Rick Helmke
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Err on my Nikon N90 film camera.
Rick Helmke replied to eddy_d's topic in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry
Start with a new battery and make sure all the contacts are clean. Next make sure the contacts on the lens and body ant the lens mount are clean. Take out any film. Turn the camera on and put it in manual mode. I suspect a near dead battery and if so, you should be ok. Actually you posted this in the wrong place. A little further down there is a spot for film cameras. Taking the film out, if any, will eliminate an error with the body reading the ISO from the film canister. Let us know if this works. Rick H. -
If he wants to spend that much money perhaps look for a used 17-55/2.8, an excellent lens and way better than any kit lens. Rick H.
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Miscellaneous photo paper for sale.Assortment of photography paper. Two unopened boxes totaling 30 sheets size 13"x19". One unopened box of Kirkland brand 150 sheets 8.5"x11" two opened boxes containing approximately 120 sheets of 8.5"x11" and about 75
Rick Helmke replied to glenn_kage_jr's topic in Member Classified Ads
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Pros and cons I can’t really say but I’ve seen some very impressive results from the 150 and not just as a portrait lens. Rick H.
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How To Meter Back-lit Translucent Subject?
Rick Helmke replied to arthur_gottschalk's topic in Medium Format
This is easier than it looks. Meter for the background and use a flash or other light source to expose the shadow area to within a half stop of the background. Fill flash basically, should be simple enough with an RB. A flash meter would be helpful but something like a Vivitar 283/285 will do. Just set it to expose the fill area about 1/2 stop less than the backlight ie if the background is metering at f/11 then set the fill flash to expose at f/8 or just a title more. Gives the whole thing a more natural look. Rick H. -
Not for me. I learned how to focus manually when there was no other way. I thought earlier AF rigs were easily fooled or defeated and while its miles better than it used to be it can still focus on the wrong thing if it’s moving fast. For street work I just do it myself. Rick H.
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Somehow I have ended up with an Ftn, Ft2 and an FT3. We used them in the newspaper business as backups to a motor driven F2 because it was lighter and less expensive. Also, shooting Friday night football with a Sunpak 511 the F2 1/80 flash sync speed meant a lot of ghosting but the 125 speed n the Nikkormat solved the problem. I don’t know why but I put together a camera bag basically the same as what I carried in those days and love it. I also know why I walk leaning to the left all the time. Rick H.
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Give a starting point please. Could be interested. Thanks. Rick H.
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One thing no one has mentioned is slow shutter speeds. If that camera has been sitting for an extended period, more than a year or so, shutter speeds 1/15 and slower can get unreliable and may not complete the cycle, locking the camera up. I would cycle the shutter a hundred or more times at faster speeds and then go very gradually through slower speeds, maybe 30 times at 1/15, again at 1/8 paying very close attention that the shutter completes the cycle each time and doesn’t sound likes it’s having a mechanical issue or not completing the cycle ie. not opening and then fully closing. It’s a problem on the F and F2. Also never leave the shutter cocked for more than a few hours, especially if the camera isn’t used on a regular basis. Even when I was shooting 20 or more rolls a week in my F2 I never left the shutter cocked overnight. Rick H.
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I’m a bit stuck in the past. I’ve reaquired some Nikkors that impressed me back in the day and are still excellent in my opinion. The 180/2.8 ED is one, the 105/2.5 is another. Some of Nikon’s best at the time and I’m not seeing much that’s newer and better. Nanocoating may be amazing but it’s lacking in character. The very old 85-250 zoom has a look all its own. Nobody makes something comparable. Then there’s the 80-200/2.8 D. Nothing else needs to be said. The manufacturers now have moved to high tech and the rest be damned. Honestly, the glass I used heavily in the 70’s and 80’s is still producing more interesting images. Rick H.
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I've spent less and less time here as the year progressed. I'm able to get on by ignoring warnings with Windows 7 but my I pad won't allow it. Hate to see it go, been here a long time. Hope I can remember the name of the new place. Rick H.
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Evening everyone, Was there ever such a thing as a wireless remote shutter release for the F4S? I’d like to find something wireless, doesn’t need more than 10 foot range. Thanks. Rick H.
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Unicolor: Jingle Bell Program timer
Rick Helmke replied to hjoseph7's topic in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry
Interesting approach and definitely different for me. I’m still using a Gralab timer that was probably new in the 70’s but it works. Nice to see something like this. Rick H.