Jump to content

peter_de_waal

Members
  • Posts

    258
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. <p>I also am very fond of the KMZ universal turret finder. It's framing is a bit narrow, but at least it's bright, has frame lines, and you will get what you see. And it's cheap...</p> <p>Unfortunately the KMZ turret finder is designed for a camera with a tall top-plate such as the Kiev 4AM/Contax II. It is also perfect on the Leica M2/M3. It is only very slightly too-high at close-distances on the Contax III & Kiev-4 (with meters)</p> <p>The KMZ turret finder works perfectly on the Zorki-4K, Zorki-6 & the FED-2.</p> <p>The KMZ turret finder won't work on Leica screw-mounts or the Contax IIa/IIIa because the top deck is too low. You will have parallax problems at close distances. The Leica IIIg is a little higher, so it's slightly better.</p> <p>The KMZ turret finder cross-hairs are around one RF patch too-high on the Leica III/IIIa/IIIb/IIIc and Contax IIa and two RF patches too-high on the Contax IIIa.</p> <p>The KMZ universal finder also has a narrower foot than standard, which can be a problem in some cases like Leica III's without springs in the finder shoe. With some cameras I have to exert a slight sideways pressure on the stock KMZ turret finder to keep it aligned to the lens axis.</p> <p>A Zeiss-Opton 440 turret finder ($$$) or 85/135 Torpedo finder ($$) is needed for LTM and Contax IIa/IIIa. Even so, I still prefer the KMZ turret finder over the 440 as the 440 lacks frame-lines. The Zeiss-Opton 85/135 Torpedo finder can be used without problems on the screw-mount Leica. If you already have Leica's SLOOZ (28mm) SBLOO (35mm) and an SBOOI (50mm) this combo works well.</p> <p>Another option is to remove the shoe from the KMZ universal turret finder and replace it with a custom-made flat plate. (don't forget the counter-sinks for the mounting screws). The replacement can also be made slightly larger to suit Leica finder shoes. The standard KMZ shoe has a step of around 4mm. Replacing it with a flat plate will drop the finder height enough to correct the parallax issues with Leica screw-mounts and Contax IIa's.</p> <p>p.s. I wear glasses too, but don't have a problem with scratching because I had my prescription made up in Zeiss glass lenses with T* coating.</p><div></div>
  2. <p>Anthony, you need the "1120 S49" Hood. "Zeiss Ikon Stuttgart" "Germany".</p><div></div>
  3. <p>Ressurecting an old thread. I've just been given an AGFA Arcus II. I know the history of this unit, one owner, hardly used since new. I plugged it in and the carriage moved to the start postion and the lamp lit up. So far, so good. I had another old AGFA scanner for years, a 10-bit StudioScan II, 400x800 d.p.i. Very good unit within it's limitiations. Ancient AGFA Fotolook ran fine under Mac OS 9.2.2 on a G3/400, a G4 Quicksilver 2002/933 and a G4 MP Quicksilver 2002/1.0 GHz.<br> So now I just have to find the Arcus II plug in for FotoLook...</p>
  4. <p>http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00SVtt</p>
  5. <p>I have three Meopta Opemus enlargers that can handle everything from 1/2 frame 135 to 6x6cm with a wonderful moving-slide mask system that makes cropping simple. My Opemus III was $10, the Opemus 4 with 50/4 Nikkor was $30 and an Opemus 5 with a Meochrom Color Head was $20. The Opemus 4/5/6 models have a drawer for filters, with the Opemus III you have to hang filters under the lens using a Kodak or Ilford filter holder system.<br> Meopta also made a wonderful 6x9cm enlarger- the Magnifax. I would like one.<br> I have a 1940's Kodak Precision for 6x9cm and Leitz Valoy I and II's plus a Focomat Ic for 135. Information on Leitz enlargers is easily found online.<br> I also have a Reid & Sigrist copy of the Valoy I with a 50mm Taylor & Hobson Ental lens. Better made than the original. Apparently during WWII the Brits had a supply problem with Leitz...<br> These are all well-made machines and available for peanuts these days.<br> Here's a link to James Ollinger's Meopta guide:</p> <p>http://www.jollinger.com/photo/enlargers/meopta.html</p> <p>a guide to enlargers in general:</p> <p>http://www.jollinger.com/photo/enlargers/index.html</p> <p>and a page on the Kodak Precision's:</p> <p>http://www.bnphoto.org/bnphoto/KodakEnlargers.htm</p> <p>Meopta were sold in the US, but were wildly popular in the UK/Australia/New Zealand due to their high quality and relatively low cost. You may be lucky enough to find a Meopta Magnifax or a Leitz Focomat in a skip...</p> <p>All of the old Meopta's I've seen still have wiring with intact insulation, but the Kodak and Leitz models from the '50's usually need re-wiring. I am a qualified electrician, but really it's just wiring up a lamp - so just follow how it was done before, point-to-point.</p> <p>Now is a great time to be finding this stuff. So much darkroom gear is being dumped. Just buy a few you like and try them out. You will soon amass all the trays, timers, mixing vessels, etc. you need. In another 5 or 10 years enlargers will be hard to find - unless you dig up a landfill.</p>
×
×
  • Create New...