ric1

<p>Yes thanks, I saw that article earlier. The Angenieux comes with a C mount converter, I can only assume it converts to pre-Reflex days. I double checked by attaching my regular Pan Cinor zoom and focussing on an object then comparing both the zoom angled viewer and the Bolex prism view - they were both in agreement, so it's definitely the Angenieux viewer which is out.</p> <p>Trouble with the Pan Cinor zoom / H16 arrangement is that it is impossibly heavy to use for hand-held shots, great for tripod.</p>

<p>Hi,</p> <p>I have a zoom 17-68mm Angenieux lens with C mount adapter for my 16mm Bolex Reflex H16. The lens on its own is compatible with the camera and gives sharp focus. The lens has a right-angle viewer which works fine. However, when an object is in focus through the Bolex viewer it is out of focus through the Angenieux viewer and vice versa.</p> <p>Why should this be so please? I can only guess that there is a discrepancy at the film gate?</p> <p>Thanks</p> <p>Richard</p> <p>17-68mm Angenieux lens with C mount adapter ~</p> <p>http://www.projectionniste.net/upload/images/1351432983-09.jpeg</p>

<p>Thanks Andrew,</p> <p>I was also wondering if I could 'set' the Sekonic by the Gossen?</p>

<p>Yes thanks I am shooting movie with hand-held light meters, and I have the manuals ;)</p>

<p>Thanks guys,</p> <p>Finally got the Sekonic to f/s mode but the read-out was nuts compared to my Gossen 6 - guess I was born an analogue boy! I will stick to the Gossen and put up with the teeny fps ring, it actually serves me pretty well ;)</p> <p>Yes, I remember the March post but I was going to use fixed lenses at some point, so the zoom lens light limitation wouldn't apply. </p> <p>What is the best, recommended light meter for cine camera usage please. The Gossen is brilliant but not always that easy to scan in the field due to the squeezed fps values in the middle of the dial.</p>

<p>Hi,</p> <p>How do I set up the L-358 for fps please? I have followed the manual but where f/s should appear on the led display I only get an 'm' or an 's' then it cycles round again.</p> <p>There are also micro switches in the back of the meter, what is the default setting for these please or is there a certain setting which will give me fps?</p> <p>I have posted on this topic before but cannot find a 'my previous posts' tab to get back there.</p> <p>Many thanks,</p> <p>Ric</p>

<p>Thanks, that is very good news because my lowest speed of 8fps is roughly half my normal film speed of 16&2/3, so it should make transferring the result to my computer okay.</p> <p>I take it the primes mean I can meter the night shots at asa200 straight?</p>

<p>Thanks Andrew,</p> <p>Not quite there yet, I intend to tone the footage.</p> <p>I may become a regular here because the only colour film I can find is asa 200 & I want to shoot some night time fairground scenes with it. I want trail effects which will mean allowing more light into the camera, how might I achieve this please?</p> <p>Night shots possibly means I can dispense with the all the filters I'm using, even at double the film speed. I'd be using thumb-sized fixed lenses, so I shouldn't be losing any light to the optics as I do with the enormous Pan Cinor zoom.</p>

<p>Hi,</p> <p>Developed film (first stage) the exposure is much improved after following your advice, thank you.</p> <p><img src="http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag110/r_i_c_236/Netley_Panorama1_zpsprygivcr.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Thanks Andrew,</p> <p>My current film still on the Bolex is 100% experimental - even if I were convinced I had the exposure right. When I have processed the footage I will shoot a straight 100' using both meters, Gossen & Sekonic, then compare results. I have a lot of confidence in the Sekonic already, indoors it is simplicity itself to operate (touch wood), in the field anything can happen of course. It has been a long haul to calibrate the zoom to the camera but I am going to stick with it until I get consistent results.</p> <p>At some stage I am going to need some fixed reflex lenses as well - for informal, hand-held filming, and I guess only the vintage lenses made for reflex H-16's will do? I have used c-mount video lenses on the Bolex but you can never be sure whether they are <em>exactly</em> right for the flange depth on the lens socket.</p> <p>The advantage of a video lens for me is that you can close the diaphragm to zero, so do fade outs & ins.</p>

<p><em>Update:</em> it's working - I got the ISO at 20 and the jog wheel is allowing me to run up and down the speeds till I come to 1/30, then the Sekonic computes the f-stop. <em>It works!!</em> :D</p> <p>Next question - are we sure ambient is the way to go for landscape photography / motion picture filming please? For example, how could I 'ambient light' a mountain range? Extreme example perhaps but it illustrates my unease abandoning reflected for ambient metering. I took two reading for an outdoor subject today, one ambient, one reflected - same subject - and they were quite different.</p> <p>Many thanks btw :)</p>

<p>Thanks Andrew,</p> <p><br /> What confuses me is that I'm working with a fixed frame/shutter speeds of 16fps & 1/45 respectively. I have frozen the ISO at 25 (or 20 as you suggest) but I cannot fix the shutter speed at 1/45 or 1/30. Which is what I want - the ISO/ShSpeed/Ap triangle - because then the Sekonic ISO+ShSpeed would tell me which <em>aperture</em> to set: which is what I want.</p> <p>I just re-set the ISO to 20, no worries.</p> <p>So given that 1/30 sh speed & ISO 20 must be static for me, is there no way I can lock these values on the Sekonic to determine my aperture? Otherwise the ambient light will be telling me to constantly re-set my shutter speed to match an optimal light/ap/ISO triangle, expecting me to modify my shutter speed of 1/30, which of course I cannot do?</p> <p>Sorry, this is a learning curve for me! :)</p> <p>Wait up - the jog wheel was locked - game changer!! :-o</p> <p>photo.net/filters-bags-tripods-accessories-forum/00H3au</p>

<p>Thanks, the ISO no problem, I set that to 25 in about half a minute after studying the manual. My problem is, is that I need to set my f.p.s at 16 or my speed at 1/45 or thereabout. How do I do this please? The manual just says <em>depress mode button to select ambience then revolve jog wheel beyond 8000 then you will find fps values,</em> by my jog wheel goes from about 60 to 250 then back to 60 again, round & round in circles - f/s, fps, s or m characters never showing on the lcd display.</p> <p>Been at this for about 2 hours now.</p>

<p>Sekonic L-358</p> <p>Help.</p> <p>How do you set for f/s film speed please - no matter how many times I depress the Mode button and revolve the Jog Wheel all I get are 'T' values, the character f/s does not appear, (neither 's' for seconds).</p> <p>Seems to be defaulted to 'T' values - how can I find the corresponding f/s and 's' values please?</p> <p>Apart from that it seems to work :)</p>

<p>Thanks Craig,</p> <p>I use a variable ND on the lens with a minimum value of ND2. The filter slot in the Bolex now has an empty filter holder in it. I use the variable ND filter to allow me to fade out shots and make lap dissolves, since I have no variable shutter angle control on this 56 model, produced in 58. Once upon a time there was a variable diaphragm made to compensate for the lack of variable shutter, but I have never seen one available and in any case, I doubt it would fit the 17-85mm zoom. Prior to the filter I made lap dissolves with my hand over the lens :-o</p>