunch... But from the comments above....I think it might be a LOT of lunches...:)...... Has anyone used any of the commercial slide scanning operations.... Slide Scanning Service For example....49 cents per slide.....1000 slides is $500 bucks and I'm not doing the work.... Thoughts...???

I remember the Reponars...had one in my lab back in the day....worked pretty good.... So...in answer to the various questions.... I do want high quality.....I have some images I would like to blow up to 16x20 or thereabouts... The Imacon Flextight is not in the budget...whew... I have a Canon flatbed scanner...9000f...older unit....it does great on flat art but when I tried it with some slides the results were not up to my expectations..... Maybe I need to modify my expectations..... Here's where I come from... I used to own a commercial photo lab....specializing in photo composing...this was before Photoshop was invented....worked in all formats from 8x10 down to 35mm...Made internegatives and had the capacity to do a lot of masking.....which I could actually sharpen an image somewhat with the application of a b/w mask....highlight masks etc......so my expectations are rather high..... But my budget is rather low...:)..... Now I realize that the technology has made a HUGE change over the years.....What we used to get out of a Nikon Coolscan....or even the bigger Nikon models is not up to the levels that some of this equipment puts out today.... Does anyone have any experience with this model or similar... https://www.amazon.com/Plustek-OpticFilm-Digitizer-Resolution-Photograph/dp/B009PHCWL4/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=p4kbt&pf_rd_p=067e8e18-34c5-4e6e-8c6c-a4d937ff3226&pf_rd_r=DA400EKD7FRR4FZM66N3&pd_rd_r=fccf7e07-3881-46ca-832f-af09768bed8b&pd_rd_wg=sMQ3J&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mi Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/Pacific-Image-PrimeFilm-Automatic-Scanner/dp/B07K2GCRRY/ref=sr_1_37?crid=2WMZZJG3395C3&keywords=film+scanner+35mm&qid=1648664535&s=electronics&sprefix=fillm+scanner%2Celectronics%2C85&sr=1-37 Three units I have been looking at.... If there are other film scanners available that are more "professional" I am not aware of them.....again for an old retired guy my budget is in the $5-600 range which means I cannot get the very best stuff.... Alan...I really like your b/w images....those are superb.....

Retired casual photographer with a few thousand slides I would like to scan... Back in the day when I was shooting the Nikon Cool Scan was pretty much cream of the crop.... I see used units in eBay for too much money....$1500 and up......and I'm not sure any of them had USB interface.... What are some of the upper level scanners available I should look at....??? Would like a pretty high resolution scan....at least to good quality 11x14.... Some kind of batch scanning....I would love to drop in 36 slides and turn it on and come back later.... Something like the Nikon scanners had in eliminating dust and scratches... Anything out there that "affordable".....say $5-600 or so... Many thanks Steve in St Louis

Thanks guys... 11" wide will do me....doubt I would print over 8x10 but 11" gives me the capacity to do so... I have an Epson XP-960....and while it gives me good photos...it's not the greatest... Or maybe I haven't found the right paper yet... Gonna take a look at the Canon Pro-200.... Gents...maybe suggestions on paper you like...??? Thanks again...

Newbie here....looking for suggestions... Friend of mine has an Epson P700 and uses Canson Infinity Platine Fibre Rag Paper to print b/w portraits.....the results are fantastic.... I can't afford the P700 and the $400 replacement inks....so I'm looking for something...well..."less".... A midrange photo printer...say a round $3-500...uses hi grade inks...I may use the same Canson paper... My work is a combination of color and b/w.... I use W10 and Photoshop....I have a Nikon DSLR....older one...shoots about a 4 Mb size.... So the equipment I have is not top notch....but it is what I have.... Any suggestions on printers to look at appreciated.... And it seems like Epson or Canon are the 2 brands....

Retired photographer...very retired....haven't touched a camera for about 15 years... But I have about 10,000 slides I would like to scan...well...not ALL of them but maybe pick a 1000 out of that... Need 35mm film scanner...nice if it works on W10...but I have older OS's I can use if I have to... Want good sharp scans...But I think the big deal is some kind of auto feed device... If I remember correctly...when the Nikon Coolscans came out....I think that was what they were called....there was a device we could attach and drop in a load of 36 slides turn it on and go have a beer... So....this is what I'm looking for.....what scanner choices do I have.... What do you recommend... Many thanks

I am probably spelling incorrectly...I've always pronounced the word starting with a "cl" but it might be a "chl"... anyway it's a term that Eastman Kodak used to describe the process of making duplicate transparencies in that if you compared and matched the two transparencies under one type of light, 3200k for example and then compared them under a different light source.y 5000k they would not match in color balance...this phenomenon was first noticed in the mid-1960's when Kodak developed the first film that you could make duplicate transparencies with...the film was developed in E3 chemistry....in late 1974 I started a business, D-Max Colorgraphics...a commercial photo processing lab...(long before digital)...and my principal product was making sized duplicate transparencies for ganged color separations...by now Kodak had switched to E6 development chemistry...It was Kodak's development of the duplicate transparency film that established the 5000k light source as the standard for comparing all color photos... I assume with digital new terms have been established to describe certain phenomena...I did do a google search and did not find anything for chorchromatic color imbalance....I tried various spellings...but I assure you the term does in fact exist and can be found in several publications put out by Eastman Kodak in the1980's...

Robin...The entire Publisher file cannot be opened up in Photoshop...but the individual elements can...those elements are jpg files and I work those over in Photoshop then import them into Publisher... Supriyio...what you say is true...it is called clorochromatic color imbalance...which is why 5000k light sources were adapted as the standard to view prints under... I'm using mixed room lighting...which is ok, not great....but I can see this slight pinkish cast under most any light source...

Supriyo...your links led me to another post and I just tried pulling my bw images back into photoshop then added about 3 points of cyan to the image...then printed that and it was better...probably acceptable for what I'm doing... rodeo_joe...I chose the XP960 mostly for the amount of space I have to place an A3 printer...and knowing that my printed images in color does NOT have to be perfect...remember I print CD covers and inserts...not fine art photos...so I can accept looser tolerances than you guys can...and my color has been fine... It's just on these last 2-3 CD's I converted the color image to bw and I realize that it's not as neutral as i would like... Robin...my situation is not "normal"...I'm a computer tech and I have a iMac that is about 5 years old...that I use to keep my Mac tech skills up to speed for my clients... And it has Photoshop installed so I use Photoshop on the Mac...but everything else I do is Windows...so I'm working off 2 different monitors...they are NOT calibrated to each other nor to the printer...but they are pretty darn close to each other...All my photos come in as jpg's...so I don't see any advantage to convert them to TIFF's...the metadata will be the same and I've gained a larger file size... My last test by adding a few points of cyan to the image gave me better results...I'm going to print a few CD inserts and see what it looks like... Many thanks for everyone's responses and assistance...

Good question...This is the ONLY paper I've used simply because I print both sides and it was reasonably priced...I can fold it for a CD insert...I did try an Epson paper and one or two others early on...but they were unsatisfactory and I really don't recall why... This paper is used for CD inserts, not for printing high quality photos...I brought this issue to this forum because I figured a bunch of fine art photographers who print grayscale might be able to help me figure this out...When I started doing this about 2 years ago all I printed was color and my results were very satisfactory... Only very recently have I been converting to b&w and having this reddish tint issue... The HP Brochure paper I'm using is a good high quality photo paper, glossy...but the paper base is designed for brochures, you can fold it without creases, print on both sides etc...If someone has a suggestion for a paper that has the characteristics of this HP paper...I will happily try it... I am a very skilled computer tech...but I am a rank beginner in Photoshop, Publisher, printing grayscale, printing profiles etc etc... Thanks for the help...

HI...Hope I;m posting this in the correct forum...if not please advise... I use an Epson XP-960 with Claria inks...Windows 7... When printing grayscale I usually get a pinkish cast...not always, but usually... Been googling trying to find a way to correct this...but so far coming up dry... I'm doing something a bit different than most posters here...I record bands at some venues around town and make up CD's for the artists...With insert pages and art... I get images from the artists FB postings...or they supply me with images etc...Sometimes I convert these color images to b&w in Photoshop that I run on an iMac... The grayscale images will look very "neutral" on the screen... Then I move the images to my Win 7 and compose in Microsoft Publisher...then print to the Epson... I currently use HP Brochure paper 180g glossy on both sides as I normally print on both sides... When I do this in color I have NO problems...no color casts...good contrast, saturation etc....only the B&W that gives me problems... So...that is pretty much what I do...I'm hoping someone can direct me how to get rid of the minkish, reddish, magentaish color cast to my bw prints... Thanks in advance for any assistance...