russ_britt3

<p>Well I wish all the other "experts" would have answered the question first.......bye</p>

<p>Sounds like you figured it out....probally is the lens. </p>

<p>Ray the insert and back are a matched pair, and always have been.<br />Find the source for this "long body" info?<br /><br /><br /></p>

<p>The Hasselblad bodies were machined from a solid block of metal.</p>

<p>"the newer cameras were built to tighter spec" I still have NEVER heard this before. <br />Where did you hear this?</p>

<p>The older bodies can be serviced and brought back to new by factory trained repairmen.<br />I would recommend either David Odess or Hasselblad in New Jersey for this work.<br />Even if you buy a newer camera it too will probally need to be serviced.<br /><br />So it's your call, buy newer and get service or get the one you now have serviced.......they are all mechanical in nature. <br /><br />I have never heard of "incorrect body lengths" not sure I would trust that source for further information?<br />The newer bodies do have updates that you may find useful?</p>

<p>Have you tried firing the shutter with the film back removed?<br />I have seen problems caused by the film back......also if this does not help remove the lens and see if the body fires?<br />This way you can determine where the problem lies , body, back, or lens.</p>

<p>I had two CMs and two ELMs back in the day (1980s), I never found weight to be an issue. <br />As with the weight of the ELMs I got instant return mirror and electronic cable release options. <br /><br />I shot mainly wedding and portraits, the weddings I had a Metz 402 flash on a sanders over the len flash mount.<br> Shooting portraits were alway shot from a tripod, with an electronic release.<br> <br />The main time I used the CMs, were during the wedding ceremony shots as it was quieter.<br />I still have one CM and one ELM and a super wide.......love them all.<br /><br /></p>

<p>To test if its a light leak (I am assuming you mean around the film door) you can put tape (something that will be easly removed without leaving glue) maybe like drafting tape around the door seals. If you shoot film with the seals taped and do not get this then yes it's the seals. But on a camera like that I would think the seals last a very long time? <br />This is how I found I had light leaks on my Hasselblad magazines back in the 80s....and which mags leaked.<br />Higher speed films have more light leak problems.....and the slower you shoot the rolls also adds to the problem.<br />Have fun with that camera......film rules.</p>

<p>What you may be hearing is the camera body curtin stays open until you release the shutter button, the shutter in the lens should not. If it does you need a cleaning and lube, and possibly parts.</p>

<p>Charles most people are telling you what they would do, I used to sell cameras "in the 70s" I always told people to go with their "gut". I you think you know what you want you will always second guess themself if they go with another camera. <br />I think Edward best answered you question (as you said you wanted a Hasselblad) right?<br />You may get one and decide its not really for you.......hope not?<br />See if a friend has one you can borrow, heck if you are near eastern NC I could help.<br />I myself love everything manual, I switched from Maymaya 645 to Hasselblad in 1980.<br />Theses cameras are getting older, and will soon need more service......I would also add a digital camera to the mix for when you have to work faster if possible.<br /><br />But pick the camera YOU like best.<br />Have fun, and good luck.<br /><br /></p>

<p>Even if it's not "T star coated" color film will still come out great, just shield the lens if shooting into the sun. The extra coating is mainly to reduce flair. You have a great camera........have fun with it! </p>

<p>You need new seals in the film back...........I would guess the camera set for a while before you shoot the first frame? The longer between frames give the light leak a longer exposure.</p>

<p>What are you trying to do?<br />These lens sync with flash at all shutter speeds.<br />It's not a focal plane shutter.<br /><br /><br /></p>

<p>Or you could just consider a square format 35mm.</p>