stephen_smith17

<p>The 50/1.8 (full size AI-AIS versions, not the later pancake version) and 50/2 are fine lenses, inexpensive and a pleasure to shoot with.</p>

<p>If you can order from the U.S., the D100 factory refurbished can be found for around US$700. You should be able to produce good results covering events with a D7100 + 17-55, but if you are shooting fast and continuously, the buffer is inadequate, fills up very quickly. The D7200 has a larger buffer and the latest AF system. Its US$1200 at this time. The D610 factory refurbished is selling for around $1,000, less then the D7200, but you would need new (FX) lenses. Its a viable move for event shooting. I use an AF-D 28-105 on FX cameras to cover events, I am a FT working photographer doing press work as well as business and other events. Its a very good lens that you can find on eBay and elsewhere for less than $200.</p>

<p>I concur with Lorne. I am a working photographer who shoots NEF 100% of the time. You should try Capture NX-D, which is free, for your RAW White Balance and exposure adjustments (you can also change schemes eg. Vivid, Standard, Neutral etc). then have it do the batch conversion to JPEG so you can finish editing in CS4. Its well known that the Nikon software does a better job with the color of NIKON NEFs, overall color and WB accuracy, than any of the Adobe software. I have not used Capture One in a while. I use NX-D regularly for color sensitive shoots taken with the D750 and I get good results. <br> I use View NX2 for less complex jobs, quick WB and exposure adjustments. Works fine for less complex tasks. Also free from Nikon.</p>

<p>I concur with C.P.M, learning good posture/holding position can make a big difference. "Strong arms soft hands" is what I teach. Hold the weight of the camera with the larger muscles in your upper arms and shoulders, arms in making leverage against your sides if needed. Keep your hands relaxed, as tense hands will often result in movement.</p>

<p>I see some delay in the preview on the monitor on my D750 as well. Think its how the firmware is programmed. I have not had problems with image corruption on memory cards on the 750 but I use only SanDisk and Lexar pro cards and I format them after each use.</p>

<p>Wouter and others have had success with third party flashes, another option would be the new Godox with the li-ion battery.<br> <br />As to Nikon Speedlights, you can get good SB-800s used for around $250, I have several of the them. Don't know what the 700 is going for used.</p>

<p>Dennis...I am a working photographer who owns and uses the D700, D3s and D50. All three are fine cameras. If you are looking to get an FX camera now for your needs as described the D610 would be a good choice, factory refurbs are available for around $1000 at this time. That's a great value for the performance of the 610. The 750 gives you a little more low light capability and a better focus module, costing around $900 more.<br> I would not recommend buying a D700 at this time. I love my D700, have almost 200K shots on it, still use it often for interior work, but the 610 and 750 are better at higher ISOs, have video capability etc. The D3s is as good in low light/at high ISOs as the 750 but its truly a camera for news, sports and event shooting for working professionals. The 750 is a better choice for most other purposes at that price point.</p>

<p>I owned both the D200 and D90. IME the D90 would be the better camera for what you will be doing (I am a working photographer, I shoot many events). Unless you really need another body right now, renting a 7100 makes sense to me. If you are going to buy, a refurb 7100 would be a good option. I see that refurb 610s are now around $1000. You may not be interested in going to FX at this time but there are many advantages long term, especially with lens options.</p>

<p>Michelle - I am a longtime working photographer who has shot with Nikon equipment for decades, film and digital, DX and FX bodies and lenses. I do a wide range of work, landscapes, macro, food and bev, a lot of interiors with ultra wide angles lenses, covering events of many types with wide, mid and long zooms.<br> You can build a very good quality Nikon gear portfolio at a reasonable price. You do not have to spend $5000 to start. What I recommend to nearly everyone like you (eg your questions) is to start with a small setup, one good body and a few good lenses, learn how to use those well, then build from there. All of these cameras require some time and experience to learn how to use them effectively, but it is not overwhelming and having some hands-on instruction at the beginning is often very helpful. Addressing the major considerations<br> - FX vs DX: There are very good bodies in both sensor sizes. What types of shooting you want to do is the key factor. For the long term, for the most flexibility, I usually recommend going with an FX body. You will have the widest range of lenses from which to choose, autofocus and manual, which are designed for that format. Based on what Nikon has introduced in recent years it appears that most of their future lens development will be for the FX format.<br> The D750 is an excellent body, I own and use it along with a D3s and a D700. The 750 has the latest focusing and sensor technology and 24 MP is more then enough for most needs. Its as good in low light (at high ISOs) as my D3s.The D610 is another very good option, image quality close to the 750 at half the price, factory refurbs are selling for around $1000 at this time (I have had two Nikon factory refurbs, both have been fine, same as new retail). The 610 doesn't have the 750's very low light capabilities and it doesn't focus as well for birds in flight and other very challenging situations, but it would be a very good alternative worth considering.<br> If you go DX, the 7100 factory refurbished can be found for around $700. My wife uses the 7100 as her main camera, she is a fine nature photographer, and gets great results with it, she prefers a lighter camera that is more comfortable to hold. <br> <br />The FX cameras such as the 610 and 750 are better in low light, by at least one stop, over the 7100/7200 DX cameras.<br> The main limitation with the DX format is the shortage of lenses in the very wide range, under 24mm effective focal length. The FX lenses in this range are better and there are more to choose from, zoom and fixed focal length (prime lenses). <br> <br />- Lenses: Assuming you go with an FX body, a 610 or 750:<br> The 28-70/2.8 and 70-200/2.8 VR1 are both high quality professional lenses, heavy and designed for professional use. As others have noted the 70-200 was designed for the DX sensor and is not very good in the corners of the image on FX cameras. Both can be sold for decent prices on eBay and/or Craigslist. That might be a good option to fund other lens purchases. I am going to list some good quality lenses that are modestly priced.<br> A very good workhorse mid zoom to consider is the AF-D 28-105/3.5-4.5. This is my main lens for event shooting...sharp, good contrast and color, low distortion throughout the zoom range. I have shot with the AF-S 24-70 as well and see little difference in image quality vs the 28-105. Working pros who need to shoot at F/2.8 at times are the market for the 24-70. The 28-105 also has a macrofeature which makes it a great walk-around lens. Available on eBay and CL for under $200.<br> If you are going to shoot birds in flight or other difficult fast moving subjects frequently with a telephoto zoom, then you would want one of the recent AF-S zooms, 70-200/4, the older AF-s 80-200/2.8 (which I have), 80-400 VR. If most of your subjects will be slower moving or stationary, there are several attractive less expensive options. The AF-D 80-200/2.8 can be found in good condition for under $600, its fairly big and heavy. Or a manual focus lens(see below).<br> For wides, the 14-24 and 16-34 are excellent but expensive. The 18-35 is worth trying out. You might also consider a 20mm prime lens. The 18-35 and 20mm primes can be found under $400.<br> - Other lens options - manual focus<br> One of the fabulous capabilities of the higher end DX cameras (300, 7000, 7100, 7200) and the FX bodies (since the D2) is that you can use Nikon manual focus lenses and get the camera's full metering functions in Manual and Aperture priority modes. Nikon made hundreds of professional quality manual focus lenses that can be bought for $200 or less, many for under $100. With a little patience and practice you can learn how to focus stationary subjects (there is a focus indicator in the viewfinder which helps confirm focus). Canon DSLRs do not work with Canon manual focus lenses, this is a singular Nikon advantage. I often shoot food and bev, products, artworks, other stationary items with manual focus lenses. Nikon MF lenses made since 1977, called AI and AIS, mount right up and meter. Lenses made earlier need a modification to the mount which costs $35. Tow examples: I use the circa 1967 Micronikkor 55mm/3.5 lens for shooting food and small objects, and for floral macros. Wonderfully sharp, easy to focus, bought on eBay for $85. The 1977 era Zoom Nikkor 80-200/4.5 (new version, rectangular rear baffle) is as sharp as current autofocus lenses in this range and can be found for under $200. I used this recently shooting art for a client because of the precise focus. Another great manual is the 50mm/1.8 (earlier versions, not the pancake lens). Bjorn Rorslett's NAERFOTO website has excellent lens reviews of Nikon AF and MF lenses.<br> So...take your time, try out bodies and lenses if possible. You don't have to have the latest and greatest and most expensive equipment, you can do very well less expensive bodies and lenses.</p> <p> </p>