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russ_marshall

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  1. Yes, there are no white lines running through any of the colors,b&w on the nozzel print out.
  2. I'm getting horizontal banding on my b&w prints - especially noticeable in the black areas. I have already done about 5 nozzel checks and cleaning and 1 deep clean. Also did a print head alignment. Also switched the black carts. Those actions improved it a little but still can see slight banding in the blacks. Any additional actions I have not thought of would be appreciated. Using a PIXMA ip8720 with 3rd party inks (the PGI-250 XL is pigment) and CANON Premium Matte paper 13x19. Also using the 'plain paper'/GRAYSCALE setting to eliminate all traces of color tints. I know the PGI-250 XL/'plain paper setting is normally used to print text but this is the only setting I'm using that does not produce green/magenta/cyan color tints on b&w prints. The prints are high contrast and a tad harsh but I like that look for what I'm printing right now.
  3. I'm getting blue/cyan tints in dark gray/black areas of my b&w prints. I've run several nozzel checks/cleanings and also removed and flushed the print head. Printer is a Canon PIXMA ip 8720. Still am getting the results on the BK bar as shown in attachment. Canon rep said it probably is not the print head but instead the printer needs some kind of repair - which sounds expensive. Has anyone seen this kind of pattern and what may be the problem?
  4. What is required when changing from one ink brand to another on the same printer? Do I have to purge the system of all traces of the previous ink ( don't even know what that would entail ) or just do one or more "deep cleanings" or what? For instance, changing from one brand of 3rd party ink & their cartridges to another 3rd party ink with their refillable cartidges.
  5. <p>Thanks for the review link, David. I have no idea if there's a LR plugin or not. I'll check it out. I'm using the --- not-very-sophisticated-limited-basic-PhotoShopElements 5. It's always sufficed for my needs so far.<br> JDM - The old Epson is long gone! </p>
  6. Software: Adobe Photoshop Elements 5.0 Windows;
  7. Software: Adobe Photoshop Elements 5.0 Windows;
  8. <p>Thanks all for your responses. I got a Canon after the Epson clogged up permanently. But I'm still not completely happy with it. I get color casts (B&W prints) also with my PIXMA ip 8720 - even with Canon paper. The Dell monitor is calibrated with Spyder2Express.</p>
  9. <p>As I scroll around looking for user info on Canon printers, it seems there isn't much. It's all about Epson. Does anyone have a high opinion on the quality of B&W prints from a Canon printer? Specifically a Canon PIXMA ip8720 printer. A friend has one and he can't seem to get a B&W print from it without a color cast -- usually magenta. The paper profiles are installed for Canon papers and for Red River. I had an Epson Workforce 30 and I printed pages of B&W photographs for several books I made and they all printed as neutral B&W. I used Red River Premium Matte paper. I know that there are many variables for this kind of "color cast" problem but my main question is -- are Canons not really good enough? </p>
  10. <p>Yes I have been in Pro Mode but w/thumbnails on. Never did see the frame edges. But thankfully your advice worked. With thumbnails off I selected the frame from the strip w/the mouse and clicked 'zoom' and the frame poped up with the black frame line around it. Great. So John - thanks again. I've had this scanner forever but almost always scanned prints - not negs. I can put the file and sand paper away now.</p>
  11. <p>Thanks John. I just measured the holder slot and it is actually 25mm wide. My negatives are 24mm wide. So it's a mystery. Maybe the fact that there is some distance between the negative strip in the holder and the flat bed scanner glass, however miniscule. But you're right about the approx. 1.2mm lose at top & bottom. </p>
  12. <p>Thanks Peter. What I meant was; a print showing the complete scanned area on an 8x10 sheet of paper to whatever the actual image dimensions would be. Your 8x12 reduced proportionately to about 6x10. I only use that size print to indicate how much of the negative is lost at that size print. Full frame on an 11x14 sheet would show about ½ inch lost on each long side. Again, the scanner neg holder is cropping off part of the negative on the long sides.</p>
  13. <p>The 35mm negative holder isn't wide enough to expose the entire 35mm frame. So I'm getting the long sides cropped a good ¼ inch on a full frame 8x10 print. I don't think it's possible or cheap to have the edges ground to enlarge the opening. Does anyone know of a solution or aware of custom enlarged film holders out there? </p>
  14. <p>I'm printing on an Epson WF30, Epson Matte and Epson ink. I'm uploading file photos to Photo Shop Elements 5 'edit' and printing from there using 'best photo', 'black ink only'. <br> My half letter size prints are consistently a few clicks lighter than what I'm seeing on my monitor (Dell U2412). The blacks especially seem thin. I have to go into the levels black slider and increase black by 10-15 points. Which makes the monitor image a few clicks darker than I want but the print looks like the previous monitor image before applying levels.<br> I calibrate the monitor with Spyder2 about once a month. The monitor doesn't seem to be too bright or too dark or maybe I'm just used to the present level. <br> <br />Any suggestions or solutions? <br> <br />Thanks, Russell<br> </p>
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