robert_stig

When i was shooting my 17-55 afs on my d3s and d4 it gave me the dx frame but spread out to the 35mm size/frame. Meaning that i had no black border at all. Theres a feature in there. I didnt have any darkened frame border

I do not plan on using a dx camera at all. I shoot d4. d3s and d750. No dx. My reason was to use the art lens as my midrange replacement of my stolen 24-70g lens. I dont plan on buying another nikon and because i want exceptional iq and willing to compromise on getting 47mp (19mp is more then enough for me) f/1.8 is a stop more then the nikon 2.8 I dient use the midrange area much. 18-35 art on the d850 in dx mode will give a 27-50 range which is great add the excellent build and fast aperture (brighter vf) and I think this will be a great choice Before getting the 24-70 I used my old dx friend 17-55 afs for a few years on my ff cameras in dx mode and it was fine although i used it for images like those on the dance floor where huge fioes arent extremely important. But really I dont use a midrange lens much. I prefer over 60mm and under 28 so thr sigma would give mw what im looking for As well when you shoot in dx mode, it fills the full 35mm frame which is great. Theres no dx frame with a darkened 35mm border. So for me it seems win win. Again, midrange focal lengths isnt critical for my shooting style, the sigma has a fast aperture and priced reasonably and 19mp in dx mode is excellent. Plus the sigma has outstanding IQ.

Id like to ask you for your opinion on an idea for using the sigma 18-35 art as a midranger lens to be used in dx mode for weddings with the D850. my 24-70G has been stolen and honestly I didnt use it often in weddings. id have the tamron 15-30 on one camera and the 70-200 Vr2 on the other. an 85/50 1.4 in pouches on me as well, should I need Im looking into buying the D850 for weddings and dont plan on shooting full rez at all. M fine would be what id shoot as default. the sigma 18-35 is a good midranger for me but was wondering what id give up which isnt obvious? negs-short focal range, dx lens so max is 19mp (which is enough for weddings for me). pros-price, better IQ, larger aperture, build.

<p>Thanks for that. Ill havr to look it over. Thats a damn book.<br> know I'd get raped by nikon japan. No less then aps. Q but it would be up to factory spec. As close as possible anyway. Problem is nikon japan doesnt accept outside packages. And english js a big problem. I thought about a package forwarding service in japan who can receive it in japan then send it to them. How eould i explain my peoblem to them on letter. Google translate perhaps</p> <p>I also thought about nikon thailand. I akso contacted nikon uk. They said goto my country service center. My service center sucks a** and thry themselves said they cant fix it and send it to nikon japan. Sorry we cant help you. Only from. Ireland and uk. So thought id forward it to my brother in ie, and he to them. They said sure. So its another option. </p> <p>Btw, does lens rentals fix repair lenses as a service or just for the gear they rent </p> <p>My biggest concern is af accuracy and alignment. It had some decentering before. Now.. Who the hell knows. Is this machine an expensive machine? Are there a few? Not many here in my country have a machine for it. Its the reason i believe they want to send it out. According to the estimate price they want some pay as well. Rather do it myself </p>

<p>Anybody? </p>

<p>After reading yelp reviews on Sandford and others.. Im considering sending the lens to nikon japan for repair. Anyone know their address? </p>

<p>I like aps but theres good and good and expensive. I know aps. They do good work. Ive used them many times. Was maintaining my 3 f5 cameras with them in the c41 age. Im certain there are many others that are high end and dont dilute the wallet as much. I will look around. The thing is i dont trust any of them. Who the hell knows what they put inside. What they say is new or used (refurbed part) and even what they did. They dont send you the old parts. They just say whatever they want. And who the hell know they dont swipe a good part u have with a decent part that will fail in a short time. I cant see whats being fixed. </p>

<p>Yea i know aps.. Theyre good but damn they broke my wallet every time id send an F5 to them back in the days. The lens itself cost me 750 bucks. I think theyd ask for half. I know them well. They dont try to mend/fix anything. They just replace. </p>

<p>Looking to send my 28-70 afs lens for repair to the us. It hit the ground and the zoom gets stiff from 50-28 and wont pass 35mm. The aperture tab in the rear doesnt snap back freely after opening it. So seems right side took the hit</p> <p>Looking for a place that can also align focus properly after the fact as i noticed when it was working the right side had focus forward more then the middle/left. </p> <p>Not nikon. Someone who takes decent prices. You can find expert work at decent prices. Its possible. Someone you know/had service from please. I need to send the lens in from overseas though. I will add export papers from customs to and back for me. </p> <p>Thank u</p>

<p>I shoot national bb contests twice a year. My 70-200 is barely enough for closeups and i can only get 3/4 body shots at 200. Im shooting at f3.5 to 4 and 1/160 with iso in the 3200+ your gear wont hack it. Theres a reason why ur friend gets nice images. With the 55-300 ull get your crop but u will miss a lot of shotd and the iq will be lacking imo. </p>

<p>You are demanding a lot from a 450 buck lens. You can only buy afs lenses to use with your model and they are the most expensive. You need to do research abd realize youre wanting a lot for little payment. Not going to happen </p>

<p>I would go for the 16-80. Youre trading down. Build is better optics are better. Its like going from a 28-70 2.8 afs to the 24-120 f/4. Thats a downgrade. Keep your 17-55 and get some. Primes for that extra cash u want to burn. Or if you want go for the aigma 18-35 art and and a 50/85 1.8g prime. </p>

<p>@<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=9843603">Errol Young</a> thats ok i hate raw as well. I do shoot raw in specific pictures of the outdoor images of the bg when i have such a huge dynamic range scene and need to pull harshly on highlights or shadows for better images. Other than that just jpeg. I dont need the safety net people use raw for. I get it right in the camera to almost the final image. I also manually adjust kelvin for every shot. Raw doesbt look better than jpeg. Especially with the the high end cameras. D3s d4 that i have. It has a fantastic jpeg image. I have more thab enough to pull and push parts of the image i need no issue at all. Its faster and the images look superb. We shoot around 3000 images in a wedding. Thats 12-14 hour coverage we filter it down hard to 1800 shots. Two photogs. </p>

<p>I understand u wanting to make it feel special with all genuine parts but I can tell you that all 3 F5 cameras i used in brutal conditions outdoors and in with weddings and now my d3 d3s have no covers. The ports always work.</p> <p>I remember then wanting everything nice and perfect and i simply bought these plastic cobers for the f5's then that were a few dollars and they were awesome. Today theyre even less money.</p> <p>Youre hanging on something that you dont need to spend so much time effort or money on. Just like body caps and lens caps front and back. I have more aftermarket caps then original in my bag with 6 lenses. They work really good and are inexpensive and i use my gear more than anyone here. My d3 and d3s have done over 600000 clicks each</p> <p>Mine have been through hell and back and there are no covers on both cameras. The rubber is not there. And the ports ALWAYS work </p> <p>Goto ebay. Type d300 cap port and order the cheapest one there. It will more than do the job. I, like craig never had a port not work</p>

<p>Once I used nikons service and never again. Garbage. The repair and the service is garbage </p> <p>Yes hes called Thom Hogan. Fantastic suggestion. Lock up mirror and use a lens brush or a blower. But that may push some dust into the sensor area. Dont know how comfortable u are to clean it though</p> <p>Dont forget the longer the focal length it gets harder to get accuracy so hopefully it isnt your technique. Shame u have no other camera to test with </p> <p>I always use Authorized photo service. Never nikon. They will always say impact damage or not covered in warranty. Theyre thieves. </p>