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robert_peters2

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  1. This is a new comment to an old post. I bought one of these inexpensive Chinese adapters recently, It worked fine a few times, and then within a week or two after purchase, it stuck. And I do mean STUCK!!! A strap wrench won't budge anything. Removing the screw from the outer ring doesn't do anything. Looks like I'm going to have to cut it off with a Dremel tool. The suggestion about fitting the adapter onto a cheap doubler or some such is a great suggestion. Be careful with these cheap adapters. From what I have read, sticking is a too common problem.
  2. I realize this is an old thread, but it comes up on a search for how to adjust the rangefinder on a super graphic, so I'll go ahead and add this link for anyone who lands here: http://www.southbristolviews.com/pics/Graphic/manual-pdf/Super or Super Speed Graphic Service instructions.pdf My rangefinder doesn't give coincident images. If I read this correctly, it sounds like you have to get into the rangefinder from underneath. I am hoping the top cover can be removed and access the adjustment screw from above. If not, this adjustment may be beyond my arthritic fingers....Anyone have experience with this since the last post? At this time, my Super Graphic has a rollfilm holder attached directly to the camera, but the focusing back, ground glass, and focusing hood are all missing. Anyone have one to sell or know of one available? Until I come up with the ground glass, I can't really check and adjust the infinity stops and check the rest of the focus....(If you have one, please shoot me a messsage directly...thanks)
  3. I have a VHr, but I went the opposite direction. I purchased a Toyo 45CF (carbon fiber) and use a Horseman roll film back with it. The 45CF is light, easy to carry. It's not one of those 4x5 cameras that's so heavy you never take it with you While it doesn't have back movements, if you don't need them, no big deal. If you want back movements, Toyo offers other field cameras with them, but they'll be heavier than the 45CF. How much heavier than the VHr along with the adapter, I couldn't say.
  4. 39th Annual Camera Show, Kent, Washington (20 miles South of Seattle). More info: Our Annual Show Held at Kent Commons, 4th & North James; Kent, WA Usually around 150 tables of whatever photographic stuff camera buffs bring in for sale. Think of it as an easter egg hunt for photo enthusiasts! Some tables still available. General admission, $5 at 10:00 a.m. Early Admission, $15 at 8:30 a.m.
  5. I realize this is an old thread, but I have an early 7" Dagor front cell with a rear thread of about 36mm. It's in an old compound shutter. I have several Dagors and it's difficult to find any two early compound shutters with the same thread size.. Thankfully, shutter sizes were eventually standardized.
  6. Approximately 150 tables of most anything photographic: antique, classic, subminiature to large format, digital, lenses, tripods, accessories, images.... you never know what will turn up. It's an "Easter egg hunt" for photo buffs. Where: Kent Commons, 4th & North James in Kent Washington Saturday April 14, 2018 Early admission, 8:30 am, $15. General admission, $5 at 10:00 am Sponsored by the Puget Sound Photographic Collectors Society For meeting, table rental and other information: Our Annual Show
  7. A friend who sold dental camera equipment told me that once a manual flash is calibrated to a specific bellows unit, you just leave the aperture set (with a low power flash, somewhere around f16). The bellows extension compensates for the "closeness" of the flash to the subject. So a manual flash is more appropriate for bellows use than an automatic flash. The 133d was probably intended more for bellows use together with the 133 ring flash than for other usage. Not only do you not need a high powered flash for bellows units, you may not be able to stop the lens down enough to use it with a bellows.
  8. <p>I can understand how the inserts for 220 and 120 could be calibrated for different spacing, but I'm wondering if the 120 and 220 "shells" are also different. <br> It may not be much of a saving, but if you could use a 220 insert in a 120 shell, you might not have to buy a complete back for 220. <br> For example: if you had a 220 Horseman back for a 6x9 camera and also had a 120 Horseman back for a 4x5 camera, I'm wondering if you could use the 220 Horseman shell from your VHR in the 120 4x5 shell to save buying another 220 Horseman back for 4x5. <br> ?<br> bob.</p>
  9. <p>I think a fairer comparison would be to compare the Vito II to the Retina I. Both had tessar lenses and neither had a rangefinder built in. The accessory shoe came only on later model Vito II cameras. (The early ones had an optional clip on accessory shoe).</p>
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