AgBr

The user manual for the Gossen Lunasix 3S says it has a CdS sensor. (Manual found on Gossen's site, in German)

Many thanks for the help. I bought a CW Winder, and got it modified. It now works like a charm with both the 503CW and the 205FCC. I have linked to some pictures of the winder before modification and a closeup, and after modification, also with a closeup. Also a photo that shows the difference between the winding assemblies of the 503CW and the 205FCC. Best, Peter

Not sure if it's against forum policy to revive old threads, rather than creating a new one. If so, I apologise, but I am interested in the above reply. If I understand it correctly, this modification was only made on CFi lenses which already existed in the CFE version. So, for example, it would be possible to "upgrade" a Sonnar f/4 180mm CFi to CFe, since it also existed in the CFE version, but not an F-Distagon f/3.5 30mm CFi, because no CFE version was made of that lens. Is this correct? Curiously, I have just seen an eBay listing for a Makro-Planar f/4 120 mm CFE which has been "downgraded" to CFi by removing the electronics. I don't know why this was done. Best regards, Peter

I hope all went well and that you managed to get some nice shots after the hike! I just finished reading Ansel Adams's autobiography and would love to visit Yosemite some time. Best, Peter

Thanks to all for the nice comments, and yes, I can see the arguments in favour of DIY processing film. I have developed negatives on a few occasions, but really not that often. I think I have always been reluctant to get into this part of film photography because of the fear of messing something up in the process and ruining or severely damaging the images. You only get one chance for each roll of film, whereas once you have a good negative you can re-do and perfect prints as many times as you like (or as long as you have money to buy more paper + chemicals + have access to a darkroom). Other excuses are: my local lab guy does a good job and is fast. He doesn't scan negatives, but has teamed up with someone who does. I get a roll of film processed and scanned in 48 hours and pay 10€. If I were to DIY, I'd have to factor in the time I'd spend doing the work myself + buy a decent film scanner and, again, spend time scanning negatives. I would never be able to afford the kind of scanner used at the scan & print lab (Fuji Frontier SP-3000). Best, Peter

Many thanks! Well, the camera is a Hasselblad 205FCC with Planar 80mm f/2.8 lens. I am travelling right now, so I can't check my notes, but it was shot close to wide open, on Ilford Delta 400. The camera was standing on its back, on the floor beneath the sculpture. I don't process my negatives myself, so it is a great inspiration to see how you and other users exercise control over contrast and other qualities by varying development times and using different developers. Best regards, Peter

"Confluences", seen from below. Sculpture by Olivier Strebelle, European Parliament, Brussels, Belgium.

There sure is! Many, many thanks. How did you find the userid? Peter

Ed, many thanks. Good advice. I have never tried an EL body, but they definitely seem to be very sturdy. Moreover, they are not necessarily that expensive in the second-hand market, as far as I can see. However, I was hoping to get a winder for my 205FCC, since no motorised 200-series body exists. The CW winder seemed to be an interesting possibility (provided it can be modified) also because it can be remotely triggered. Thanks again for your reply. Peter

At some point last summer (2016), I came across a German eBay member offering one or several Hasselblad CW winder(s) modified to function on the 200 series Hasselblad cameras while, at the same time, retaining full operability on the 503CW and 503CXi. The seller also offered to do this modification for those already in possession of a CW winder. I am therefore sure that the modification was done on the winder, not the camera. I would like to contact this eBayer to ask him or her to do such a modification, but the listing has ended and I can only find a few lines of Google search text, in German, as a faint trace of its existence: Unfortunately, the link just takes you to a page with a bunch of other items, which have nothing to do with the winder or the seller, as far as I can tell. No indication of the user name or any other details about the eBay member who listed the modified CW winder. If I understand how Google works correctly, you cannot add more lines of text to your search results. My question: does anyone have *any* clue as to who it might be, or who I could contact? I realise that using a CW winder on, e.g. a Hasselblad 203FE or a 205FCC, has been discussed in several posts, on several forums over the years, because A) the F winder is considered to be less attractive/practical than the CW winder and B) it had been done for a special, NASA version of the 203FE - the 203S ('S' for Space?). I saw an explanation on Flickr where the user somehow modified the winding assembly of his 205TCC to take the CW winder. If possible, however, I would like to avoid making changes on the camera. As always, many thanks in advance for your help and advice, Best, Peter

Thanks, again, for all the explanations and suggestions. For B/W, I use Ilford Delta 400 90% of the time. If I understand the online data sheet correctly, the filter factor indicated by the manufacturer can be followed for this film. Also, TTL metering will yield correct results in most cases (again, according to Ilford), which I can get from the Hasselblad 205FCC. Shutter speeds can be adjusted in half-stop intervals (like the aperture), but in the automatic modes, increments of 1/12 EV-step are used from 1/2000s to 16s. The latter seems to be exposure modifications on an insanely detailed level, which I don't even know if the shutter's accuracy (or lens apertures' precision for that matter) can meet. Peter

Thanks a lot for the helpful replies. The filter looks rather light/pale and definitely not as deep yellow as the Y52 Tamron filter I use on my Rollei 35S (30.5mm, made for their 500mm mirror lens). It doesn't look at all greenish either, but I am not an experienced observer of filters. I suppose it is safe to assume, or very likely at least, that half a stop of exposure compensation should be used. Best, Peter

I just bought a yellow filter for my Hasselblad V system, in the B60 mount. The filter rim says: 1,5x Y – 0,5 (4) How should these codes be interpreted? I looked up the list of Wratten numbers, but they certainly don't correspond to the info on my filter. Did Hasselblad produce different versions (e.g. light yellow / deep yellow etc.) or is there just one filter for each colour? Many thanks in advance. Peter

My doubts/questions exactly! Peter Adler

With all due respect, this does not answer my original question. What I asked for in this thread were volume data. I haven't got that. I don't doubt that Kodak Alaris, Ilford or other manufacturers are correct when they say that sales are rising, but they don't seem to provide numbers. As someone pointed out, quoting a certain yearly growth rate is not useful if you don't know from what level the business is growing. The best I have found is this quote in an online article from Time dated 26 January 2017: If it is an aggregate number for all manufacturers, the total film market today amounts to roughly 19.2 million rolls per year. But I would still like to see a further breakdown of this overall figure. Peter Adler