patrick_regan1

Hi all, I'm trying to make my X-T3 act like, well, every other camera I've owned with an LCD back. Basically, I don't want the LCD coming on unless I explicitly press a button to turn it on - the menu button, the play button or the "Q" button. I can't find a setting that does this though! I either get EVF only, or I get some combination of EVF when you hold the camera to your eye, and then LCD when you lower the camera. The standard five options for viewmode aren't cutting it. Is there a custom setting I'm missing somewhere? Thanks!

Just occurred to me: is this something I should start a poll for? Is that how we effect change here at photo.net?

Hi all, We've got Canon, Nikon, Sony, Minolta, others... but no forums specific to Fuji gear. How come? Is there a formal process to request one/some? I would think at the very least there would be a Fuji X forum? Thanks! Patrick

Hi all, I stumbled upon this blog post regarding converting a 220 film back to a 120 film back (or vice versa): Convert Pentax 645 645n 645nii 220 film back to 120 film back – Pentax 645 Tl;dr: there's a simple plastic part inside held on by a small screw. Flip the piece 180 degrees, and it changes the type of film the back accommodates. Can any of you 645 shooters attest to validity of this modification? Is it really just that simple as reversing one simple internal part? Usually when something seems to good to be true, it usually is. Thanks!

<p>Hi all,</p> <p>I want to push a roll of Delta 3200 two stops in HC-110, but I can't find any info out there on developing times. (I see a lot of posts like "whoa, I did this! Check out the results!" but with no times specified :P).</p> <p>Anyone have suggestions? If I go with the very rough rule of thumb of "add 4.5 to 5 mins per stop," that would put me at 17.5 to 18 minutes with Dilution A if I use the info found in the Massive Dev Chart. Does that sound close?</p> <p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Hi all,</p> <p>Are there any obvious/simple reasons why I'd have inconsistent flash triggering with the PC Sync port on my 80mm f/2.8 Planar lens? About every second or third trigger of the shutter results in no flash firing. It seems to be more prevalent at the faster shutter durations, but only slightly; I get inconsistent flash firing at every shutter speed from bulb to 1/500. </p> <p>I'm having zero issue with my 150mm f/4 Sonnar lens. I get consistent flash firing every time. This makes me think the issue is part of the lens' shutter mechanism, and not part of the camera body's shutter triggering mechanism. But I won't rule out any culprit just yet. I admittedly have very little knowledge of how these lenses are constructed (mechanically).</p> <p>Just looking for any tips, ideas, thoughts on what might be an obvious culprit or a simple fix before I shell out to have the lens CLAed.</p> <p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Hi Bill, Joe. Thanks for the suggestions. I should have mentioned in my original question: my meter isn't triggering my flash. My meter is at my subject (just under her chin); with the meter in "flash" mode she hits the meter read button, and I hit the flash fire button on my camera (which, yes, is triggering my flash remotely, but via radio and not IR or pre-flash).</p> <p>So, I'm leaning towards a timing issue, too - but I think perhaps the issue could be that my flash duration might be too short for the meter to pick up? But if that were the case, why would I be able to meter down below f/5.6 in my dim basement, but not outside? </p> <p>I'm going to do some additional tests, but it <em>seems</em> like I'm not doing anything wrong (i.e I'm going through the proper motions for metering a scene). I'd like to test my flash using both ports available (i was using the higher-output "A" port while outside, but I suspect I was using the lower-power "B" port inside. How this affects flash duration I do not know) . I'm also planning to rent a different meter to see if I get the same results/feedback. Other than that, I'm at a loss. In a pinch I can just dial it in by eye, but I prefer the control I get when knowing specifically what my lights are putting out.</p> <p>Thanks again for the suggestions.</p>

Hi Gary, Thanks for the suggestion. The manual and Sekonic tech support seem to indicate otherwise, but even if there were a threshold, wouldn't it be two stops lower than what I'm metering (i.e. my ambient reading of f/5.0)? I still don't see why my "floor" is f/11.

<p>Forgot to include: I verified with Sekonic that, in flash mode, my meter will function from f/1.0 to f/128.9 in 1/10-stop increments.</p>

<p>Hi all,</p> <p>I'm in the process of learning how to meter for off-camera flash using my manual strobes and a Sekonic L-508. I set up a very simple one-light portrait setup in my basement studio where the ambient light was pretty dim. I had no problems metering my one strobe. When I moved my setup outside into overcast skies, my meter doesn't report anything under f/11. I'm probably missing something extremely obvious. Any suggestions?</p> <p>My setup: one Elinchrom Quadra head on a stand about 6' away from my subject, camera left. Meter in incident mode (the L-508 has a spot meter, too; I triple-checked it was in incident), dome raised, in flash mode. With the dome pointed at my camera, I hit the meter button, trigger the flash to take a reading. I can adjust my flash power all the way down to about f/11, and then if I drop it further, the meter reading drops straight to 0. Flash power at this aperture is about 50%, so I've got some room to lower power output further. Taking an ambient light reading from the same location shows about f/5 - about two stops lower than the flash.</p> <p>What am I missing? I'm assuming it's user error on my part, but could I have a defective light meter? I'm not playing with any of the fancy bells and whistles of the Elinchrom system; I'm not exceeding my camera's sync speed. All readings were done at ISO 100, and a shutter speed of 1/200.</p>

<p>What purpose do the 36 mm x 36 mm marks serve on a 6x6 focusing screen? </p> <p>More specifically, I'm looking at getting a split ring/microprism screen for my 501c. The 42215 is the obvious choice, but I'm not having much luck finding one on eBay. I have seen a couple 42260 screens that have the split ring, microprisms, and then these marks at 36 mm by 36 mm. My immediate thought was that these lines would interrupt my ability to compose the types of shots that I take. What am I missing? Who are these guide marks for?</p> <p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Thanks, Colin. So is the short answer: one must buy a minilab in order to get the SP 3000 scanner along with it (at least if one wants new equipment from Fuji)? Or, alternatively, roll the dice on ebay for a used scanner that at some point has been liberated from the rest of the minilab?</p>

<p>This may be a very naive post: Fuji Frontier scanners - what are they, and are they even in production anymore? I look on Fuji's website, and find info for their Frontier developing and printing stations. Is the mythical scanner built into these workstations?</p> <p>A little more background: I've been shooting more and more 120 lately. I'm doing my b&w developing and scanning at home, but sending out my color to a local lab in Seattle. I'm researching other labs to use, and the more popular ones I find usually have a page or more discussing "should you have us scan with the Fuji Frontier or the Noritsu???" It seems one can actually buy a Noritsu scanner (their website is horrible, but at least I can find the actual product on it). Fuji, on the other hand, no info on stand-alone scanners.</p> <p>Ultimately, I want to price out equipment for low-volume (retail) scanning and printing.</p>

<p>Hi Marc,</p> <p>Thanks for the detailed feedback. Shortly after I posted my initial question (minutes after, actually), I finally pulled the trigger on a new Quadra ELB 400. It arrives today, and I feel like a kid on Christmas morning! I do - or would like to do more - outdoor photography (hiking, climbing, mountaineering), and I wanted the lightest-weight, most rugged battery strobe I could get. It was a tough decision for the ELB 400 vs the B2, but the hi-sync (much different than HSS) sold me. I'm looking forward to using it for on-location, outdoor portraits. Your post above has me feeling better about my decision; I tend to avoid buying new gear at all cost, and when I do its after months of research and weighing the pros/cons.</p> <p>If I wrote Contax 645 previously, I definitely meant Pentax. I'm only going off of about 30 minutes of Google searching, but the mechanical finicky-ness of the Contax has me steering clear. I don't have the patience to treat my gear with white gloves; the Pentax seems more of the workhorse. And: leaf shutters! Still, there was a used 4/50mm CF at the local camera shop for a very reasonable price... Hmmmm.</p> <p>Beautiful images, too. Thanks for sharing.</p>

<p>Thanks, all, for the great info. I think you've all helped me answer my overarching question of: are the folks who shoot film using OCF to get their images? And the answer seems to be "yes." The kit that William shows above doesn't look fundamentally different than what I'd expect to see in an all-digital photog's kit; great visual answer to my question!</p> <p>What got me going down this rabbit hole is some research I've been doing regarding simplifying my digital workflow. I've been looking at Lightroom presets like VSCO and Mastin Labs. Mastin has a ton of great blog articles for "hybrid" photographers (those that shoot both digital and film; maybe I'm old-school, but I just call people who make still images "photographers" regardless of the medium...but that's another forum post altogether!). A lot of the hybrid photogs are shooting film for the portraits portions, sending them off to labs like Richard or FIND for processing and toning, and running the digital files from the reception through their film-mimicking presets. In their how-to posts, I never seem to see them using OCF for the portraits. That got me wondering if these folks are counting on natural light alone when they're using film, or if their how-to vids are leaving out lighting setups simply for simplicity (and propaganda - buy our presets, and they'll fix everything!).</p> <p>I've been shooting digital for some time now, and I'm at the point where I'm ready to invest in some serious lighting gear. The answers you guys have provided above are helping me narrow down my potential shopping list; I want a kit that I can use with both my digital setup and my (more modest) film setup. I'm still on the fence about shooting weddings, but I posted in this forum (as opposed to, say, studio) because I really like on-location portraiture, and the creativity that demands (while retaining a bit of control and structure). I'm not a huge fan of the run-and-gun style that the reception seems to require.</p> <p>For what it's worth, my MF kit at the moment consists of one Hassy 501c with a couple backs, a 2.8/80, and 4/150. I added a 45-degree prism finder, and my speed and hit rate has increased remarkably over the waist-level finder. I'd like to add a microprism/split-ring viewfinder to increase my speed further still. For OCF with my MF, I'm using Cowboy Studios radio transmitters and Lomopro manual speedlites. It's cheap, simple, and gets the job done. I will definitely do some homework on the Bronica setup. I'm leaning Contax 645nii at the moment. I _think_ I want the AF option.</p> <p>My digital rig is all Canon with relatively fast glass (2.8 zooms). I'm considering adding an EOS-1v since the lens mounts are the same. A 1v with the 1.2/50 and/or the 1.2/80 I think would serve me well for shooting film at the reception.</p> <p> </p>