peter_arbib1

1967 BP Nikon F (DE-1) 1979 Nikon F2 (DP-1, DE-1, DW-1) F2 and DP-1 has been overhauled by Sover Wong, DP-1 also has new CDS cells. I shoot TMax 400 in both.

What a shame? for what?

@dennisbrown, IE: Nikon snap-on hoods on my old Nikkors... NO WAY, Nikon did make regular screw-on hoods also, but are harder to find.(I have one for my 1972 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor S that is Nikon made for that lens). That is all I use on my older non AF Nikkors. Filters are OK, I shoot B&W only, (color is digital), But the palm of my hand in front of my lens when I am walking about is also good protection also, and a hard bump on my hand won't leave broken hand scratching my front element, as a shattered filter can. (A habit from the rangefinder days to protect the shutter from Sun Pin-hole damage)

And who makes FLOWER HOODS for Primes? generic sized in different mm screw-ins.... for 24mm, 28mm, 35mm, 40mm, 50mm, 85mm, 105mm.... FF lenses

I use Back lens caps for storage.

I only use PRIMES, no need for FLOWER hoods, BTW, Flower hoods are made to save costs. the design is the least amount needed to give minimum lens shading from light. that is why the side pedals are so small to prevent corner darkening so the upper and lower pedals can be made longer. Only good for short Zooms, because it allows the top and bottom pedals to be longer than a round hood on a short zoom could provide. But after about the 100mm (fov), Flower Hoods are not needed. The smaller pedals make sure the corners are not darkened, but they are only effective for shorter focal lengths.

You're on! I cup the palm of my hand over the front of my lens, when just walking about. And I don't let my camera "swing about freely" around my neck. I buy all my lenses used, and I check the REAR element first.... That is where a scratch CAN affect IQ, a lot more than a front scratch can. The front element and block is for gathering light then guiding the light to the REAR Block., The REAR Block focuses the light on the image plane, therefore any scratches on that can affect IQ in sharpness. The FRONT element scratches affect flare mostly, a good lens hood will offset that.

Neither Don't use filters.... I do use lens hoods always, ONLY OEM Nikon Hoods! Screw In type, Some were hard to find because Nikon liked snap-on early on, and made some screw-on for popular lenses. The Screw-on for my 1971 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor S was a hard one to find. Because collectors buy then up quickly. Nikon Hoods are fluted, not straight.

I keep it VERY SIMPLE..... Nikon F or F2 (with DE-1 pentaprism) I carry One Lens on the camera: Nikon: 24mm, or 28mm, or 35mm.... depending on my mood TMax 400, 3-5 rolls Minolta III meter, or I use "Lightmeter" on my Android... paid version NO CAMERA BAG EVER!

@orsetto Thanks for such a thoughtful reply, You have touched on all the different issues w/o a doubt. I have used Fuji as my digital before, I had the XE-2 for a few years, then went to the X100T. So, If I decide to go with a digital again, I'd get a used X-Pro 2 for my Nikkors. A used Nikon DSLR is too crippled. The X-Pro 2 has great "focus peaking with a magnified image" and the live view is great also. I have picked my Nikkors carefully, for performous and sharpness, not speed in most cases. It is good to have a couple of fast lenses in usable focal lengths though. (35mm f/2 "O", 50mm f/1.4 "S")

Are you using an enlarger to make a traditional wet print? Or are you going to scan the frame and print on your computer printer? With an enlarger, you will need some kind of roll-film holder setup.... To hold the uncut roll. With a scanner, you can just place the film across the scanner glass and close the lid. having the film roll rolled up on each side outside the scanner. Make sure you can scan a negative/positive directly on the glass

That is all I use, 1:1 previews with Smart previews also.....

I do need to get a larger external drive.....I have a 2tb (3/4 full, mostly photos) now, but, I'll get a 8tb or 12tb My Library has 75k in photos. (but I keep the RAW, Lr JPG, and Ps JPG if I require Ps editing I thought there was a "delete in XX days... but I can't find it.... Yes, rebuilding ALL previews would a LONG TIME! Best leave it alone.......

From what I understand, Lr builds these files when needed, So, if I delete them, Lr should rebuild them when I open a folder that I haven't edited for a long time. I do have a finished JPG of all the edited files. I could recover over 6GB of space by deleting them. Folders that I haven't used and may not open them in Lr for a while, I see no reason to save these previews.......My external hard drive has 485GB free on a 1.8TB drive. Not sure if setting a 30day limit in the setting is long enough. Advise please.

most likely.......