russell_bastock

Its a JIS - I just couldn't remember the term for it - so I was looking to just buy one JIS driver for that screw rather than the whole kit.

Thanks, I'll give them a try

I've had a screw come loose on my 5D MkIV. The black screw is on the front of the body between the lens bayonet and the prism. Does anyone know the exact size of the screwdriver for this? Its not a phillips driver and I don't want to purchase a kit of drivers.

You can only use full second intervals in the time lapse mode, not fractions, so its 1/4 sec exposures at intervals of 1sec +. I've since found that it is a Movie mode and restricted by that (as is Live View I'm guessing). "If the shutter speed is 1/30 sec. or slower, the exposure of the movie may not be displayed properly" which is a bit cryptic as it suggests exposure will work but the setting will not display in the LCD, or then, it might mean exposure will revert to 1/25 as I am discovering.

I'm experimenting with time lapse using the inbuilt intervalometer on my 5D MkIV but some odd things happen. I gather it won't do auto exposure changes during the shoot, so I've switched to manual. I do a test shot before turning on the intervalometer, which shoots via Live View, but quite a few times the settings have changed when I switch over and I've no idea why. I end up with poorly exposed images because of it. I also did a two hour moonlight shoot on about 1/4 second but found out that it quietly reverts to 1/25th sec, which I guess is the movie frame rate. Are there any issues with manual mode changing settings, or when you switch to Live View? I'm surprised you can only shoot at 1/25th on Live View as how do you do star tracking shots. Any ideas what's going on?

I've got an old 2011 iMac running Sierra that is stalling a lot, I'm guessing its just the OS and some sort of bus issue, I use Lightroom, Photoshop and DaVinci Resolve, but in the past I've tended to double the base RAM the computer comes with as you need it over time. So I was just wondering if there was an issue with 16GB I need to be aware of.

What have people found with a laptop running 16GB RAM - is that enough or is 32GB needed?

I travel a few times a year and need to edit images on the go, but my current laptop has a faulty motherboard. Its interesting about the ports - I forgot about that. I might look into screens as well to use as a laptop-screen alternative to a new iMac.

I don't know if this is the place to post this but its seems a good fit. I'm in the dilemma of needing to replace both my iMac and MacBook due to their age, but I can only replace one due to funds constraint. I use Lightroom, Photoshop and DaVinci Resolve video software. My current iMac has 16GB of RAM, but I'm thinking maybe 32GB is the starting point now. What are people's experiences in this space? The MacBook might seem the go but there is the small screen issue compared to the 24" iMac.

I've installed EOS Utility 3 on my Mac, run the computer wifi pairing option on my 5D MkIV, I've selected the camera SSID on my MacBook Air wi-fi menu and entered the Encryption Key from the camera pairing screen and the pairing screen appears on the camera, but when I start the EOS Utility there are no wi-fi options showing and the menus (download/remote etc) are not highlighted or selectable. There doesn't seem to be a Pairing over wifi/LAN button or wizard I've seen in instructions. I'm still connected to the Camera in the wi-fi menu and restarting the utility doesn't change anything. Any ideas?

Thanks wmweikel, I was reviewing the user manual last night and noted there was an option to flick the Multi-Controller straight down that takes the focus point/array back to the centre, so I gather that's what you're talking about. Its these tips I need to know about. There's so much to learn you temporarily become lost in the forest of options.

Thanks Jochen. I rarely get details on print needs back from clients (even magazine publishers!) and these guys run an annual event so it may be 10 months before they look at printing needs. I like your idea of consistent look. I'm trying to develop my own style to up the value of my work. What I'll likely do is a social media batch that I reduce and sharpen myself, give a broadly hi-res set and they can contact me again if they need it even bigger, so posters or the like.

I'm being paid to shoot promotional images of an event where I'll hand over the images for publication online and in print. So the images could end up in magazines and fliers, as well as social media. What size should I produce the images at (in pixels and DPI) for this varied publication market, and should I create two or more duplicate sets at different resolutions online set and a print set to deliver? I'm using Lightroom for the workflow.

I think its universal that you can photograph anyone in a public space, in western countries at least. Personality Rights varies from country to country and are not universal. The issue is as stated above, seeking commercial gain from someone's image (aka brand), not merely taking their photo. Most major venues won't allow audience members to take a medium to long lens to a concert, so they can't zoom in on individual band members etc.

Thanks Jochan for the detailed reply and I agree with your sentiments. I spent 30 years with a Canon F1 film camera and manual focus lenses. I really miss the simplicity of checking the shutter speed, ISO and aperture dials between shots. They were simply obvious and easy to see at a glance and it was easy to flip up the camera up between shots to eyball the settings. The number of options on the MkIV is amazing, and I wouldn't want anything less as my work is so demanding and diverse, but its also confounding when starting out (even after using a MkII for years - which I now want to toss in a bin every time I try to use it as it is so limited). I realise its a muscle memory thing but its not sticking. I even have a temporary label on the thumb depression area to remind me to check the focus, but even then, shooting events with multilple things at once on-the-fly I overlook it 30% of the time. Moving the focus spots around is fine if you have a few secs to pause, as the buttons need to be nudged into position, but when subjects need to move on then that's an extra time burden. It would be great to have a touch screen to move your finger over to move the focus points rapidly. On the plus side I'm creating some flash cards to remind me of different things to be set, so I can quickly remind myself of the criteria needed for different shots and pre-load my memory so to speak. And when that's down pat, I'll set them to C functions.