steve_c16

I think this might be another case of me making much of little. Thank you for the reply.

well.... I am not sure what I did wrong (I think I read the wrong scale) but it appears I misread my meter. I finished up a test roll of Fomapan R100 yesterday under shady sun, the meter, when read correctly said f16 at 16fps (no filters) so thats the way I went. I had the camera set for manual aperture so it seems to me I should have a valid starting point, f16 being well withing the range of this old Bell and Howell. Am I correct to think that in manual, meter and manual aperture should be (more or less) in agreement?

Wait a minute, I just turned a haircut into brain surgery, is there any reason I couldnt hold the ND over the eye on my light meter? If it gets me in range on the meter it should be about right over the lens. That seems like it should get me in the ball park.

Thank you for the reply, it looks to me like this is a mathematical nightmare, or I am overthinking it.

This is where I get lost, all the math. First, I am using a Gossen Luna Lux, that is what is telling me I need f-45. So, going by Steve logic, that means I need to stop down 3 stops to get into a usable range, (reading the numbers right off my trusty Gossen light meter) f45-f32-f22 and finally to f16 which is within the Bell and Howell range. Does this make sense? I am assuming these are full stops,( I have never seen anything calibrated for smaller than f22 ). Thus is seems to me that an ND9 (3 stops) may do the trick. You have suggested an ND1.5 so I am wondering what I am missing here. I looked at ND charts, f-stop charts and read their explanations, but now I think I know less than I did before. The way the values are expressed is confusing and seemingly not uniform, as an example I found on the same chart, I noticed that an ND6 expressed as an ND102, ND 0.6 and ND 4 (using the wikipedia chart suggested by Fred), also the ND 1.5 you suggested expressed as ND 105, ND 1.5 and ND 32 all with a fractional transmittance 3.125%. As I understand this that means that only 3.125% of the light is permitted through? I should have stayed in school. I do have a ND-6 filter, might that be close enough to give me a starting point?

Hi all, so here is my deal. I have a couple of old movie cameras, a Tower Varizoom and a Bell and Howell Zoomatic that use double 8mm film. I have some Fomapan 100 I want to try but..... the cameras light meters are only calibrated to a max of ASA40, the Fomapan is rated at ASA100, my light meter tells me I would need to use F45 (at 16fps), both cameras have a max. F22 aperture, How can I make this work? Would a ND filter do the trick and if so, how would I calculate the strength of the filter? Any help would be appreciated. Steve

<p>Thank you both for the responses. Those caps will indeed be checked, there are 2 the size of big salt shakers in the storage side. This is what I was told by a radio guy, "Dry cells cannot deliver the current requirement of the high voltage oscillator that charges the energy storage capacitor". Is this not true with NiCad sub c batts?<br> Jochen, Butkus is a great site, you must be a better diver than I am, I couldn't find anything but instructions on filling the batteries. </p>

<p>Hi, I just bought an old Heiland-Strobonar 1 flash pack and have learned it was powered by 2 Willard wet cell batteries. My question is, does anyone have info on these batteries? They didn't come with the flash pack so I dont have a part number or dimensions on them. Any info would be appreciated. Thank you!</p>

<p>Hi, I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for so here I am. I have 2 very old Heiland "D" packs for my Strobonar 7, if anyone out there has any info, like a schematic of the guts, that would be great. And to be quite honest, even which way the battery pack goes in would be helpful. I put it back in the way it came out, and it looks right, but there are no markings to verify. The old vibrator capacitor doesnt work and while I can get a solid state replacement, I am unsure if it is positive or negative ground. As much as this will be a great addition to my collection of Honeywell/pentax stuff it would also be great if I could make it usable. Thanks in advance, Steve</p><div></div>