SJSF

Sigh, not sure why I didn't think of this before but yes, the 50mm f2.8 Braun is pretty much a paperweight. What I did was I tried it on my Canon EOS R with two different adapters - a LTM-to-R and then with a LTM->EF->R adapter. With the former, the lens doesn't focus at all. With the latter (the intermediate EF->R adapter acting as an extension tube), I get some objects in focus but still behaves odd. Another oddity, perhaps more to do with the Canon R's MF system, is that with the LTM->R adpater - the Braun 50mm f2.8 brings up the MF focusing guide on the LCD (three tiny triangles on the LCD that must align and turn green when subject is in focus). This is in addition to focus peaking. Neat, I thought because I find it much easier to use the guide over peaking. Then I switch to the Canon 135mm f3.5 and no focus guide. Wait, what!!??! How does the camera know what MF lens is mounted and why does it care? Maybe between f2.8 and f3.5, Canon's algorithms decide there isn't enough light for the focus guide. Hrrrmmmmppphh.

oh boy! Now I look like an idiot maybe but see, I bought the lens of fleaBay. The ad said it is for LTM mount so I didn’t realize it was for an entirely different camera system until today when I found the 85mm F5.6 from the ecosystem. All this while, I haven’t been using any adapter for it - just screwed it on the Canon 7!! Does it mean the roll of film i shot is all going to be out of focus? The Canon 7 is my first “serious” rangefinder. Maybe I should stick to SLRs

I understand Braun Paxette lens are M39 screw mount but not all are compatible with Leica screw mount cameras because of the longer lens register. I am using a 50mm f2.8 Staebel Braun on a Canon 7 but wondering which other Braun lens will fit on it? The 85mm f5.6 looks like it should fit but what about the 38mm f3.5 that clearly has a big protrusion? Anyone try any of these on a non-Paxette Leica screw mount camera? Thanks.

Just wanted to check if anyone got their 6008AF recently serviced and their experience? Given the factories have been liquidated, are parts still available? Thanks.

I have now spent a few weeks with a Hasselblad 500CW and 120mm CF lens. Coming from auto-all cameras, I am still struggling with focusing when trying to snap pictures of my kids moving about and I feel I am getting better but metering, I feel is a lost cause. Outside, I can use the Sunny-16 rule but indoors, I am totally clueless. I've tried to integrate a handheld light meter in the workflow but there is no way it can keep up with my Auto-All 35mm gear or my kids. I would appreciate if people can share their experience and workflow. Provided you can nail the focus, what do you do for metering indoors? Is it practical to use a manual camera for candid indoors photography or should I reserve my Hasselblad for more staged pictures and look to an auto-body? I even got a metered finder for the Hasselblad but (1) makes the rig too heavy to handhold (2) the metered finder workflow works out to be pretty much the same as an external meter (3) the 45-degree finder angle is too annoying for framing.

Projecting images. I have been shooting digital for all the years I've had photography as a hobby (some 20 years now) - until recently. Ultimately, you want to view the images - film or digital. I "project" my digital images on a 40" 4k LED TV mounted in the kitchen - a slideshow plays in a loop and is constantly updated with new images. Makes for excellent conversation around the kitchen table. The images up there are from all sorts of digital imaging devices owned by my wife, son and I - iPhones, dSLR, MLC and sent by friends/relatives/school. The ones shot with my Canon dSLR and some L lens clearly stand out and are a pleasure to look at. And then there is the 120" projector screen where I project 35mm and 120 slides. The size of the projected images on the 120" screen, color and contrast blow the digital projection system out of the water. I tried projecting digital images on the same screen with my 1080p projector but they look like horrible phone pictures on the big screen with only 1080p resolution. Maybe I could compare the two systems if I had a 100" LED tv and a 8k projector but then I probably would've to sell my first born :p Also, remember - you can scan your film to digital but not the other way around :)

Thanks for all the responses and sorry for the delayed response. Yes, slides are in Gepe anti-newton glass mounts. While the Noris Trumpf may not be a top rate projector (it was brand new in the box when I got it couple of weeks ago) I suspect the issue is that I shot a lot of the film at pretty wide apertures, mostly f3.5 or 4 - so very likely the Yashinon 80mm f3.5 isn't at it's best wide open either in terms of sharpness or color/contrast. I managed to get the Rollei P11, I have, powered up but it's broken - the slide claws don't work and when I manually managed to get a slide in the projector, the projected image wasn't illuminated correctly. Hoping to get a Rollei P66E in the mail, later this week. And, again later this week, hopefully, I should get a few rolls that I shot with the Hasselblad 503cw, developed - so that will be a good data point to compare with. Meanwhile, I am wondering what other lens will fit the Rollei P11 if I can get it fixed. One on is a 150mm/f2.8 but I cannot get any other lens to fit the mount barrel (the 35mm projectors seem to have swappable lens - the RT-300 and Carousel take all sorts of lens). The Rollei P11 lens has a ~74mm barrel diameter. The Noris Trump barrel is the same diameter as the Carousel/RT-300 but the outside needs to be smooth unlike the lens adapter for RT-300/Carousel which has a flat/ribbed side. [uSER=2105396]@Gary Nakayama - SF Bay Area, California[/uSER] Thanks for that detailed checklist

Recently, I purchased a Kodak projector and for the first time, viewed 35mm slides on my 120" screen. For various reasons, I had never bothered to project these slides that I had shot some 20 years ago. The slides were shot with a cheap Canon kit lens and not so expensive film. And, even then - they sort of wow-ed me. So I thought to myself, if 35mm looks so good, I bet MF is going to look even more glorious. Fast forward a few weeks, I own three different MF systems - a Yashica Mat 12, a Mamiya C330 and a Hasselblad 503CW. Now, I haven't received the slides back that shot with the Hasselblad yet but I projected slides from the Yashica and Canon 35mm on the same screen. For 35mm, I have a Leica RT-300 with the 90mm f2.4 Colorpan and a Navitar 70-125mm lens. For MF, so far, the only working projector I have is a Trumpf with a 150mm/f3.5 lens. I got a Rollei P11 but still waiting for a power cord and 6x6 slide tray. The Leica, I can almost fill the 120" screen with the Navitar set to 70mm or bit smaller with the 90mm. The MF slides end up smaller width wise on the screen but almost fill the screen vertically - so even with a wider lens, I couldn't project larger images. Now, granted that I am still working on focusing skills with my MF cameras and newer Canon L lens probably run circles around the old Yashinon 80mm but I am not seeing a huge pop in the projected images from MF compared to 35mm. So I am wondering, given that I won't see images larger than what can fill my 120" screen - is MF worth all the hassle of maintaining another system or should I instead work/invest more on my Canon 35mm system? Or, given the viewing format of 16:10, 6x4.5 will look richer and more detailed than 35mm? One slide show that I did for my friends - the 35mm ones did get more applause than the MF ones. The pictures are mostly portraits and that is what I intend to shoot the most - family/friends.