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patrick_giagnocavo2

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  1. Just getting into researching LF photography, and between Photo.net and this other site, was getting all the info I needed. Now however, when I try to go to the site, all links are dead and no amount of URL manipulation results in a page load. What a shame if it were to simply evaporate from the web!
  2. <p>I would recommend a camera body that has built-in shake reduction (usually abbreviated IBIS, in-body image stabilization). That way, no matter which lens you attach, you get the benefit of IBIS.<br> <br />The Panasonic LX100, truly tiny in comparison, has the ability to set 1:1 (square) mode, though you lose a few pixels in resolution - some reviews say 3088x3088, others say 3400x3400 . With the ability to look at the big image on the LCD screen, it may prove useful for you, as it will be approximately the same size as what you would see via the WLF.</p>
  3. <p>I would second the use of a TLR. <br> The Mamiya C330 is heavy and bulky, with the C220 weighing less but about the same size, but still able to take interchangeable lenses. Two caveats - the film transport on the C330 can work, but in a way that causes the film to buckle, reducing sharpness; and, some of them were heavily used. Even the C220 might be too heavy for you. If the size and weight don't bother you , they are good cameras overall.<br> I would suggest either a Rolleiflex, (most expensive option) or even a known-working YashicaMat, Autocord, or Ricoh. The completely manual Ricohflex with the geared lenses is very light and compact, has no double-exposure prevention, and you have to use the "red window" technique to advance the film; but the lens itself is excellent (Tessar design) and will give you the same big 6x6 negative.<br> If you can, try to handle a few of these cameras beforehand. If you are talking to people (vs being completely invisible and unknown while you take a picture with no one else noticing you), what camera you have in your hand is not likely to matter too much ; and the use of the waist-level finder, with you looking away from the person, seems less "direct".<br> One other option - get a sturdy monopod for your RZ67, make sure it is firmly attached, and heave it over your shoulder to carry it like an old-time photographer (or hobo).</p>
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