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sebg

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  1. sebg
    Yeah, at least we got for sure what cause the fog. I can't imagine what could have caused the first batch to go bad... I was keeping the chemicals on the fridge but couldn't find any contraindications for that. Yeah, once I have the new scanner, which is probably gonna be a new Plustek I will have to spend some time researching how to properly scan. Presents and how to adjust the levels etc. But that's another topic. Thanks again ;)
  2. sebg
    Thanks!
  3. sebg
    Noted. Yeah, sounds a bit tedius to be honest. Interesting what you say about the contamination of the fixer. I use ILFOSTOP for 30 seconds between the developer and the fixer. I dont' rinse with water between chemicals. Maybe I should give it a rinse between the stopper and the Fixer?¿ I refixed a couple more rolls that I had with the fog. The color of the fixer is much more clear than the one with around 6 rolls on it. Maybe the fastest easiest, and more expensive thing to do would be just reuse it for 2-4 rolls tops and see how it goes. Because its quite a pain in the ass to refix it to be honest haha. I already had the foggy rolls cut in strips and on folders. So now I have to replace them on the spindle in pieces haha Will see, maybe I try what you propose about the half half fixer. Well, anyway, thanks again. At least you managed to find the solution to the problem. Cheers to everyone for the help.
  4. sebg
    Oh man, you nailed! Tried what you suggested. 5 more minutes with fresh fixer at 20C. I think it completely fixed the fog/ milkiness. (right strip was with the extra fixing) As you can see the purple tone of the negatives disappeared. The haze around the sprockets is gone too. And when you invert the colors the images look more contrasty and richer. Both strips of negatives were together before and the change is more than obvious. So gooood. :)) The question now is why that happened? I was reusing the fixer before but just around 5 rolls, don't think it's that much, people were suggesting even 10 rolls before preparing a new batch... The reused fixer had a slight yellow tone, no residue and a quemical smell but not bad or "egg like", and you had to get really close to smell it. The thing is that on my first batch obviously I used fresh fixer and the fogginess was there. So I'm wandering if the solution is leaving the fixer for 10 minutes?¿ or maybe fix for 5 minutes as indicated, empty the tank and 5 more minutes with new fixer? I will have to do some tests. Anyway, thanks a lot! Really appreciate it.
  5. sebg
    Yep, I was doing 5 minute of fixing but people suggested that the negatives were underfixed, and because I wasnt too worried about overfixing I increased the time. Yes, I'm agitating the same as with the developer.
  6. sebg
    I'm using Rapid Fixer at 1+4 for 7 minutes now, before was 5 minutes. At 20 degrees C Ok then, I will try again with 10 seconds now that I think Im agitating correctly. I hear something about the more agitation the more "contrasty" they get. But thats another topic. Thanks again.
  7. sebg
    I developed a new roll this morning. I tried some of the changes suggested. 1) Up and down firmer agitation for 20 seconds every minute this time (instead of 10) 2) Fixer was for 7 min instead of the previous 5 I'm attaching an image of the new negatives. They look more contrasty and generally better. But I'm afraid the halo or foginess between the images and near the sprokets still remains. Can't see any effect on the actual frames, but will know for sure when I have a new scanner.
  8. sebg
    I used a Plustek OpticFilm 8100 film scanner, I bought it second hand on amazon. But after some issues with the original software and not being sure the scanner was working properly as it was "recondition" I decided to send it back. Gonna wait for the refund and proceed buying a new one. And true, from what I could see on the software of the scanner, nailing the historigram and levels can be a little hard. I guess i will have to experiment a little.
  9. sebg
    The fixer was completely new. Dilution was 1+19 on LC29 for 6:30 Don't have a dark room, I used a darkbag to load the roll into a Paterson tank.
  10. sebg
    Ok then, gonna try with proper agitation next time. I'm gonna proceed refixing the film then. And next batch trying 7 minutes of fixing instead of 5. Thanks. Thanks Thanks a lot guys, really appreciate the help. Gonna try again with the changes and get back to you.
  11. sebg
    The negatives dont look that bad no. I used a 35mm dedicated scanner and I tried to scan old negatives that where developed by a professional and those negatives looked fine, non of the issues of mine with the contrast and difference in tones. I was scanning just a single negative at the time with proper cropping selection so I would guess the scanner was balancing properly yes... I'm attaching some images of the negatives below so you can check them, I'm marking some of the issues I see strange, like the spots near the sprocket holes or the lack of cleanes on the whites (My guess is that the space between negatives should be clear transparent right? instead looks fogy and dirty...) The film was new when exposed and I took me a year to develop so don't think its expired. The images where taken in VIetnam and it's hot as hell but I dont think it's that as then it would be impossible to shoot in VIetnam. The prewash its something I saw people doing it, I guess I thought it would affect negatively being just water, but for sure I'm gonna skip it next time. I was using a dilution of 1+19 for 6:30. What Ilford recommends. Thanks guys!
  12. sebg
    Hello there. I'm having some problems while developing my black and white film. I'm new at home developing and I developed 5 rolls so far. They all looked good fresh from the development tank but today I was scanning them and I notice theres a general lack of contrast and dark and sometimes light beams of light coming from the sprocket holes. I'm using a 2 roll Paterson tank. I use LC29 as a developer and also Ilford stop bath and fixer. My film is all HP5 at its 400 normal ISO. I develop for 6:30 min, stop bath for 30 seconds and fixer for 5 minutes with a 1 minute prewash before everything. Everything exactly as MassiveChart and Ilford suggests. I agitate 10 seconds at the start of every step and every minute after that. I agitate slowly rotating the tank over itslef and twisting it at the same time. As you will see on the images below theres a general lack of contrast and a lot of foggines... also parts of the images seem more develop than others, apart from the darkness following the sprocket holes.. I did some research and I found that it can be because of a lack of proper agitation (maybe my slow rotating movement is not enough to get fresh developer everywhere so parts gets underexposed) But I also read that the white beams over the sprocket holes can be caused by over agitation so the two solutions seem contradictory. I would highly appreciate any feedback you have to offer as I dont like the idea of keeping "badly developing" rolls of film until finding the solution. Thanks in advance to everyone!
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