peterbcarter

When you are standing in front of your "scene" and deciding how you would develop the film, when shooting it a certain way, developing becomes an art and not a task. Anyone can do it, but only a skilled few do it well. It can be more than dipping film into solutions. Be greater, make it an art.

Stoeckler test

My experiance is you can easily go a full stop over or under withiut too much issues. That's 80-320 range. Develop as normal.

It's more likely these cameras fell off a truck and had their serials changed to sell them.

Note that when under developed / under exposed, marks like these tend to show up more often. How did the negs look to your nakid eye?

Just read my first reply. It tells you why you probably will never have to.

It's been included in most fixers for 30 years. Hypoclear is nothing more than sodium sulphite, used to absorb the extra unbound hypo. If it is in the fix, you are covered. That said, it was important for prints and not so much film.

A professional photographer from the film era would not likely see any reason why not to shoot c-41; they never processed it themselves. I do much more with chemicals and their processes than I would with photoshop. With every edit in PS you make, you destroy a bit of the original photo. The big difference with XP2 and the like, is it is a monocromatic dye ment to be post in b&w. A colour C-41 film has extra colours and a base to contend with. Special optical paper needed to be used to handle the low contrast image that would result if regular paper was used. Scaning can correct, but has the look of the enevadable compromise. XP2, and variants, tend to be sharp but have an otherwise flat cold look.....similar to digital monochrome. I prefer the abundance of variations I can use with b&w film and chemistry combinations. Dust is dust. Colour has just as much as b&w. Digital ice just automates it's removal. I do a better job and prefer to remove it myself. Same effort with c-41 or b&w. And then there is the hipster factor. What some see as beauty, I see as imperfections.....and vica-verca.

I keep a jug of pool PH- (sodium metaborate) to clean my bottles. Just a tablespoon with the water is all you need. TD-16 is supposed to be an improved D76. I would start with D76 times.

I would also look at any firmware update.

I still have some in my freezer. But I will miss it when it's gone. I find orwo UN54 fits the old world charm of PlusX. It's not available in all formats so the Ilford FP4 is a good alternate.

I once owned a Nikon 24-120/F4. It was liberated from me and I have missed it ever since. It is not an exceptional lens but is a great one. I never felt the need to take it off my camera, even though I always carried primes too.

Yep

I don't think it will be a real problem. The quality of the sensor (and camera) should be much better.

You can stabilize at any time, and as often as you wish. The only pain you will face is you cut your negs, and you will have to hang lots of strips up to dry. You don't need to rewash. Just let them soak a little longer.