Jump to content

phil_d

Members
  • Posts

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. <p>Hi, I just got a nFD 50mm 3.5 Macro, and there is some fungus behind the first front element. <br> This lens does not have a name ring that you can unscrew. <br> Instead it has a conical shade that goes into the lens. The shade does not budge when you try to screw it off. Some Posts talk that this shade has 3 clips that you need to unclip from the front, but I have no luck unclipping the Hood. <br> It looks like it is glued. <br> Now I know that some nFD use a lot of polycarbon and Loctite. <br> Is there any way that I can remove the shade without damaging it or the front filter lens ? <br> (The picture below shows the front filter ring with the Shade. <br> I have tried prying a plastic hotel card and shape it like a half circle and push it down between the shade and lens filter ring, to unlock the clips, but a Credit card is still too thick. <br> I started carefully using a tiny screwdriver, but I hear crunching noices, just like dried cristalized glue releasing between 2 stuck pieces. I do not want to damage the Filter ring either, So I don' t Know what to do next. <br> I did not pay much for the lens, but I know its a great lens, and like to get rid of the fungus... </p> <p><img src="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/91Xifq66apL._SY355_.jpg" alt="" width="318" height="355" /></p>
  2. <p>I just got a response back from the great Gus, Gus Lazarri. on this type of lens. I thought it was worth while mentioning here in this thread.</p> <p>He seems famous and very professional about his SLR repairs. <br /> Tthis is what he emailed me when I asked him if it was worth to let him do a CLA on the Canon Nfd 200mm f:2.8 IF.</p> <p><em>First of all thank you for finding me.</em><br> <em>The following email should answer </em> <em>most of</em> <em>your questions:</em> <em>As for the canon NFD 200mm f2.8, because of the extensive use of a combination of polycarbonate and adhesives (loctite), this version is extremely difficult to conduct a tear-down. </em> <em>Parts may be required if some of the tear-down results in parts breakage/damage; problem is that Canon no longer sells parts for this 200mm.</em><br> Gus seems to be a very busy man also, as his website http://tlccamerarepair.homestead.com/ states that they are not taking new repairs until oct 2015.He was however still responding to the email I sent him. I would take his advice. It seems that these lenses are very hard to repair and if you don't have the spare parts... I would take the loss and leave mine as it is or buy a different one if its too far gone. My Version seems to have a lot of Haze in the Middle elements, and would be hard to repair. Maybe the use of the adhesives itself used on this type of lens is generating the Haze over time.</p>
  3. <p>Is there a way to take an IROOA lens hood apart? i.e take chrome part with the lens clamps off the black hood ? <br> Its predecessor ITDOO has a retaining ring that you can unscrew, but I am not sure if the IROOA can be disassembled. <br> I don't want to damage the Chrome ring, I just want to be able to Clean and restore the clamps on it. <br> I have been able to do this with the ITDOO but not an IROOA. </p> <p>Anyone ?</p>
  4. <p>Frederic, I like your pic, I miss the Crocus' here in South Carolina, but then I might be biased, as I am originally from Belgium... <br> Although, after having planted some crocus 6 years ago, this year was the only year I actually saw them coming up again. I had already given up, thinking Deer or Squirrels had feasted on them. I think the colder weather this year helped.<br> ( I once planted 500 Tulips, and could not even dig them back up. they just evaporated ... or were eaten by Squirrels) </p>
  5. <p>Canon T90 has what is called A-TTL, the T90 internals are Compatible with most EOS compatible SLR camera's of the first generations. It is not compatible with E-TTL though such as the DSLR's. <br> The native advertised Flash was the 300TL. Its still around, and mostly its the "battery corrosion" that will cause them not to work (as with most Flashes, people tend to keep the batteries inside them and forget about them). <br> Some accessories of EOS are compatible with T90 such as Hot shoe offline adapter cables as HSA-2,<br> ML-3 ringflash (on the condition that you can find the conversion lens adapters for the macrolite), Natively, ML-2 ringflash was advertised. Find the specimen that come with the lens adapter rings... otherwise its a hassle to find them seperately. These work both in TTL mode in conjunction with additional Off/on-camera A-TTL compatible flashes. </p> <p> </p>
  6. <p>The price of servicing /CLA for a lens usually exceeds the price of these legacy lenses.... better to hunt around and find the better specimen than to have to service a less perfect specimen. <br> My better lenses are the ones I bought myself in a camera store new, or Bought/received second-handedly from people I knew directly, or from a renown Camera store. <br> My Suggestion : get the word around that you are into photography. you would be amazed who will "donate" you their dad's Voigtlander camera or who "trust" you enough to sell you their collection of "leica Camera's and Lenses, that were factory CLA'D in Germany". (Maybe i was just lucky...) <br> Before I decide to buy a lens, I try to find the better legacy lenses with reviews in the 9 to 10 range, as far as quality goes. (pentax forum has a good database on this, even if it focuses more on Pentax Mounts) does not matter what brand, as long as they score high. Then I make sure I do not buy less than EXC or 95% of original condition with only small dust specks, no fungus or haze. <br> I have bought many lenses that were marked on ebay that were marked as "used" when they should have been "repair or parts" due to fungus and haze. In those cases, I usually call in my buyers Money-back Guarantee or return possibility to get a refund. (it is good to add some pictures which show imperfections) Also, sellers that do not accept returns usually can not be trusted in my experience. You still get your money back guarantee, but end up with a pile of free junk that you can't resell. Those buys are usually hit or miss. </p>
  7. <p>Using Panasonic GX1 with EFV for my FD lenses... If you are used to your FD bodies, you really miss the microprism to focus approach. but EVF can not swivel left/right , only up, not down.. sometimes awkward to position yourself, and you can forget external flash other than slaves with EVF installed. <br /> LCD works better in close focus on a tripod, but you got to blind frontal and side light in a studio setting to see the lcd properly. LCD here too can not swivel in relation to the Camera. <br /> Not related to wat I mention before here, but I Will purchase a speedbooster in the near future for FD to M4/3..<br /> I might consider another digital camera later, but it needs to have Image stabilization inside the camera, a way to use External flashes and EVF together, and I hope someone invents a smart way to focus a la Microprism on a mirrorless...</p> <p>I do love the ability to play with different lens mounts on my M43 though... not so sure about the 2x cropfactor.. </p>
  8. <p>I am planning to buy a Canon FD to M4/3 Speedbooster. <br /> I have quite a collection of FD lenses. But I also want to use my other legacy lenses as close to their original focal length. I decided 2 years ago to go digital with a M4/3 Panasonic Lumix. <br /> Finding a M42 adapter to FD is easy. So are the Adaptall to FD and the T-mount to FD. <br /> But Finding the following adapters is a real pain ( based on Lens Mount flange length, following should exist without the need for extra Glass :</p> <ul> <li>Leica R lens (47 Flange distance) to Canon FD camera mount (42)</li> <li>Canon EOS Lens (44 mm ) to Canon FD (42) ??</li> <li>Exakta/topcon (44mm) to Canon FD</li> <li>Olympus OM (46mm) to Canon FD</li> <li>Tamron Adapt-a-Matic (57mm like Adaptall, exists, but hard to get at a reasonable price) To Canon FD.</li> <li>Konica AR (40.5 mm) is shorter, but should be able to get 2mm into M4/3, similar to how C-mount can be attached on M4/3.</li> <li>Minolta MD (43.72mm )</li> </ul> <p>So far I have had Zilch luck ... Mostly its no prob to find adapters to M4/3 for the above, but intermediately to FD so I could use a single speedbooster... nah.. <br /> Has anyone found any of these needles in their haystack? <br /> Did anybody have some luck with custom made x to FD adapters from Extension tubes and or Teleconverters or Stripping camera mounts ?</p> <p> </p>
  9. <p>here 's some of the (new) old stuff that I plan to use... Minus a T90 which shows EEE... <img src="http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxNjAw/z/3o4AAOSwZjJU3ly-/$_57.JPG" alt="" width="1600" height="1600" /></p> <p><img src="http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxNjAw/z/3kUAAOSwZjJU3ly7/$_57.JPG" alt="" width="1600" height="1600" /></p> <p>And just this week-end , I bought a Utilitech Pro 10W 700 Lumen LED light at Lowes for $19.99. Figured that would work great as backlight. (the thing works on 110 or 12 Volt ) . The guy at the store said they had to cut the cords of the Store sample , because it was blinding people... </p>
  10. <p>I personally have a Panasonic Lumix GX1, and have many legacy M42 and FD / FL lenses. (and of course, I have all FD bodies except for the F1's ) <br /> I recently made a great purchase on the Auction site. I plan to use the new equipment to convert all my slides. I once bought a Minolta Dimage Scanner back in the early 200, but it was warping the film. I used it mainly to scan my APS films with a special Adapter.<br> I Never got to scan my traditional 35mm Negatives and slides yet. I did a lot of research on different methods of scanning, and I think the above combination of Macro 50 3.5 and 25mm extension with Auto Bellows and 35 duplicator seems my way to go. <br /> Maybe for some of the best shots, I would try the Stitching approach... <br /> I might also try some M42 flat field enlarger lenses and my Macro-Elmarit R 60mm 2.8.</p>
  11. <p>According to the canon lens hall, the <br> New FD200mm f/1.8L was only introduced as of November 1989. (this was the last introduction of a New FD lens I can find. <br> As of the latest production date, I would think that might be the lens with production dates into the 90's . <br> Canon had promoted the T60 when it was introduced in 1991 (3 years after introduction of the EOS mounts) by selling it in a kit form, usually with the FD 35-70mm f/3.5-4.5 or the FD 28-55mm f/3.5-4.5 zoom lens, depending on which market it was made available at a special price. (for these markets, the EOS camera's were just too expensive)<br> So, It could be highly likely that one of these "kit" lenses would have the most recent production date. <br> Actually, the T60 itself was not produced by Canon ,but By Cosina, based on their own CT-1 Chasis. Maybe T60's aim was also to sell remaining FD lenses canon still had in stock ??? <br> I seem to remember that the T60 was sometimes also sold with a tokina ATX lens... ( I still see a lot of these combo's. Makes sense, if canon wanted to get rid of their last T60; Tokina was making some of the EOS lenses for canon... so it does seem reasonable to find the combo between the 2 ). the T60 was only marketed for about 2-3 yrs. <br> There were quite a number of FD-type camera's and Lenses from Canon on sale at different camera stores. You can still find adds for numerous FD-stuff ( Mostly F1, T60 ,New FD lenses and accessories) in ads in the September 1993 issue of popular photography... <br> But I think by then these were already New Old Stock... <br> By March 1996, you can hardly find any NOS in the ads any more. </p> <p> </p>
  12. <p>I have mostly FD lenses with my panasonic GX1, but one thing I do not like is the 2x factor, as It makes it hard to find really wide lenses. <br> I am trying to find a good way to use M42 lenses and other mounts. <br> I have a few Tamron adaptall's with FD mount. And some M39 and M42 lenses which can be easily adapted to FD mount first. <br> I decided to standardize on those lenses that can be adapted to FD first, the next purchase will be a speedbooster for M43 with FD mount. So then I can use all above mentioned lenses in a more close-to original way.<br> I am selling some stuff on auction site, and if I get lucky enough, I might buy me a Leica version too of the speedbooster, as I absolutely adore my Macro Elmarit R 60mm.. I just have not found a way to use it with its original focus length on my digital. <br> I am keeping a Leicaflex just to be able to do that. <br> Like others, I am looking to find that needle in a haystack : Pentax K lens to Canon FD mount Camera adapter. .. </p> <p>Oh and I still keep my faithful AE1, and recently added a perfect T90 to my collection. I haven't been in a dark room in about 30yrs, but I might give the BW film development another try , and use My FD auto bellows with 35mm duplicator to make multi-shot negative copies and stitch them together digitally. </p> <p> </p>
  13. <p>Check if the out of focus is across the board, or just at infinity. If its at infinity, you may have the lens Focus alignment checked and adjusted (its usually loosening a focus ring screw inside the lens barrel, adjusting it, and re-tighten it.<br> I have a Leica Lens, and after I dodged it slightly, it went out of focus on infinity, but worked fine in other focus ranges. <br> Please note that the adjustment should be left to a professional if you are not experienced with this, as you need to disassemble some lens parts to get to the focus adjustment. </p> <p> </p>
  14. <p>Is the T90 Compatible with the ML-3 ringlight ? The T90 brochures only mention the ML-2, so I want to be sure before I invest in the ML-3. </p> <p>Are there other TTL Flashes which are compatible with the T90 besides the Speedlite 300TL ? </p>
×
×
  • Create New...