ry_prosser

Thanks Gary, I think that was definitely playing a part. Not being used to film cameras I've had to slow everything down, including my handling of the body! I think perhaps they mechanism may have been slightly worn too. Whenever I didn't have film in the advance mechanism was fine, it was only with film that it didn't seem to advance fully so it obviously didn't like the extra load. I managed to snag a beater camera for 20 UK pounds and took the advance mechanism out of that one and place it in mine. I gave evening a good clean with isopropyl (under the top and and bottom plates) and bought some very fine oil that was fed from a precision needle used by model makers. I ran a film through this weekend and not once did I have a problem. I love the tamron 28 2.5 that came with it but I also noticed a decent difference in viewfinder brightness using the 50 1.8 which I wasn't expecting! I didn't think that lenses had an effect on brightness, perhaps its obvious with hindsight. It's not that the vf is dim with the 28, its still nice, it's just that extra bit brighter with the 50.

Thanks for taking the time to reply! I managed to find a scrappy om2 as I needed a replacement rewind shaft and cap for the advance lever. Whilst I was there I swapped the focus screen over and that seems to have made a difference! The advance movement on the scrap om2 felt tighter but not quite as buttery as my om2n, probably because the scrap one needs a service. I did swap the advance arm from the om2 as I actually preferred it to mine which for me has a rather chunky bit of plastic at the end of the arm, the om2 seemed a little more streamline. I tightened everthing back up and it seems better. There is more play in my advance arm, that is, you can start to move my arm maybe 5-10mm before you can feel the mechanism engage. With the om2 I bought for parts, the mechanism seems to engage straight away. Like I said though, my own one felt smoother. Sorry if none of that made sense!

Thanks for getting back to me! I did think about the focus screen, there's the standard 13 in the now so I've ordered a new 1-4. I'm using a 28 2.5 so maybe that's not helping. I'll have a look with the 50 1.8 on and see if that makes a difference. I've just sat here and deliberately and slowly advanced the lever about 20 times to its full and the shutter button was still locked about 3 times during. As before, I had to put some extra tension on the advance lever and hear it notch another once or twice before I could press the shutter.

Hi all, I've really tried to search before asking this but couldn't quite find anyone who described the same problem. I'm new to film and chose the om2n because of some great reviews on here and other sites. I purchased one that had been sitting around for a while but was in superb condition. I changed the light seals as the foam had corroded and also removed foam from prism and cleaned the viewfinder which is still a little dim but perhaps that's more to do with the focus sceeen.... Anyway, whilst shooting I noticed that on a few occasions I would fully push the advance lever only to press the shutter button and find it locked. I'd have to push the advance lever again and could feel it move another notch or two which then fully engaged the shutter release. Is this a regular occurance for my model or is there something I can adjust do you think? Would I have nudged anything when taking the top plate off? I was very careful not to. Hope someone can help! Apart from that minor annoyance the camera is superb!

<p>Hi Wouter, I'm not taking anything the wrong way, thanks for the input. I think what I meant was that in the digital realm it's a much quicker process learning from your errors and a bit easier correcting for them (usually chimp at the photo you just took, see if anything has gone wrong, adjust shutter/aperture/exposure comp and take again)</p> <p>With film you never know what you did wrong until the photos come back!</p> <p>You're right about learning the quirks of a camera, I'm used to cutting edge metering and these old film camera just haven't got that; they make you slow down and work a little harder for the shot. But I'm not complaining as this is what I'm really hoping to get out of shooting film, to make me a better photographer in both film and digital mediums. </p>

Hi Paul. it's an aperture priority camera. The only manual control the photographer has is iso, focus and aperture. It's a leaf shutter and because it's electrically powered, stepless. It can be operated without a battery but only at the default 1/500th of a second.

Thankyou again, it was print (negative) and Admittedly not the best quality stuff. I will get some scans up so you can see the pics yourselves if it helps. Perhaps I will try and scan myself and post processing in lightroom although i did want to get away from all that, hence experimenting with film! I was relatively happy with my focusing considering I'd never used manual focus before.

<p>Hi both, thanks for the replies and the warm welcome.</p> <p>I should have pointed out that I do have a few years experience with digital cameras ranging from the Nikon D700 to my current Fuji X-E2 and have a good grasp of the exposure triangle and basic to intermediate techniques but film photography is a different beast altogether!</p> <p>The advice regarding the metering sounds very familiar, I do have large cream walls lit only by a lamp in the room and some natural light and so that makes sense. I suppose I'm used to matrix metering and not having to worry, the problem with the Yashica is that there is no exposure lock so I can't meter off something else before taking the photo.<br> I just wondered if using a higher iso(asa) I would have gotten a better exposure?<br> <br />Because the Yashica is an aperture priority camera I have no idea what shutter speed it decided on but I definitely didn't max it out as the slowest it will shoot is 30 seconds and I know that it wasn't slower than 1/30th or else the warning bulb would have come on.<br> I've just shot my second role today, all outdoors; as long as they come out right I'll keep perservering with film and perhaps either get the flash as suggested or use my digital for indoors. I do love the feel of my film camera though!<br> <br />Any advice of getting around the metering situation in natural light would be welcome though, perhaps nudging my ASA dial in those situations? would that work? I know iso 200 isn't really advised for indoors so will avoid that again.</p> <p>Thanks again</p>

Hi all, apologies if this sounds like a stupid question but I'm new to film photography. I recently purchased an electro that was sold as having a full cla. I used an iso 200 film but all the indoor shots came out underexposed. I shot pretty much wide open (no higher than 2.8) and neither the overexposed (Red light) nor the orange (slower than 1/30th shutter speed) were on. I assumed this would give me the correct exposure but obviously not. The shots I took outdoors were fine and exposed correctly. Is it just down to using the wrong film speed? I know iso 400 is more advisable for indoor photography but with the camera being aperture priority I assumed it wouldnt allow for underexposure without lighting up the slower than 1/30th bulb? As i said, the outdoor shots on the same film week exposed perfectly so I'm confident the meter is working. Hope you can advise Ryan