peter_schauss2

<p>Just seeing what I can do with Film Photography Project's BW 200 film. They say that it is surveillance film made by Foma. It seems to do very well in Diafine.</p><div></div>

<p>Experimenting with a cheap point-and-shoot that I picked up last summer.</p><div></div>

<p>I have an F, serial # 687xxxx with a TN Photomic prism on it. I found an FTN prism for a good price and would like to use it on my F. It works, but is a rather loose fit. The Cameraquest site says that I need to replace the name plate on the body so that the clamps on the front of the prism will latch properly. What is the difference between the early and late F name plates and there any other problems I would encounter trying to fit the FTN prism to my camera?</p>

<p>The Film Photography Project is selling some film that they call FPP EDU bw 200 (35 mm in 100 foot rolls). They say that it is surveillance film made by Foma. Here is a sample, metered at 200 and developed in Diafine. This is a scan of a 5x7" print.</p><div></div>

<p>On the early Nikkormats (FT, FTn, FT2), the resistor under the speed setting ring wears out causing the light meter to be jumpy. I have read that they fixed this problem by using more durable material for the resistor on the FT3 and later FT2s. I have one FT2 with a solid meter but the meter on my FT3 is jumpy so there may be other factors at work as well.<br> The FT and FTn used a mercury battery for which you can substitute a 675 zinc-air hearing aid battery. Later Nikkormats used a silver oxide battery. </p>

<p>Took my "new" F with Photomic FN to the local high school football game to test it. Used a period correct Nikkor-Q 135/3.5.</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks for all of the advice. I was able to unscrew the cap using a screwdriver with a 1/4" blade. Luckily there was no corrosion (and no batteries). I put in two 675 hearing aid batteries, shimming the first one with a 1/2" id o-ring. I added a bit of aluminum foil between the second one and the cap to make a good electrical contact. To test the meter I shot a roll of Double-X at 650 and another roll of Eastman Double-X at 200 (developed both in Diafine). Negatives were well exposed, consistent, and easy to print.</p>

<p>I just got this camera. The metering head is the one with the battery cover on the right side, next to the shutter speed dial. The marks on the battery cover look like the previous owner struggled with it a bit and I am not having much luck unscrewing it with a coin. Which way does it turn and what is the best way tool to loosen it? The battery cover on my Nikkormat FT has an arrow showing that you turn it counter clockwise to remove it. Is this model the same?<br> Thanks,</p>

<p>From a local organic farm.</p><div></div>

<p>The Highbridge, NYC.</p><div></div>

<p>This is a dredge working off of the beach at Robert Moses State Park.</p><div></div>

<p>I picked up a nice Nikkormat FT last week. Here is a shot from the first roll.</p><div></div>

<p>I am using AI lenses. There is a second scale with values ranging from 1.4 to 5.6 next to the film speed scale. It looks like the intent was to have you line up the maximum aperture of the lens with the film speed.</p>

<p>On a Nikkormat FT (not FTn) do you set the film speed by lining up the mark for the maximum aperture with the mark for the ASA setting of the film that you are using?</p>

<p>There are some threads on this subject, with examples on the Rangefinder forum:<br> <a href="http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=151181">http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=151181</a><br> <a href="http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=52426">http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=52426</a></p>