pat_cahir

Hi guys, At this point I am trying to determine if my current model is faulty. Andrew, I download your file and expected there is visible banding. How likely is this in the real world though? I'm not sure if Windows 10 supports 10 bit colour. Do any consumer AMD or Nvidia GPUs support 10 bit output? Presumably, there would be still be a benefit in using a monitor such as NEC MultiSync PA271Q in 8 bit mode? Also, have you any experience with this monitor - Eizo ColorEdge CS2730 27 inch LCD Monitor? It has the distinct advantage of being compatible with my X-rite i1 Display calibrator. The most noticeable failing of my current monitor is "IPS glow" in the corners which can be seen even in daylight. Have you experience with NEC other monitors such as the MultiSync EA271U? Is the quality control good in your opinion? Thanks.

Hi all, I'm having trouble calibrating this monitor at a hardware level and I'm trying to determine if it is defective. Does anyone here own this monitor? Have you managed to calibrate it at a hardware level? I get visible banding/artifacts in Photoshop when I calibrate it at a hardware level (particularly in dark parts of the picture). When I use ione Profiler, the artifacts are no longer visible. Also, is this test reliable? - Single-page version Under the gradient test, I can see vertical lines. Thanks.

Hi everyone, Thanks for responding. Glenn, your solution might work for me. I also strips of film to scan and negatives. It's a pity Canon don't make a dedicated slide copier like Nikon.

Hi all, I'm looking to buy a slide duplicator to use with my Canon 5D Mark II and Canon EF 100 mm macro lens. The Kaiser duplicator is compatible with the 58 mm thread of my macro lens and it is recommended to use a focal length of between 80 to 100 mm. However, the unit is listed as being 125 mm in total length and the minimum focusing distance of my macro lens is 310 mm. I suppose I could find extension tubes or DIY solution but I would rather not have to do this. Does anyone have experience with a setup like mine or alternative recommendations? Thank you.

<p>Jochen & Tim. Thanks for the info. Normlicht are not cheap but I'll keep an eye out on ebay. GTI list used items (UK) such as the PDV-1 for £85. Shipping would be expensive though. I'll contact Solux and see if they ship internationally. <br> Thanks.</p>

<p>Hi Andrew.<br> I'll have a look at your video, thanks. I don't consider my prints too dark compared to my monitor. But I do see a difference when comparing colours which is why I am interested in lighting reproducing daylight. Of course it could also be down to the quality of the profiles. I am using Epson Premium glossy & Archival matt paper profiles. Increasingly, I am using Permajet papers though. <br> Thanks.</p>

<p>Hi Andrew & Bruce.<br> Thanks for responding. I have considered Solux bulbs before but I live in Ireland. If I buy 4700K bulbs, do I have to calibrate my monitor to 4700K? Are they very hot and they safe to use in general lamps?<br> Thanks again.</p>

<p>Hi.<br> I am printing on an Epson R2880 printer and I'm trying to get a better match when comparing the print to the screen (soft-proof) in Photoshop or Lightroom. I am looking for a simply and cost effective solution. When I print at night, the colours are worse because of the inaccuracy of the light in my room. Under artificial light, it is hard to see B&W colour casts (Colour mgt. versus advanced B&W)which are easy to spot in daylight. <br> Does anyone have any experience using the following products? <br> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007NN0IPE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1K97RKEDF5RIW<br> https://www.amazon.co.uk/Color-Confidence-CCON450-GrafiLite/dp/B001546RNO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482057357&sr=8-2&keywords=colour+confidence<br> Many thanks.</p>

<p>Andrew,<br> One last question. Can you recommend a good lab that follows colour management best practices?<br> I am based in Vancouver but a lab in the US that does mail order would be fine. Most labs don't detail their work flow in the manner you recommend.<br> Thanks again.</p>

<p>What happens if I convert to paper profile and then sRGB?<br> I could try converting the file to their paper profile next time and see if print matches any better.<br> It's not so easy to find a lab that details it process in the recommended manner.<br> What about profiling the LED panel? Is that part of the problem?<br> <br /> Thanks</p>

<p>Yes, the lab does recommend srgb and RGB 1998 for their other printer.<br> So if I convert my file to their paper profile it should be provide a good match? Previously, I was only using the profile to soft proof but converted the file sRGB. Is that the problem? <br> Thanks.</p>

<p>Hi,<br> Thanks for the responses. Andrew, what are your thoughts about the suitability of i1 Display 2 calibrator? I'd rather not have to buy a new device unless necessary.<br> I only have it a few years so I'm not sure about fading filters. I did run idiagnostics and the device passed so the hardware seems to be okay.<br> I'd rather not lower the luminance as I use my monitor for other things where 90 or 100 would be quite dark.<br> The thing is with my previous setup I got a good match without much fuss. (the whole point of colour management).<br> I have paper profiles which I soft proof with. I don't have output profiles for conversion or is that the same thing?<br> Many thanks.</p>

<p>Hi all,<br> <br /> I recently got some prints done and they are not matching my monitor.<br> I have tried to calibrate my monitor several times but I have failed to improve the profile.<br> The colours on the monitor look pleasing to me. However, the prints are too dark and there is a colour discrepancy between the monitor and the prints. The colour cast varies depending on the image. I previously got prints that closely matched my monitor. At that time I was using a different monitor and lab. The lab I am now using is supposedly colour managed.<br> My old monitor was a HP 2475w which used CCFL lighting. Is the i1 Display 2 capable of calibrating LED monitors? I did read this article by Andrew Rodney (http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/why_are_my_prints_too_dark.shtml) and I do plan to purchase a Solux Halogen blub.<br> Settings:<br> Native: white point<br> Gamma: 2.2<br> <br> </p> <p >Luminance: 120</p> <p>Thanks for your help.</p>

<p>Hi Leo,<br /> <br />You would be better off buying a larger capacity SSD and at least one large internal conventional HD. You system would be faster with a separate drive for all your photos, etc.<br /> Custom build PCs are much better and fun to build also!<br /> Good luck</p>