ramiro_elena

<p>Hi Marc ;-)<br />Can you test other optics to rule out the lens? <br />I am not familiar with your back but it sounds to me it could be the most probable cause. Can the dealer offer to test a different back?</p>

<p>A friend of mine just got one last week. It lacks some of the features seen on pro cameras but it is not that hard to level the standards correctly. You should be using a focusing loupe to make sure focus is right. I have used all kinds of ground glass and you can always see a focused image no matter how bad it is. <br> Try to align the standards first. Note that the bed of the camera has three positions where you can lock the front standard. One of them (i am guessing the middle one) is intended for your 150mm.<br> You should focus with the aperture wide open and once you've composed the image you can close it to obtain more depth of field (f16)</p>

<p>I am afraid you're right David. Although I did check with a small ground glass placed onto the film plane and it seemed to focus correctly without the two shims.<br> I'll develop a roll to see if it worked as it should.<br> Thanks.</p>

<p>A while back I took apart my Mamiya 105mm f3,5 to use on a DIY project.<br />I now find myself wanting to use it on a Mamiya C330 and cannot remember how a couple parts go back in. Specifically the thin spacers in the viewing and taking lenses.<br> I haven't been able to find a schematic on how it is mounted to the lensboard. Only a 65mm schematic.<br> Could anyone share or point to an schematic for such lens?<br />Or maybe just tell me where the spacers go?<br> Thanks!</p>

<p>You could probably just make it fixed focus with such depth of field.</p>

<p>You're out of luck. That is a common and known flaw in the Arca-Swiss 4X5 F-Line. Apparently half of their batch came out like that. There is only one solution (could be painful and expensive): Divorce.<br> The community is with you though :)</p>

<p>I'd try to get a partial refund. Shipping that thing back is going to cost you and you will end up paying for shipping and no camera.<br />Figure out how much a replacement part will cost you and ask the seller to subtract it from what you paid.<br> I just bought a Polaroid Big Shot and the seller put it in a box with four foam peanuts. It arrived destroyed so in order to get a refund PayPal wanted me to ship the camera back which cost me around $30. I got a full refund but I had to pay to ship a broken camera.<br> (My two cents... hmm $30)</p>

<p>Creo que en large format photography forum hay un hilo con números de serie. También está Bob Salomon.</p>

<p>I am reporting this for bragging! LOL<br> ...30 bucks!!! Jesus!</p>

<p>Hi Bill, this is a very old post but very helpful to me right now. I am having the exact same problem you describe.<br> Before I get to it I was wondering what setting did you have the M/A ring to. Does it make a difference? I would think M would make more sense to see if the mechanism was engaged while doing the repair.<br> Thanks!</p>

<p>Funny you would mention Yongnuo triggers since that's exactly what I have Daniel.<br> For this job I was using Hensel strobes that use a dedicated trigger though. It all went pretty well after all. I had no time to test the gear Ray, so I relied on the rental place knowledge. The body is a bit cumbersome to use. I rented a 80mm LS Schneider lens that was not compatible with the body. The rental shop didn't bother to explain so I spent a couple hours trying to make it work. I ended up using my 80mm f1.9.<br> Capture One has a very useful tool to check focus which saved my ass. The detail with this back is simply monstrous. I can't wait to see the prints (4x4 meters.)<br> Next I use a back like this I will make sure I get a newer body.</p>

<p>Thanks y'all. That was my reasoning. The radio trigger is probably 3v at the max (2 x AA batteries)<br> The doubt came while reading the manual since I have never read such warning in other manuals. Also, I rented a Phase One IQ180 worth 17.000€ and I am not willing to see that blow up under my nose.<br> The sync cable would obviously be more dangerous anyway.<br> Thanks again.</p>

<p>Hi,<br> I am about to do a job with a Mamiya 645AFd and while looking through the manual I read something about flash sync that got me a little confused. So just to make sure...<br> Can I use triggers on the hotshoe of the Mamiya? I am going to be using a Hensel dedicated trigger to use with their strobes.</p> <p>I know it might seem stupid but the manual talks about being careful when using non Metz flashes.<br> Thanks!</p>