PuppyDigs

Most of my clones have been fine—STK, Wasabi, etc.—just not as long lasting as the OEM versions. Out the gate, I had a new STK clone overheat and swell up in an Olympus Pen. It was really tough getting out! Sine 2003, not a single of my OEM batteries have gone thermal.

If you tested them and the results were good, that's all that matters. I've owned the Extender 1.4X since 1995 and it works perfectly with my newer L zooms and telephotos so I was never inclined to upgrade to the II and III updates. I seem to recall, the II update had the same optical design but slightly improved coating and flocking to reduce reflections from the shinny CMOS on digital DSLRs. With that said, my old 300 4L and 1.4X are pretty flare and ghosting proof, even with Hawaiian sunsets. Not sure about the III update but I'm sure there are minor tweaks to be had if you need to squeeze out every last detail for huge prints.

If you shoot video, the T6s has movie servo, allowing continuous focusing and tracking. Also works in LV. As a frequent YouTuber self shooter, movie servo made my life a lot easier. Prior to movie servo I prefocused on a broomstick here I planned to sit and play guitar. Now the camera locks on my face like glue and I can move around without worrying about losing focus.

Most of my lenses need some AFMA and that's one of the first things I check with new gear. Typically AFMA is in the +-2 to 5 range. Even +-2 makes a visible difference with large aperture lenses.

Yep, it only opens my old 20D and 40D files. The 10D thumbnails show but can't be opened.

I'm impressed, it opens my old 10D, 20D and 40D RAW files. And the default profiles are very good. Much better than I was getting from ACR conversions. Canon finally fixed the magenta cast in 40D files!

<blockquote> <p>A second and more minor issue is that when I plugged my SD card into my card reader it appeared on the monitor screen but the Canon utility that usually appears to let me download the pictures never came up. I recently updated my iMac to OS X 10.12.1 Sierra from 10.9.5. Do I need anew utility version or what?</p> </blockquote> <p>I think Apple is expecting you to use the Photos app for uploads (I disabled it on my Mac). However, you probably need to Canon.com and update to the greatest version of EOS Utility. Canon may need a few months to catch up to the latest OS update. Canon now requires inputting the serial number from your camera to start the download. Once installed, I think you have to set a preference on EOS Utility to automatically open when you insert your card.</p> <p>Or you could just drag 'n drop the file from your SD card to a chosen folder on your Mac. That's my preferred method.</p>

<p>I owned a 17-55 IS USM for years and sold it after buying an 18-135 IS Nano-USM last Spring. I don't know how similar the Nano-USM is optically to the older 18-135 but I find my 18-135 and 17-55 to be very close in terms of sharpness. At F8 there is certainly little to no difference. However, the 18-135 is a lot more flare resistant than the 17-55. On the other hand, the 17-55 has less barrel distortion at the wide end. So take your pick. However, if you need to shoot at F2.8 a lot, the choice is clear. Otherwise, it comes down to preferred zoom range and weight (the 18-135 being lighter).</p>

<p>80D video can be displayed on iOS devices via Wi-Fi during recording so I'm sure the 5D4 will equal or one up it. Does eat batteries like crazy...</p>

<p>I jerk, slide and sway my cameras all the time while shooting stills and video and the cameras and lenses are fine. You shouldn't have any problems as long as your rig doesn't hit the deck or fall in the drink.</p>

<p>I like the 10-18 IS STM: optically as good as my 10-22 USM but half the price. The down side is it has a really slow aperture and flimsy build. However, often you can get a reburb with full warranty at CanonDirect for under two Benjamins, so that almost makes up for those shortcomings.</p>

<p>I too live in the tropics and I don't think heat or humidity are the direct causes of finishes turning to goo. It's probably something on your hands interacting with the finish. I've never than a lens barrel go to goo but several of the grips on my cameras went bad. Basically my sweat acted as a solvent. </p>

<p>Usually Canon refuses to repair salt water damage since they can't guarantee their repairs (due to the evasive nature of salt water damage. If you have electrical contact cleaner laying around, zap some on the switch and work it. I've had a few come back to life after the contact cleaner treatment.</p>

<p>It's usually faster to set HSS on the flash unit itself. My 430EX II and 220EX both have a physical switch on the back panel (H with electric bolt icon).</p>

<p>If it works, you might get $75 for it if lucky. I couldn't sell a 2011 Olympus Pen for $75 with extra OEM battery. I figured technology was too old and nobody wanted it. No problem selling my newer cameras.</p>