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parv

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  1. <p>I seriously doubt, but would be happy to be proved wrong, that the video camera you want exists. <p>You could look for used one (at B&H, Adorama, KEH) for Canon HF G20 (should go for G30, really), Panasonic HC-V750 or -V770 with <i>some</i> manual control over the settings.
  2. <p>For nobody else had brought it up apparently, a heavily modified, including <a href="http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/10/nikon-d5500-peltier-cooler-astronomy-less-noise/">not so efficient cooling to reduce noise, Nikon D5500 is available</a> apparently for ~US$2400 .
  3. <p>To shoot yourself in a low contrast situation with autofocus ... <ol><li>arrange for a small, bright flash/torch (call it "signal flash"; few of the popular brands are Maglite, Fenix, Surefire);</li> <li>set up the (photography) lighting as desired;</li> <li>set the camera to AF and & on timer, connected via wired or wireless remote firing mechanism;</li> <li>turn on the signal flash; move it, facing the camera, to align with your eye;</li> <li>while the signal flash is on, fire the <i>timer-delayed</i> shutter;</li> <li><i>optional:</i> move your hand & the signal flash out of the way;</li> <li>freeze (or, not if that's what you really want) 'til the shutter actually fires.</li> </ol> </p>
  4. <p>Minolta 5400HS was <i>the</i> flash of the time for the AF system. The camera's built-in flash can trigger it wirelessly but the normal sync speed is measly 1/45 s. I don't remember the sync speed if 5400HS would be triggered by 3600HS or another 5400 HS. <p>Some of the (decent) AF telephoto lenses are: Tamron SP 90mm f/2.8 macro; Minolta 85mm f/1.4, 100mm f/2.8 macro, 135mm f/2.8, 200mm f/2.8, 200mm f/4 macro, 300 mm f/2.8 & f/4, 400mm f/4.5. Then there is the excellent Minolta 80-200mm f/2.8 (black; "HS", for high speed, designated one in white). <p>(You may like to liberate me from my Minolta 80-200mm f/2.8 HS (with another XTsi as the lens cap) and Minolta 50mm f/1.7 in lieu of reasonable compensation.-) <p>If you want another autofocusing Minolta film camera, get a Minolta Maxxum (aka Dynax) 7 or 9.
  5. Recent round up ... Caught in the act: How and why you should invest in a dash cam, http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/09/caught-in-the-act-how-and-why-you-should-invest-in-a-dash-cam/
  6. <p>I have seen "Make page ..." popping up on various sites/pages in Chrome(Android), which is desirable on some pages. On others, results are worse. <br> I would think that the pop up started, well, popping up recently due to changes by Google, than due to (non)changes here or elsewhere.</p>
  7. I did not see "Update your personal information" link as the "Your Personal Information" section was collapsed before I noticed that that was so. Much appreciate your help, Bob.
  8. <p>The FAQ (http://www.photo.net/frequent-questions#password) -- accessible after logging in on the right hand side listed under section "FAQs" -- mentions that one can change email address thus ... <p> <blockquote> To change your photo.net email address or password, log in to photo.net (http://www.photo.net/register). If you are not automatically redirected to your workspace, click on the "My Workspace" link in the upper right of the page. You will find a section called "Site Bureaucracy" in the top right of the page. There, you can choose "Change my password" or "Change my email address". </blockquote> <p> ... but I do not see any section marked "Site Bureaucracy" or any link or text mentioning change of email address under "Account Options" on the right hand side. <p>How do I go about changing my email address?
  9. The photo attached shows the letters on sleeveless shirt to be in plane of focus. That would be for the letters provides the most contrast for autofocus to, well, auto focus. Keep the most important point -- be that face, ball, clothes -- in focus as subject is moving. Yes, at f/2.8 not everything would be sharp enough due to lack of depth of field. Mind that DoF is also affected by the distance from the subject: closer the subject, lower the DoF.
  10. Reuters should just provide cameras with baked-in JPEG settings, so that no two photos taken in the same time & space would differ. Asking only for JPEG file is really not going too far from JPEG file generated from raw file, as far as the concern of manipulation go. When I first read the OP I thought that the requirement was for faster results. Reading the article I saw the manipulation concern tossed in for extra measure. :-/
  11. Erwin, contact the moderator about the offending post to have it (re)moved.
  12. Glenn, Suze, or even Pnina E, Could you please tell us just what the context was for "4 numbers" (other than Pnina needed help with contests)?
  13. Mark, my comment about buying mine A700 was a (somewhat) tongue-in-cheek kind. Having no experience of A580 or A5[78], all I could say is buy one that suits your fancy while you are thinking about switching camera systems in far future (however you define "far" & "near" time related relative terms). If change would be in near future, I see no sense in buying any more Sony SLR equipment, of course. I currently have A900 also, which is working fine with my lenses & flash(e)s so far. I am in no hurry to switch to another system or buy another (Sony) camera (well, there is always, for reasonable length of time, KEH & B&H). And Sony's (lack of) future plan about A mount system don't affect me any in that regard.
  14. Sadly A700 did not come up with (user controlled) micro-adjustment, unlike A900 & possibly others. There are 3 screws at the bottom, turning each in a methodical way bit by bit would allow to adjust the focus. (Search Dyxum.com for the methodology.) Things is if you would adjust the focus for the Sigma lens, then what about the focus with rest of the lenses? Could you try focus of your lenses on somebody else's (Sony) camera(s)? (Psst; would you be interested in buying my A700 for US$ 170+shipping (from Hawaii)? :-J )
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