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rico_tudor

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  1. <p>Diffused lighting of flat art is the safe route where any hint of the viewing environment is suppressed. As noted already, it also flattens the desirable qualities of color, contrast, and surface texture. Ironically, some galleries and museums have a quite hard and directional lighting scheme for their paintings.</p> <p>Recently, I've been shooting tiles by a local ceramics artist. The surface has contours and incredibly detailed textures, all with a high glaze. The challenge is mapping these properties into a 2-D photo. One light is enough, but it must be sized and positioned carefully: far enough away to give depth-of-light, large enough to generate speculars, high enough to avoid heavy shadows. No polarization is needed. Each art piece responds differently to lighting, and the photographer must take an artistic role. I'm using the Profoto ProBox (a 1' rigid box) @ 3' and a 45-deg down angle. Fill, which is essential, is 3'x4' foamcore at close range on the other side of the light. Flash is quick and easy, solves camera vibration, and is full spectrum.</p> <p> Four tiles on velvet:<br> <img src="http://patternassociates.com/rico/nikon/misc/tiles.jpg" alt="" width="1200" height="1178" /></p> <p>Oblique view:<br> <img src="http://patternassociates.com/rico/contax/misc/tile2.jpg" alt="" width="1200" height="1018" /></p>
  2. <p>Hasselblads with 70mm (perforated) film were the MF camera of choice for NASA, so I imagine they were generally reliable. :-) Any terrestrial Hassy could use a 100' film load with the A70 back, although a motorized body would be the most convenient. A past thread here on PN: http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00YHgR</p>
  3. <p>The D1 has fan cooling. It also has a thermal shutdown feature, although that should never be necessary. A halogen bulb is indeed a serious heat source at higher wattage. I use Profoto packs, and my heads are fit with 65W, 250W, 300W and 500W halogens. If the heads are confined by certain accessories like the snoot, temperatures rise and so does cooling level (louder fan noise). Other attachments like the ProBox cannot be used with 500W modelling—not surprising since 500W modelling and the Magnum dish can cook your dinner! In general, dish reflectors (no socks) are completely fine, as are softboxes with top ventilation, when the modelling light is enabled indefinitely at full power.</p>
  4. I need the full range of my main studio pack. Head shots at ISO 100, f/5.6 and a Profoto Magnum (13" dish) for key requires the minimum 9J. Generating ambient fill in my (white) shooting space with a bare bulb requires the full 1200J, and also for certain inefficient modifiers like the ProBox (a small rigid box) and tabletop apertures.
  5. <p>Glass dome is 7cm, and body is 10cm.</p>
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