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richard_oleson

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richard_oleson last won the day on September 16 2009

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  1. Thanks for your info on Ciro-flex's made after 1948 having the addition of the Fresnel plate below the groundglass. Once I saw this I realized the wet stop I saw was due to the cleaning agent getting between the layers.

    I removed the plates and was able to do a better job of cleaning and than dried them, reassembled them and now have nice clean view.

  2. I did once sort of hack a fake R4 .... I had a Sears KS2 that was roughly the right size and color and had no name on the prism, so I made a LEICA logo and a red dot and glued them on. For the 50/1.7 Rikenon lens I made a new ID strip calling it a Mediocron. I kept it that way for a while as a joke, but after a clerk at a local Leica dealer complimented me on my Leica I got kind of scared and removed the logos.
  3. <p>Hi Walter! Does it look like this one?:<br /> <br /><a href=" /> <br /> I think this is the only M42 camera with a non-removable waist level finder. The Biotar lens would go with this or a Contax/Pentacon, both East German cameras. Also, it was a common practice for US camera stores to private label East German cameras, often defacing the original name before gluing or riveting their nameplate on top. This was done with Prakticas, Praktinas, and Pentacons that I can think of offhand. Here is a Pentacon that's had that done to it:<br /> <br /><a href=" /> <br /> This was generally done in the early-mid 1950s. Pentax adopted the M42 mount in the late 50s, the Olympus FTL not until 1970 or so. It became very common on Japanese cameras in the 60s: Ricoh, Fujica, Yashica, Mamiya, Chinon, I'm sure a few others that aren't coming to mind. But this was all after the rebadging days, and I don't recall that ever having been done on a Japanese camera in any case.<br /> rick</p>
  4. <p>Hi Jarrett: I have disassembly & repair notes for this camera, write me at rick.oleson@gmail.com if you'd like a copy. A pretty common problem with the Konica A - T series is a failure of the plastic stud that holds the (-) terminal into the bottom of the battery box. Does that terminal look loose and floppy inside the box? It's an easy fix, except that the box does not come out downward, so a lot of disassembly is required to reach it from the top. Another possible problem is corrosion in the (-) wire from standing for years with a battery in the camera ... the same disassembly is required in that case. Other possibilities are the CdS cells, though they seldom go bad, or the galvanometer, which could have a wire off or just a stuck needle. I've seen a couple of cameras where the hair spring in the galvanometer came unsoldered, that can be tricky to get back together... but it's rare.<br> rick</p>
  5. <p>The only criterion I've ever come up with is Stuff I LIke. And I'm not even real strict about that :)=</p>
  6. <p>It's probably dirty, they usually are after 45 or 50 years. It may tend to become more fussy at cooler temperatures and better when it's warmer. The real solution is having it cleaned, which is not a huge job but unfortunately there aren't as many camera repair places around any more as there used to be.</p>
  7. <p>oh my god. it's supposed to make SENSE? i'm doomed.<br /> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/26262745@N08/albums/72157610757987197">https://www.flickr.com/photos/26262745@N08/albums/72157610757987197</a><br /> : ) =</p>
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