russell_t

Hey All, I had the opportunity to do some air to air helicopter photography recently, and while we were in the air I got some awesome scenic shots. I never have printed my work larger than about 16"x24", but I have one shot I want to blow up to 30"x60". I shot it at ISO100, f/4, 1/1250, but when blowing it up to the full size at 300 ppi it's a little grainy, so I put some noise reduction on it. Due to the size do I need not to worry about grain, or should I not worry about looking at it this close up? Thanks! Russell

Thanks for the thoughts everyone. For clarity, what I'm seeing is the "recharge capacity" indicator - when you into the menu and choose Battery Info, it's the 3 icons below the battery percentage. When using Canon batteries, I have had batteries at 1 indicator that could still get at least 200 shots out of them. (With lens IS turned off, hotshoe flash.) I shoot pretty regularly (from a few times a month to a 4-5 days a week - mainly sports, but a lot of events and festivals), and generally try to recharge around 25%. The fact these offbrand batteries are still showing the highest potential is what's confusing me... I'm not sure if it's an aftermarket thing where they just don't tell you, which would be logical.

Hey All, I have a 7d2 with a Canon battery grip, and have always used the off brand batteries. They're going on 3 years old now, and while I used to get 700-800 shots from each battery now I'm only getting about 100 before they're dead, however they say 3 bars for recharge performance. Anyone ever have this experience with the off brand batteries? Thanks! Russell

<p>I have a 7D Mark 2 and I love it, however when I'm shooting sports I keep it on AF 9-point expansion and try to keep it on the right or left side depending on what sport I'm shooting and the location of the players. However sometimes I need to change quickly, which makes me miss my shot, so I was wondering if there's any button I can program to auto switch between the selected AF point and another one I can pre-determine.</p> <p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Hi All,<br> I recently bought a used 7D mark 1, and when shooting last night at a club it kept losing communication with my flash. I'm not exactly sure what the problem is, however I have used this same flash on my 7D2, and there have been no problems, so I can only imagine it's the camera. I tried removing the flash and resetting it, but that didn't work, then it would inexplicably decide to work again after doing nothing.<br> Anyone have a clue what's going on here?<br> Thanks,<br> Russell</p>

<p>Hi All,<br> I've shot Canon for years, and just recently bought a 7D Mark I (used) and it works great, but when I was using it as a second camera last night at basketball, the colors are MUCH more yellow than my 7D Mark II. I had both set to RAW, and full manual. The 7D1 had a 24-70 f/2.8 and the 7D II had a 70-200 f/2.8 lens on it, and both were set to Manual settings and Fluorescent WB.</p> <p>I imported the pictures, and even when I reset the WB in Lightroom to Fluorescent for them all, the 7D1 is MUCH more yellow than the 7D2. Is this something that can be adjusted?</p> <p>Thanks,<br> Russell</p>

<p>If you had the opportunity to get a 300mm f/2.8 IS USM lens for the weekend, what would you shoot?</p> <p>I have a 70-200 f/2.8 IS2 Canon lens and shoot a lot of local sports for a rec adult sports league, but I just got the opportunity to take the 300mm USM IS lens out for a weekend.</p> <p>I live in Atlanta, and am not opposed to a little travel (within a 4 hour drive). So... if you were in this situation, what would you choose to shoot?</p>

<p>I primarily shoot sports and events as a part time job, and over the past few years have developed a massive collection of RAW images, and I need to figure out the best way to either archive or protect them from loss. My current 1.5 TB hard drive is nearing capacity, so I was thinking of going with a RAID setup with two 3 TB drives for redundancy, but wanted to see what other people do.</p> <p>I use Lightroom 5 currently for all my storage and processing, and as of January 1st I started creating new catalogs for all my new photographs and have been splitting my one huge catalog into smaller ones to make it easier to manage. </p> <p>I've also read people recommending to back up the entire catalog to a BD-R, but generally my sports catalogs exceed 45 GB, so I am not sure about that one. I also like the ability of having everything at my fingertips.</p> <p>Thoughts / recommendations are appreciated!</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> I primarily shoot sports, and am looking to upgrade my Sigma 70-200 f/2.8. I've been lusting after and saving up for the Canon IS2, but recently was in a local camera store and was talking to the Tamron rep, who was telling me about their new lens in the category.</p> <p>I've read all the reviews, know about the vignetting and softness at f/f2.8 @ 200mm, etc, and I was wondering if anyone has any first hand experience on the Tamron? I have had Tamron lenses in the past, but none were fast enough on the focusing... that apparently has been fixed with their USD system.</p> <p>Also... I was looking at LensAuthority (used equipment)... I've bought from them in the past and have been very satisfied... so $1,600 for a used Canon vs $1,500 for the Tamron new vs $2,150 for the new canon... what would be the best buy?</p>

<p>Wow I appreciate everyone's feedback so quick!<br> <br />A couple notes:</p> <ul> <li>I live in Atlanta and have had the camera priced at KEH, and I'm just not as willing to sell for what they are wanting to offer...</li> <li>I bank through USAA, so I don't have a local bank to go to, but found out that Bank of America will offer a room if reserved for private transactions for a minimal fee, which I will probably use</li> <li>I don't want to use Paypal because of the transaction fees...</li> <li>I am going to end up with a bank regardless, this way I can turn around and turn cash into a cashier's check and verify the cash is good</li> </ul> <p><br />Thanks! And if anyone in ATL wants a good deal on a 5d3 w/battery grip shoot me a PM! :)</p>

<p>I have a Canon 5D Mark iii right now, and want to sell it and buy a 7D Mark ii. Because this is going to be sold for a few thousand dollars, how would you recommend I go about conducting the sale? I have researched possibly selling it to a company like KEH (I am in Atlanta so it's local), but they offered way too less than I'd accept (as expected).</p> <p>Primarily, I'm concerned about my safety, and how I can go about accepting payment of around $2,500. Would a bank allow me to do a transaction there, where the person could get a certified check to pay me, or is that a bad idea? I've never dealt with private sale in this price range before.</p>

<p>So this brings up an interesting question, since I was only really interested in the Mk2 for the supposed advanced tracking capabilities. However, when comparing two similar lenses (e.g. 70-200 f/2.8 Mk1 vs Mk2), other than the USM, how will one lens help with AI Servo against the other? I always thought that would be more of a camera body distinction. Does anyone have a link that will help me understand that?</p>

<p>Well right now I have a 5d3 and I am planning on going to a 7d2 in the next couple months. (I used to have a 7D, and I really miss it.) But I can't justify (or afford) upgrading to the 1DX (which would only be my *real* upgrade at the moment).</p>

<p>Focusing closer isn't a big concern of mine... considering right now I have about a 4m closest range, the mark 1 would be a vast improvement.</p> <p>Robert... couldn't I just buy the hood for the mark 2 and put it on a mark 1?</p> <p>What would be a reasonable price to offer for a mark 1? A guy locally has one for $1,400... but it's been on Craigslist for about a month.</p>

<p>Hey all,<br> Just looking for some thoughts... I shoot a lot of sports and currently have an older sigma 70-200 f/2.8 HSM lens I use (and really like), and have been playing with upgrading to the Canon L series glass. I shoot primarily for a local adult sport and social club; it pays enough for me to buy more equipment, haha. So I was looking at the IS vs IS II lenses and was wondering if it's worth the upgrade to IS II. Shooting sports I'm never below 800 shutter speed, so the actual IS doesn't bother me... I'm looking more towards the AI-Servo tracking qualities of the IS II.</p> <p>If I should go with an IS lens, what would a fair price be for one of these? I see anywhere between $1,000 to $1,200 on eBay... some guy locally has one for $1,400 (but I wouldn't pay that much... go a little more and get the 2). What would a fair offer be if I do choose to go that way?</p> <p>Thanks!</p>