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proust

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  1. <p>Thanks for your responses. I would like to have an extra copy of the files, besides having them on the SDHC cards. I'm starting to look at options like netbooks or tablets to allow me to do that. Would a tablet device do the job? i.e., can I connect a memory card reader to it, copy files over to the tablet and then copy from tablet device to an external hard drive? I've never used a tablet device so not sure what it's capable of.</p>
  2. <p>Well, I should have clarified: I will have intermittent internet access as I will be spending some time in the towns near the parks in between trips; I just won't have access to a computer.</p>
  3. <p>Hi,<br> I will be on a national parks roadtrip later this autumn for 2 months and am wondering what the best way is to store/backup photos. I will have a Canon 6D with a 32GB SDHC and a 16GB SDHC card, but no laptop. I would like to be able to store the RAW files online preferably but not sure if I can use the 6D's wireless capabilities to do that? I know it's hard to backups w/o a computing device but thought I'd check.<br> Thanks.</p>
  4. <p>thanks for your responses...<br> JDM - The AF issues I read about are regarding the AF just stop working, seemingly randomly. A lot of people report this issue, but like you said, if this lens sells a lot, the % might be smaller. <br />btw, I've actually had the Polygamy porter during a Utah trip last year...it's pretty yummy! To answer the question raised on the bottle - I'm saving for a 100mm 2.8 macro :)<br> Lex - good point. looking back, most of my photos are around the 18-40mm range.<br> Stephen - good point about panos!</p>
  5. <p>I'm considering purchasing either the 50mm 1.4 or the 85mm 1.8 lens. I have a 7D and a 6D (with the accompanying 24-105L lens) and do landscape photography. I was originally interested in the 50mm 1.4 because of the dreamy bokeh effects it can create for landscape photos.<br> However, after reading about its AF issues, I was starting to have second thoughts about it and started looking into the 85mm lens instead. They're both around the same price but my concern with the 85mm is the longer focal length. I often photograph on trails etc and there's not much room to move back. Getting the 50mm would be great on the 6D and it would act like an 80mm on the 7D so I get the benefits of both lenses by buying the 50mm...but I don't want to deal with potential AF issues and repairs etc...done that before and would like to avoid it as much as possible. If I go with the 50mm, I will buy a lens hood to try and keep the lens safer during storage (based on what I've read online).<br> I'm mostly thinking out loud here but any ideas are welcome :)<br> Thanks.</p>
  6. <p>Thanks all for your responses. William W - you correctly articulated what my goals were :).<br> I realize that no one-size rule/guidance works for all photos and there is a subjective artistic decision to be made about the DoF/focus point...I'm more interested in learning the technical aspects of how best to use DoF in the right context so I have options available to experiment with. I hadn't used the hyperfocal DoF calculators and will try that out. Thanks again for your replies!</p>
  7. <p>I came across this article that talks about focusing on a subject that's 1/3 into the scene to achieve best overall DOF.<br> http://www.apogeephoto.com/feb2005/jaltengarten2_2005.shtml<br> I realize this is more of guidance than a strict rule but I'm trying to understand what it means to focus on 1/3rd into the scene if I'm using AF. (I have a Canon 6D + 24-105 lens). Do I select one of the 11 AF points such that one of the points happens to lie 1/3rd into the scene? I can understand using MF and focusing 1/3rd into the image but not sure how it works for AF. This question is more directed towards images where there isn't a distinct point of focus...if there is a distinct point that I want to concentrate on, I can likely get that by using a specific focus point.<br> As an example, here's one image where I'd like to apply this 'rule' but didn't: <br> -<br> If I wanted to achieve best DOF, should I have been focusing approximately near the woman at the left? (seems to be 1/3rd into the image).<br> Thanks.</p>
  8. <p>Thanks all for your replies. It helps to get alternate perspectives!<br> I think I'm going to keep the 7D and sell the XSi. I would still have the EF/EF-S lens issue but that would be true with keeping the XSi too. Keeping the 7D gives me better ISO capabilities and pixels than the XSi. Selling both 7D & XSi doesn't leave me with any backup camera which I would like to have, even though it would provide for a newer lens.</p>
  9. <p>Sorry, I clarified in my later post that it's landscape.</p> <p> </p>
  10. <p>Thanks for your responses. I should've clarified that by nature photography, I meant landscape. Also, by 'lower quality' of the XSi (entry-level DSLR), I was referring primarily to resolution and ISO noise (ISO especially for star photographs)<br> That being said, I was curious why you suggest I should get a 2nd 6D. What would I do with 2 cameras that are the same? Willemse, you said that I can rationalize the lenses to a single format...do you mean I can get rid of EF-S lenses and keep only EF lenses? But still, what would I do with 2 of the same cameras? :)</p>
  11. <p>I currently have 3 DLSRs - Canon Rebel XSi, 7D and 6D. I want to keep the 6D and sell one of either XSi or 7D. I can't decide which one, though. I realize this is a personal decision but I'm looking for alternative perspectives on how to approach this. I primarily use these cameras for nature photography and sell prints online through a POD service.<br> I feel like keeping the XSi and selling the 7D - that gives me a small, lightweight DSLR to carry around in situations where I don't feel comfortable carrying the 6D. If I break/lose it, it's not as big of a financial damage as the 7D. Selling the 7D will raise more cash than the XSi and I can use the cash for future gear. However, the XSi is of much lower quality than the 7D, so...<br> However, I also feel like keeping the 7D is a good idea as it's a great camera and can be a good substitute for the 6D, quality-wise (which the XSi isn't). However, selling the XSi isn't going to raise as much $ as the 7D. I can definitely use the extra $ to buy a new lens.<br> Any perspectives on this subjective topic are welcome and appreciated :)</p>
  12. <p>Barry - so you edit with the files off the portable USB3 drive or you copy them over to the internal HDD/SSD before editing them? I don't know what editing software you use (I have PSE 11) but have you run into performance issues if you edit off a portable USB3 drive? My concern with backing photos off to an external drive when done editing is that it breaks the PSE organizer's catalog file structure if the files keep moving around.<br> QG - it doesn't look like T440s supports Ultrabays....I'm looking into other options for having a fixed 2nd drive so I don't have to deal with unplugging/plugging it every time.</p>
  13. <p>Thanks for all your replies. I should've clarified that I have a calibrated external monitor and won't be using the laptop screen for that.<br> <br />My question is regarding how best to manage the photos between the internal SSD and the external HDD as I work on them. I have Photoshop Elements (and plan to upgrade to Photoshop later) and currently my entire catalog of about 300GB is on the laptop's internal HDD (with backups on offline external HDDs).<br> If I split the files such that only actively used files are on the SSD and then once I'm done editing, they move to the HDD, that means that I'm constantly moving files around from SSD to HDD and changing the catalog in terms of the file locations. Also, if I'm traveling with the laptop and don't want to bring the HDD with me, I will have to copy over the files from HDD to SSD and back to HDD.<br> <br />Is this the typical workflow or am I missing some part of it? <br> Thanks for your replies....it's helping me make a decision :)</p>
  14. <hr size="1" /> <p>I'm looking into purchasing a new laptop and am leaning towards the Thinkpad T440s:<br /> 4th Gen Intel Core i5-4300U Processor (3MB Cache, up to 2.90GHz)<br /> • Windows 7 Professional 64<br /> • 8G 4G Base + 4G (1 SoDIMM)• 500GB Hard Disk Drive, 7200rpm<br /> • 16GB M.2 Solid State Drive Single<br /> <br /> One of the questions I have is regarding the hard drive. I could spend more and get an SSD for improved performance but I'm not sure about it. A 512GB SSD adds $450 to the total cost and I don't think I can afford it. I could get a smaller size SSD (like 250GB) but I would run out of storage space pretty soon. Or, I could get a 500GB HDD but that's not an SSD, so I lose out on performance...<br /> <br /> My question is - how important is it to have an SSD? (especially if I later upgrade to photoshop. I currently have PSE 11). Can I get an HDD for storage and an SSD for programs etc...if so, what kind of setup would that be (like an external HDD?).<br /> <br /> I'm curious to know what your editing computer is setup like. I need Win7 on a laptop with a budget of about $1100, if that helps narrow down the requirements...<br /> <br /> Thanks so much.</p>
  15. <p>Thanks for your reply...I could ask PPA but that would be positive referrals only - not very helpful to get a balanced perspective.</p>
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